FrankieG

So I took your advice about the hard stopping and ordered a duel diaphragm booster and new master cyl. for a 95 XJ to convert the single diaphragm on my 94 XJ. The difference I see on the booster is that the rod on the 94 has a slight bend where it hooks to the brake peddle as opposed to the straight rod on the 95 booster. Can I still use this? Of course the fittings on the master also need to be changed to metric and they come in on the opposite side. I can have the new lines made up. Can these rods be swapped with out damaging the new booster? Thanks

FrankieG

It seams everyone had an opinion about this when I first posted "Cant stop my XJ" but now that i've taken your suggestions about converting to a 95 XJ duel booster on my 94 XJ it seams that no one has any comments. Did any one actually do what they suggested or was it just hearsay? THanks

freegdr

ever seen this? ...http://www.jpmagazine.com/techarticl...stem_upgrades/

Willys55

Hey Frankie, I'm sure many have done it, I have not because mine a 96.....however, you need to realize that perhaps the people who have done it are not online right now.

Is the booster rod on the 95 and the one on your 94 the same length? If they are you should be fine, may be you just have to bend the new one a little.

freegdr

Im runing the double brakes are excelent your year should be direct swap .

freegdr

different rod lentgh will only affect pedal height ,

caged

i didn't bend anything. i had to ream out the hole and grind the end flat for my brake switch, but other than that, i left the longer rod and used the new proportioning valve, just unbolted it from the booster and relocated it to my stock position near the frame just so i didn't have to replace those brake lines.
then i just bent the double flare line up to the master with my hands only because they are on the opposite side now.
had to get a new bubble flare line made up for the other one.

that's all i did. didn't bend the pinch seam as suggested.

i did it a few years ago, it still works flawlessly.

my brake pedal is a little higher than it was before, but it's easy to get used to.

AVjeeper

Hello Caged, can you elaborate on the "Proportioning Valve"?

freegdr

this your master cylinder lines go in b4 splitting to wheels follow the lines... that help

93XJLI

you shouldnt have to mess with the prop valve aside from putting new brake line (if needed) into it.

freegdr

dont have to mess with it but changing the spring does make them work even better

93XJLI

how so? if you're keeping drums out back you shouldn't mess with it. drums need residual pressure, the stock prop valve is set up that way.

freegdr

I pulled my booster off a xj 96 if i remember right just for ****s and giggles i grabbed the spring out of it . I installed the booster which worked great brakes better than ever where. One day i remembered i had the spring it had a different length than factory renix . I swapped it brake got even better than be for faster response to pedal pressure. Think it allowed more pressure to get to wheels.

caged

on the newer dual diaphragm boosters, the prop valve is bolted to the booster at the master cylinder.
on my renix, the prop valve is divorced and positioned down toward the frame.

the newer master has the lines entering on the right side, where as the renix has the lines entering on the left side of the master.

i simply just unbolted the prop valve body from the booster bracket and threaded my stock length brake lines into the prop valve where the lines ended, closer to the frame.
then the master lines, i just bent them a bit by hand just so they can fit in on the left side of the master.
i did have to get one of the lines going from the prop valve to the master made up at my local CarLine muffler and brakes. cost was like $6.00.

it's definitely not show quality, but it works.