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4.5" lift on 2wd XJ success, but...

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Old 12-06-2013, 08:31 PM
  #31  
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Originally Posted by chipmaker
^x2
Happened to stumble upon your youtube vid, haha. Kudos on the no shop install.
Lol. We did it all outside. My shop was too clogged to do it inside, aside from the fact that I'm not sure that it would have fit due to the low ceiling height. I would have been a bit peeved to get the front torn apart and then not be able to raise it high enough to install the coils!
Old 06-28-2018, 01:12 AM
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Hi garider, which transfer case drop kit did you end up using? I also have a 2WD Cherokee and I need a transfer case drop kit but all the ones I find are for 4WD XJ (not compatible with 2WD)
Old 06-28-2018, 04:56 AM
  #33  
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Originally Posted by SDJeepgirl
Hi garider, which transfer case drop kit did you end up using? I also have a 2WD Cherokee and I need a transfer case drop kit but all the ones I find are for 4WD XJ (not compatible with 2WD)
The purpose of a transfer case is to transfer power to all 4 wheels, or to only two wheels, also has a low-range 4x4 selection.
A 2wd vehicle does not have a transfer case.
The 2wd XJ has a longer driveshaft so having to lower the crossmember (drop kit) is not usually required with mild lifts.

Last edited by SteveMongr; 06-28-2018 at 08:33 AM.
Old 06-28-2018, 10:29 AM
  #34  
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Originally Posted by Tsaani97xj
Glad to see you got it done. One of my pet peeves is that these kits are marketed with smoke and mirrors and dont tell the whole story.

The studs are definitely removable. As for the degree of shim you also need there is a few places around and vids on youtube describing how to measure it. When you do figure it out keep in mind on a non cv shaft the thick part of the shim faces the front of the jeep.

For reference I am around 4.5 non cv with about. 1" crossmember drop, currently using washers, and a 4 degree shim. It isnt perfect but close because when I get low on fuel and the back raises a bit my vibes diminish significantly. You might want to get a couple sets of different degrees in case it doesnt work right the first time.
Let me clarify that statement....that is true very few cases.

You have to shim as needed, and telling someone to put a shim in backwards without knowing the specifics of the angles is folly.

My previous trucks had no cv shaft to begin with, and they had the shim installed fat end aft just like every other vehicle and worked just fine.


.

Last edited by TRCM; 06-28-2018 at 11:11 AM.
Old 06-28-2018, 10:35 AM
  #35  
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Originally Posted by garider
UPDATE:
Finished the Transmission drop this evening. The 2 cross member studs were removable. One backed out with 2 nuts, the other I had to use the Vise-grips and heat. After that, I installed 1.75" spacers to drop the transmission cross member. Took it for a test drive and the grinding noise is gone.

By the way, with the 32" tires - via GPS, the speedometer starts deterring at about 40 mph. From 40 mph it starts to increase and stabilizes about 5 mph slower than the speedo shows, from 50-65 mph.

Note: As we pull back into the drive to park, I stabbed the throttle with the brakes applied to test the new angle of the engine and transmission. In Drive - nothing changed, but in Reverse, I hear a "rattle" of sort under the hood. I knew immediately that the fan was hitting something. We raise the hood and sure enough, under stress the engine moves to the passenger side just a tad (as most engines do) and the fan was barely touching the AC condenser line. Luckily, it wasn't enough to pop a hole in it (I like AC). No big deal as we were able to carefully bend the line toward the battery to solve the clearance.

I am relieved to say the least. Now on to aligning the front end, modifying & welding the exhaust mount (which was part of the transmission mount and no longer lines up since the cross member has been lowered), refurbishing the faded plastic parts, and doing something with the sagging headliner.

The speedo should be off by a percentage thruout the whole range, not nothing for the 1st 40, then 5 mph for the rest. It may be hard to see the difference down low tho.

Take the original tire size and divide it into the new tire size, and subtract 1. That will give you the % it should be off. ((32 / 28) - 1 = 0.14, or 14% error)

Then check it with a GPS unit or an app on your phone.

I say check it, cuz mine should have been off by 11%, but it was off by only 2%....reason, the factory speedo was off by ~ 8-9%.

My speedo with 31" tires and no corrections is off by: (rounded to 1/2 mph)
40 mph speedo -> 41.5 mph actual speed
60 mph speedo -> 62.0 mph actual speed
80 mph speedo -> 82.5 mph actual speed

.

Last edited by TRCM; 06-28-2018 at 11:16 AM.
Old 06-28-2018, 05:41 PM
  #36  
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Wow old thread revival haha. As to my earlier post and correction I ended up having to flip the shims because at 5"+ the ujoints would bind. Id like to retract and state shim installation depends on the vehicle and could be either way. My thoughts back then were based on trying to keep the ujoints in phase and parallel.
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