View Poll Results: 5.5" with 33s OR 6.5" with 35s
33s
17
68.00%
35s
8
32.00%
Voters: 25. You may not vote on this poll
6.5" with 35s or 5.5" with 33s
#1
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Year: 1998
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Engine: 4.0 Inline 6
6.5" with 35s or 5.5" with 33s
Im going to be lifting my xj soon and i want to hear from people who have 33s and people who have 35s. How much of a difference is it from the 33s to the 35s. Also, how much more prone to tipping is an xj lifted with 35s then an xj lifted with 33s. Does the power really **** the bed when you have stock gearing with 35s rather then with 33s or is there not a huge difference. Im stuck between getting a 5.5 lift with 33s, or going big and getting a 6.5 with 35s. convince me to go with 35s
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Year: 2000
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Im going to be lifting my xj soon and i want to hear from people who have 33s and people who have 35s. How much of a difference is it from the 33s to the 35s. Also, how much more prone to tipping is an xj lifted with 35s then an xj lifted with 33s. Does the power really **** the bed when you have stock gearing with 35s rather then with 33s or is there not a huge difference. Im stuck between getting a 5.5 lift with 33s, or going big and getting a 6.5 with 35s. convince me to go with 35s
5.5 with 35s maybe even lower if it was me. I have 33s and cant wait until they wear out so I could get 35s and Im at 4.5. As far as gearing, I guess I will see when I get there. It will be a dog for sure but as long as it wheels in 4Lo it might work for me.
#3
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Just go With the best of both worlds 34x10.5 on 6.5. I am currently running 5.5 with 33's, but next year I plan to be on 35's with 6.5" of lift
#4
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seems like everyone who has 33s cant wait to get their 35s! im thinkin i just skip the 33s phase, you guys are doing good
#6
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eventually im going to regear, just wont be able to right away. and because i dont like tires that fill up the wheel wells all the way, i like some space in between
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Year: 93 2 door
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yeah no reason to go over 5.5"
jumping right to 35's is expensive due to building axles completely etc.
that's why I just bought some nice BFG mud terrain 33's on CL for $150. get some and beat them up then buy some nice 35's when your axles are ready maybe?
jumping right to 35's is expensive due to building axles completely etc.
that's why I just bought some nice BFG mud terrain 33's on CL for $150. get some and beat them up then buy some nice 35's when your axles are ready maybe?
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#9
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what do you mean when you say building axels. like new axel shafts? i have an 8.25 in the rear and a d30 up front, its a 99 so im not sure if its a LP or HP d30
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should be high pinion
and I mean building axles as in gears, upgraded shafts, maybe a truss if you're gonna lock it. to run 35's you'll need to beef up that D30. a lot
gears especially. you'd be crazy to run 35" tires and 3.55 gears
and I mean building axles as in gears, upgraded shafts, maybe a truss if you're gonna lock it. to run 35's you'll need to beef up that D30. a lot
gears especially. you'd be crazy to run 35" tires and 3.55 gears
#11
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yeah like i said earlier, i will regear it, but i wont have the money right away, it would be next on the list. Not planning on locking it so a truss shouldnt be necessary, and if it needs axel shafts then i could do axel shafts
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you probably wont need chromolly shafts unless you're locked.
but regearing and not installing a locker... kinda silly IMO
cant really just go out and buy 35" tires and wheel them. axles gotta come first
but regearing and not installing a locker... kinda silly IMO
cant really just go out and buy 35" tires and wheel them. axles gotta come first
#14
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why would regearing and not installing a locker be silly? And so if im not locking it i wont need to do shafts? or just wont need to do chromo shafts
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