4.5" or 6.5" long arm????
10-27-2011, 08:28 PM
#1
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Year: 2001
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
4.5" or 6.5" long arm????
So i am trying to figure out if i should go 4.5 long arm or 6.5 long arm?
I know for sure i will have to get new tires which is not a problem.
Can i use a t case drop kit with a long arm lift or do i have to get an sye?
I know for sure i will have to get new tires which is not a problem.
Can i use a t case drop kit with a long arm lift or do i have to get an sye?
10-27-2011, 08:31 PM
#2
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Year: 2001
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L I6
My dream jeep is a 4.5 LA lift, just sayin.
Also, I would get an SYE, just cuz it's the "politically correct" thing to do. I have a 4.5 lift right now, and a tcase drop, and it's fine. But I will eventually get an SYE, just cuz.
Also, I would get an SYE, just cuz it's the "politically correct" thing to do. I have a 4.5 lift right now, and a tcase drop, and it's fine. But I will eventually get an SYE, just cuz.
10-27-2011, 08:32 PM
#3
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Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: Golen 4.6 Stroker, AFE Headers, 62mm TB, 24 LB Injectors, Brown Dog kit, HF Cat, 3" Exhaust
go with the 6.5 
im running 35x12s and love it.. you will need SYE with 6.5 for sure and you can rig it/use drop kit at 4.5 but I still recomend going with the SYE- If you get a full SYE kit it boosts your t-case strength anyways so why not.. cheaper than a new T-case
im running 35x12s and love it.. you will need SYE with 6.5 for sure and you can rig it/use drop kit at 4.5 but I still recomend going with the SYE- If you get a full SYE kit it boosts your t-case strength anyways so why not.. cheaper than a new T-case
10-27-2011, 08:40 PM
#4
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Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 I6
x2 but on 33s. 4.5" isn't bad at all, but is just low enough that you'll be kicking yourself that you didn't go higher.
10-27-2011, 08:49 PM
#5
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Year: 1995
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0ho
get a sye, why bother giving up ground clearance with a TC drop? defeats the purpose. they can be done hack n tap, with a front shaft on the rear for under 200
10-27-2011, 09:21 PM
#6
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Well the cost of all this is gona be like....
6.5" long arm = $1500
sye = $200
cvs d shaft $200
35 inch mud tires =$1000
Total = 2900
6.5" long arm = $1500
sye = $200
cvs d shaft $200
35 inch mud tires =$1000
Total = 2900
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10-27-2011, 10:33 PM
#8
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Model: Cherokee
Go 6.5". I went 4.5 and just ended up adding the next 2in to go 35's. Being in texas it might not be as big a deal. But up here in the mud, 33's are almost too small.
10-27-2011, 11:11 PM
#11
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Year: 2001
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
Not really sure what route i want to go......I want a little bit nicer ride, bumpers, roof rack, tinted windows, radio, speakers......
Right now the jeep has a 3 inch rough country lift, 33/10.50/R15 bfg km2s
Right now the jeep has a 3 inch rough country lift, 33/10.50/R15 bfg km2s
10-28-2011, 12:07 AM
#12
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Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: Golen 4.6 Stroker, AFE Headers, 62mm TB, 24 LB Injectors, Brown Dog kit, HF Cat, 3" Exhaust
go 6.5... 6.5 trimmed with 35s has more flex than 4.5 trimmed with 35s... and looks better I ran around forever with the 35s without trimming at all... only rubbed on a few occasions.. and I love the way mine rides.. I had a skyjacker lift on my old jeep.. the IRO long arm is much much better (both offroad and on the road)
I ran around forever with the 35s without trimming at all... only rubbed on a few occasions.. and I love the way mine rides.. I had a skyjacker lift on my old jeep.. the IRO long arm is much much better (both offroad and on the road)
10-28-2011, 07:16 AM
#15
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Year: 1994
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Id go 6.5 BC you most likely will end up going 6.5 anyway. It fits 35;s better, and as far as why so big?? 6.5 on a cherokee is like the stock size of a soccer mom chevy tahoe, its not like your going to be a monster truck now...