5.3 80mm turbo 4l80e 1986 xj
11-06-2018, 10:35 AM
#91
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Year: '98
Engine: 4.0 I6
Do you have shocks for the front end instead? With the nut + stud on top. You need some with eyelets on both ends.
These might be what you need for the top if you do want to eliminate the bar-pin, which causes the bushing to wallow out over time and will clunk when going over bumps.
With some new bushings
Check this thread
https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f67/ne...nators-213243/
These might be what you need for the top if you do want to eliminate the bar-pin, which causes the bushing to wallow out over time and will clunk when going over bumps.
With some new bushings
Check this thread
https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f67/ne...nators-213243/
11-07-2018, 06:36 AM
#92
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Yea I am going to get these. It just opens up my options so much more. I sent back the shocks I ordered so back to the drawing board.
I will be ordering a new drive shaft still however with double cardan joints. I am going to remove the current one and measure tonight.
I will be ordering a new drive shaft still however with double cardan joints. I am going to remove the current one and measure tonight.
11-07-2018, 08:39 AM
#93
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So issue I noticed while pulling out of driveway rear end is not aligned. It has to be the spring perches not being in the same hole. I think I need both sides up not one so I can properly center it on the perch. Jack it up on both sides undo u bolts and then redo it.
11-07-2018, 02:20 PM
#95
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What do you mean by center bolt? I think I will have to undo the track bar on there that’s connected to the frame and the rear to properly center the rear with the new springs. The track bar was added on the old rear with the car on the ground already so I don’t think I have the needed travel to get it centered again. The right rear seems like it looks like this | \ if you can picture that. Not that extreme but I can’t pull it back enough without removing that track bar.
11-26-2018, 07:45 AM
#99
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Few updates I got the double cardan drive shaft in and it helped a lot with vibrations while driving and high speed vibrations. I am still getting a vibration at low speed but no binding. It’s only at very low speed and when I press the gas. I am thinking pinion angle still so may buy some shims for the rear to go up a couple of degrees.
My second issue that that popped up which is baffling me is the brakes. I have changed the rotors and pads and now I have no pedal. I bled the fronts thinking a small amount of air was in it. Still same thing.
So I replaced the calipers and front brake lines. Bled the brakes again and I get firm pedal when off but then I turn it on and it goes soft.
i started doing research on the matter and found a few common issues. My calipers are on correct bleed screw up.
Other than this and bleeding the brakes i havent haven’t touched anything. I will try to keep beeping the brakes but not sure it will work.
There was one one guy who had same thing as me and it was a simple as a brake pad being not in the correct position.
That got me thinking. All the videos I have seen with brake changes the pads have connectors on the outside that slide over the caliper and then one the protrudes and goes in the caliper cylinder. Mine don’t have those. My calipers also have star bit head bolts on the back of them not 14mmbregular head bolts.
I can stop but not fast and I can’t drive it as is. No brake issues prior to changing the pads and rotors. Then this **** happened.
My second issue that that popped up which is baffling me is the brakes. I have changed the rotors and pads and now I have no pedal. I bled the fronts thinking a small amount of air was in it. Still same thing.
So I replaced the calipers and front brake lines. Bled the brakes again and I get firm pedal when off but then I turn it on and it goes soft.
i started doing research on the matter and found a few common issues. My calipers are on correct bleed screw up.
Other than this and bleeding the brakes i havent haven’t touched anything. I will try to keep beeping the brakes but not sure it will work.
There was one one guy who had same thing as me and it was a simple as a brake pad being not in the correct position.
That got me thinking. All the videos I have seen with brake changes the pads have connectors on the outside that slide over the caliper and then one the protrudes and goes in the caliper cylinder. Mine don’t have those. My calipers also have star bit head bolts on the back of them not 14mmbregular head bolts.
I can stop but not fast and I can’t drive it as is. No brake issues prior to changing the pads and rotors. Then this **** happened.
11-26-2018, 09:25 AM
#100
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Originally Posted by Darthjeep14
Few updates I got the double cardan drive shaft in and it helped a lot with vibrations while driving and high speed vibrations. I am still getting a vibration at low speed but no binding. It’s only at very low speed and when I press the gas. I am thinking pinion angle still so may buy some shims for the rear to go up a couple of degrees.
My second issue that that popped up which is baffling me is the brakes. I have changed the rotors and pads and now I have no pedal. I bled the fronts thinking a small amount of air was in it. Still same thing.
So I replaced the calipers and front brake lines. Bled the brakes again and I get firm pedal when off but then I turn it on and it goes soft.
i started doing research on the matter and found a few common issues. My calipers are on correct bleed screw up.
Other than this and bleeding the brakes i havent haven’t touched anything. I will try to keep beeping the brakes but not sure it will work.
There was one one guy who had same thing as me and it was a simple as a brake pad being not in the correct position.
That got me thinking. All the videos I have seen with brake changes the pads have connectors on the outside that slide over the caliper and then one the protrudes and goes in the caliper cylinder. Mine don’t have those. My calipers also have star bit head bolts on the back of them not 14mmbregular head bolts.
I can stop but not fast and I can’t drive it as is. No brake issues prior to changing the pads and rotors. Then this **** happened.
My second issue that that popped up which is baffling me is the brakes. I have changed the rotors and pads and now I have no pedal. I bled the fronts thinking a small amount of air was in it. Still same thing.
So I replaced the calipers and front brake lines. Bled the brakes again and I get firm pedal when off but then I turn it on and it goes soft.
i started doing research on the matter and found a few common issues. My calipers are on correct bleed screw up.
Other than this and bleeding the brakes i havent haven’t touched anything. I will try to keep beeping the brakes but not sure it will work.
There was one one guy who had same thing as me and it was a simple as a brake pad being not in the correct position.
That got me thinking. All the videos I have seen with brake changes the pads have connectors on the outside that slide over the caliper and then one the protrudes and goes in the caliper cylinder. Mine don’t have those. My calipers also have star bit head bolts on the back of them not 14mmbregular head bolts.
I can stop but not fast and I can’t drive it as is. No brake issues prior to changing the pads and rotors. Then this **** happened.
11-26-2018, 11:21 AM
#102
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I suspect that perhaps you just had too much air to start with. Take the calipers off one at a time. Then pump up the calipers up, then turn the so the banjo bolt is on the top and use a caliper tool to force the fluid back. All the air will go back through the system and back through the master cylinder. Works every time
11-26-2018, 11:37 AM
#104
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I suspect that perhaps you just had too much air to start with. Take the calipers off one at a time. Then pump up the calipers up, then turn the so the banjo bolt is on the top and use a caliper tool to force the fluid back. All the air will go back through the system and back through the master cylinder. Works every time
11-26-2018, 11:40 AM
#105
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I suspect that perhaps you just had too much air to start with. Take the calipers off one at a time. Then pump up the calipers up, then turn the so the banjo bolt is on the top and use a caliper tool to force the fluid back. All the air will go back through the system and back through the master cylinder. Works every time