garider

UPDATED SOLUTION BELOW: Reply #26

I ended up purchasing the RC kit w/full leafs because this was supposed to be a bolt-on, ready to run kit. Not. Granted that it actually rides better than it did without the lift, there are several hiccups with the install. Rough Country forgot to mention that I'll need to extend the bump stops at both ends, fabricate rear sway-bar drop mounts because they sit against the axle bolts now, and um, you might get some grinding noise or vibrations that will have to be addressed. The big problem that worries me most is that it does have a "grinding" noise at the rear when decelerating. I've searched high and low on this forum and Google and have found tons of people with the same problem, and I understand it comes from changing the axle angle and the slip joint isn't as far in the transmission, but I have yet to find a positive answer to a fix. Some say the transfer case drop worked on the 4wd's, and some say it won't go away without an SYE. I don't think a SYE is available for 2wd, and I did not plan on spending even more money after purchasing the lift.

Today I replaced the u-joints because they were original w/200K miles with hopes of curing the grinding noise. The original non-greasable joints were in amazingly good shape for 200k and still had grease. The new joints made a very minimal improvement, and it still has the grinding noise on Deceleration. Under power there is no noise. So I decided to try and use the included transfer case drop kit to lower the transmission cross member, which in my mind will do the same as lowering a transfer case by decreasing the DS angle. Here we go with another problem. Each side has 1 bolt into the unibody and 1 stud. There lies the problem. The kit comes with longer bolts to use on the drop kit, but the stud on each side is nowhere near long enough to get a nut on (photo below). We tightened the 2 cross member bolts down and took it for an easy, cautious test drive. Grinding is still there on decel, but about 25% less noisy. I just can't let him drive it like this, nor do I want to drive it this way.

Does anyone have a solid solution for the drop bolt/nut problem, and the GRINDING problem? I am extremely disappointed, as is my son since we were lifting it for him as his first vehicle.

.

kgm

What transfer case do you have, or is it direct off the transmission output on 2wd?

You could count the splines, and have something custom made at a driveline shop nearby. Might cost a few bucks, but they could definitely do it. Sounds like the CV shaft is your best bet.

98cherokee531

Ok for the transfer case mount stud, your goin to have to shoot some pb blaster on it and from inside the uni body helps to, either vise grips, double nut it, or I used stud pullers that grab the stud tighter as you ratchet to the left. Worked great. Grinding noise is coming from the u joints being to steep of an angle and need the angle less (tcase drop and degree shims) I use a 1" t case drop and 3* shims and my shaft is about 95% vibe free.

garider

It's a 2-wheel drive (so no transfer case at all), and the stud looks like it's pressed in? I can see that the threads stop at the base of the stud (look closely at the photo). It looks to be pressed in?

XJmike0122

That seems unsafe. Maybe its just not threaded the entire length of the stud. Is the rear axle shimmed at all?

garider

The axle is not shimmed at all, and no, I do not plan on driving it with only one bolt in each side. I only drove it a couple miles to see if the "grinding" had diminished with the addition of the drop/spacers on the cross member. We will not drive it until the cross member and grinding issue is resolved. I haven't even had the front end aligned yet - with the new tires.

DieselD

It's definitely not pressed it. It will come out.

As for the driveshaft you might be able to do a hack and tap. As long as the spline count is the same as it would be on a tcase I think it would work.

XJmike0122

You should look into shimming the axle properly. I'm sure the angles are off.

kal1fornia

The problem wasn't rough country, the problem was you didn't do your research. What is the point of lifting a 2wd XJ anyways?

garider

Can you point me in a direction to find out how much of a shim is needed?

When an item IE: Lift kit, is advertised as a "complete" kit, I expect it to be complete and not something that requires more parts and money to make it work/perform as advertised. Furthermore, if you cannot post helpful information or have at least have positive comments, I would ask that you keep your replies and opinions to yourself. The lift, as well as the wheels & tires is just for looks. Why would that be a problem for you?

Condonsation

I have an 01 2wd with a zone 4.5" lift. I alsp get the grinding/vib. Ive had it lifted for a little more than a year now. All I did was replace my ujoints. I love my 2wd. Granted im into prerunning and going fast through the desert. Putting my long travel shocks in and through the floor in the rear. If you throw a locker in a 2wd it can go places. You can still have alot of fun. Dont listen to the guys that are gonna put down your jeep. ITS A JEEP THING, no matter what kinda jeep it is!

XJmike0122

http://jniolon.clubfte.com/driveline...nephasing.html

exjay1027

That is not on Rough Country. You knew what parts it came with and not knowing what is going to happen when you lift a vehicle is your responsibility to know, not theirs to tell you.

Tsaani97xj

Glad to see you got it done. One of my pet peeves is that these kits are marketed with smoke and mirrors and dont tell the whole story.

The studs are definitely removable. As for the degree of shim you also need there is a few places around and vids on youtube describing how to measure it. When you do figure it out keep in mind on a non cv shaft the thick part of the shim faces the front of the jeep.

For reference I am around 4.5 non cv with about. 1" crossmember drop, currently using washers, and a 4 degree shim. It isnt perfect but close because when I get low on fuel and the back raises a bit my vibes diminish significantly. You might want to get a couple sets of different degrees in case it doesnt work right the first time.

PocketsEmpty

x2

Exactly what I was thinking, but he would probably/definitely need to have a custom shaft made. I would suspect it would be longer than that of a 4x4.