5.3 80mm turbo 4l80e 1986 xj
10-12-2018, 10:43 AM
#77
CF Veteran
Join Date: Oct 2013
Location: Tarpon Springs, FL / Denver, CO
Posts: 2,097
Likes: 0
Received 8 Likes
on
7 Posts
Year: '98
Engine: 4.0 I6
How long should I hold the heat there for? Like till it’s glowing?
also on the inner part of my frame on drivers side there is a stainless fuel line. Flames and gas lines make me nervous but there should be enough space to not have it get hot enough to worry.
Can you loosen them with the truck On the ground or does t need to get off the ground?
i have heat electric impact and penetrating oil. I’ll give it my best effort before digging in to it with sawzalls
also on the inner part of my frame on drivers side there is a stainless fuel line. Flames and gas lines make me nervous but there should be enough space to not have it get hot enough to worry.
Can you loosen them with the truck On the ground or does t need to get off the ground?
i have heat electric impact and penetrating oil. I’ll give it my best effort before digging in to it with sawzalls
Does it feel like the nut is spinning? If not, and it feels like you backed the bolt clear of the nut you can try using a pry bar or slide hammer to knock the bolt out of there. It is probably bound up and needs some persuasion to come through the bushing
10-12-2018, 12:43 PM
#78
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2018
Posts: 86
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
I mean I don’t think the nut is spinning I can impact t back in and then back out maybe I’ll just keep trying that. I don’t have a slide hammer but will try my pry bar.
Last resort is the sawzall and cut the bolt on the inside of the shackle and hope t just falls out
Last resort is the sawzall and cut the bolt on the inside of the shackle and hope t just falls out
10-12-2018, 02:13 PM
#79
Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2017
Location: Calgary, AB
Posts: 622
Likes: 0
Received 9 Likes
on
7 Posts
Year: 1998
Model: Grand Cherokee (ZJ)
Engine: 5.2
I mean I don’t think the nut is spinning I can impact t back in and then back out maybe I’ll just keep trying that. I don’t have a slide hammer but will try my pry bar.
Last resort is the sawzall and cut the bolt on the inside of the shackle and hope t just falls out
Last resort is the sawzall and cut the bolt on the inside of the shackle and hope t just falls out
10-12-2018, 05:17 PM
#80
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2018
Posts: 86
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
i will try both methods and report back. One of them has to work.
So spray the shaft of the bolt with fluid, zip it back in then heat only the bolt head and try and remove again?
wouldnt I want to heat the end of the leaf where the bushing is to try and help that metal expand?
10-13-2018, 07:54 AM
#81
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2018
Posts: 86
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
So I got that big *** bolt out successfully. Tried to do the rears but the hitch has to come off for me To back out the bolt. It wasn’t that bad luckily it slip right out when I got my pry bar behind the head.
Now i I need to drop the spring
Now i I need to drop the spring
10-15-2018, 11:58 AM
#82
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2018
Posts: 86
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Ok over weekend I was able to take out the spring. Had to remove shackle mount to get the spring out. I got the new spring in but the pin isn’t lining up with the rear axle hole for the leaf spring perch.
I think this this is due to the weird angles I have going on back here with the axle dropped and body jacked up on jack stand. If I drop the body and put the u bolts back on should it all align it’s self? This is the last thing that has me stuck.
Also how much do I tighten things before I drop the truck back down?
I think this this is due to the weird angles I have going on back here with the axle dropped and body jacked up on jack stand. If I drop the body and put the u bolts back on should it all align it’s self? This is the last thing that has me stuck.
Also how much do I tighten things before I drop the truck back down?
10-15-2018, 02:31 PM
#84
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2018
Posts: 86
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Ok so just get it started then tighten up when I drop it.
Will the pin pin align on the perch once I drop the Jeep?
Om I’m going to have a jack on the axle keeping it level as I drop the Jeep with another jack,, sound about right?
mean while just have all leaf bolts and u bolts just started
Will the pin pin align on the perch once I drop the Jeep?
Om I’m going to have a jack on the axle keeping it level as I drop the Jeep with another jack,, sound about right?
mean while just have all leaf bolts and u bolts just started
10-15-2018, 02:42 PM
#85
CF Veteran
Join Date: Oct 2013
Location: Tarpon Springs, FL / Denver, CO
Posts: 2,097
Likes: 0
Received 8 Likes
on
7 Posts
Year: '98
Engine: 4.0 I6
Yup, just get the bolt through the hole (screwdriver or something similar to "pull" the leaf spring in-line with the hole).
If it's really out of whack, you might need to use something like a ratchet strap around the axle to get it to line up (if jacking it up and moving it around a little doesn't help).
Then you want to run all the bolts down, but keep everything just a touch loose so it can settle in place once you drop it back on the ground.
Then go around and tighten everything in sequence. I usually like to get everything to half tightness, then go for the full torque to try and minimize any binding. Lastly, install the shocks.
I think I got the leaf's bolted to the axle, then to the front mount, then finally the rear one. Put it back on the ground and got everything tightened up. I don't really know if there is a better way but that is what I ended up doing when I swapped rear axles.
Check torque after 50 miles, then after another 300 ish miles or so. All of mine loosened up when I checked them at 300 ish miles, but haven't since.
If it's really out of whack, you might need to use something like a ratchet strap around the axle to get it to line up (if jacking it up and moving it around a little doesn't help).
Then you want to run all the bolts down, but keep everything just a touch loose so it can settle in place once you drop it back on the ground.
Then go around and tighten everything in sequence. I usually like to get everything to half tightness, then go for the full torque to try and minimize any binding. Lastly, install the shocks.
I think I got the leaf's bolted to the axle, then to the front mount, then finally the rear one. Put it back on the ground and got everything tightened up. I don't really know if there is a better way but that is what I ended up doing when I swapped rear axles.
Check torque after 50 miles, then after another 300 ish miles or so. All of mine loosened up when I checked them at 300 ish miles, but haven't since.
11-05-2018, 07:15 AM
#86
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2018
Posts: 86
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Ok so I got some time to get together the passenger side. I had to finish a bathroom remodel and replace the entire front end of my sisters Prius. No time for Jeep last couple of weeks. Shocks they sent me didn’t fit so I need to find another option with a t bar the one they sent me differed from picture as it had a bolt for the top.
Stock grand cherokee shocks are on there again. The passenger side leaf springs being done really help with making it look normal as far as ride height. It should settle out nicely.
11-06-2018, 12:14 AM
#87
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2018
Posts: 86
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
I got the driver side done in about an hour it was much easier than the passenger. I think because of the track bar. But all even and set in the perch an each side. I got the new tial q bov in the as well. Need to figure out dash soon and tach.
11-06-2018, 06:23 AM
#88
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2015
Location: Louisville KY
Posts: 736
Likes: 0
Received 4 Likes
on
4 Posts
Year: 01
Model: Cherokee
Ok so I got some time to get together the passenger side. I had to finish a bathroom remodel and replace the entire front end of my sisters Prius. No time for Jeep last couple of weeks. Shocks they sent me didn’t fit so I need to find another option with a t bar the one they sent me differed from picture as it had a bolt for the top.
Stock grand cherokee shocks are on there again. The passenger side leaf springs being done really help with making it look normal as far as ride height. It should settle out nicely.
11-06-2018, 06:25 AM
#89
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2018
Posts: 86
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
I actually saw something like that for qa1 shocks. Did something specific to the strange shocks but I will search for Jeep eliminators now. Thanks for the heads up.
11-06-2018, 06:49 AM
#90
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2018
Posts: 86
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Did some searching looks like I have the wrong type of shock head. They sent me nut on top and the conversion looks like it’s for eye on top not nut on top. So I will re order accordingly. There are a lot more options this opens me up to.