35x14.5 + 4.5in lift
#1
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35x14.5 + 4.5in lift
I've got 33x14.5s right now. They don't rub on anything when I'm wheeling and I don't mind the stock gears (3.07s + 4L = boss). Found a set of 35x14.5. Too big for d30 to handle? I don't get crazy with the skinny pedal unless I'm in mud, I like to sling it all over the place. :P
The only street driving they will see is to/from the trails. I don't particularly want to snap that axle... Anyone run them with the stock axles? I'm not too worried about the gears except for shredding them. The rear will be locked eventually.
Thread title should probably say 35x14.5 on stock d30. :P They won't rub.
The only street driving they will see is to/from the trails. I don't particularly want to snap that axle... Anyone run them with the stock axles? I'm not too worried about the gears except for shredding them. The rear will be locked eventually.
Thread title should probably say 35x14.5 on stock d30. :P They won't rub.
Last edited by mr white; 02-07-2012 at 01:47 AM.
#4
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Year: 1996
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sorry to hijack your thread.
but how much bumpstop ( or what ) are you runnning to keep from tire rub.
esp on turns..
i just got 35x12.5 km2s put on yesterday
and i need some bumpstopping to prevent it from rubbing front and rear.
but how much bumpstop ( or what ) are you runnning to keep from tire rub.
esp on turns..
i just got 35x12.5 km2s put on yesterday
and i need some bumpstopping to prevent it from rubbing front and rear.
#5
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Year: 1995
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8.25 might be ok with the 35's although thats a big chance you're taking. D30 may hold them for a month if you're lucky, but even with chromo shafts you're pushing it.
D44 front and 8.8 rear, very cheap and easy to do.
3.07 gearing with 35's will be horrid no matter where you are.
D44 front and 8.8 rear, very cheap and easy to do.
3.07 gearing with 35's will be horrid no matter where you are.
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#8
8.25 might be ok with the 35's although thats a big chance you're taking. D30 may hold them for a month if you're lucky, but even with chromo shafts you're pushing it.
D44 front and 8.8 rear, very cheap and easy to do.
3.07 gearing with 35's will be horrid no matter where you are.
D44 front and 8.8 rear, very cheap and easy to do.
3.07 gearing with 35's will be horrid no matter where you are.
can you please explain how you can build a d44 front cheap? not bashing you just curious why to think that
#9
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no way in hell its cheap and easy to do. most here dont know how to weld so they have to pay someone. if you are going to keep the stock d44 shafts you might as well keep the d30. real non imported shafts and a good ujoint your are into it for 1K thats not counting gears, locker, hubs, brackets.
can you please explain how you can build a d44 front cheap? not bashing you just curious why to think that
can you please explain how you can build a d44 front cheap? not bashing you just curious why to think that
#10
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no way in hell its cheap and easy to do. most here dont know how to weld so they have to pay someone. if you are going to keep the stock d44 shafts you might as well keep the d30. real non imported shafts and a good ujoint your are into it for 1K thats not counting gears, locker, hubs, brackets.
can you please explain how you can build a d44 front cheap? not bashing you just curious why to think that
can you please explain how you can build a d44 front cheap? not bashing you just curious why to think that
There is no such thing as a "easy" swap that is both cheap AND worth the effort.
#12
yes I can find a hp44 for cheap but needs to be cut down unless you run full width but then you suggested a 8.8 and that's narrower the stock. i weld so brackets dont scare me but you have to purchase those or run the stock thin crappy brackets.
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Year: 1995
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#15
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Without breaking it down I have about 1300 bucks in my Wagoneer 44. That included making all my own brackets and truss.
OP, out of curiosity, why do you prefer such a wide tire?
OP, out of curiosity, why do you prefer such a wide tire?