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35x14.5 + 4.5in lift

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Old 02-07-2012, 01:43 AM
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Default 35x14.5 + 4.5in lift

I've got 33x14.5s right now. They don't rub on anything when I'm wheeling and I don't mind the stock gears (3.07s + 4L = boss). Found a set of 35x14.5. Too big for d30 to handle? I don't get crazy with the skinny pedal unless I'm in mud, I like to sling it all over the place. :P
The only street driving they will see is to/from the trails. I don't particularly want to snap that axle... Anyone run them with the stock axles? I'm not too worried about the gears except for shredding them. The rear will be locked eventually.

Thread title should probably say 35x14.5 on stock d30. :P They won't rub.

Last edited by mr white; 02-07-2012 at 01:47 AM.
Old 02-07-2012, 01:56 AM
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What rear axle do you have? If its a D35 I wouldn't even run those 33s
Old 02-07-2012, 02:09 AM
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8.25 which is why I'm more concerned with the front axle lol
Old 02-07-2012, 10:23 AM
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sorry to hijack your thread.

but how much bumpstop ( or what ) are you runnning to keep from tire rub.
esp on turns..

i just got 35x12.5 km2s put on yesterday
and i need some bumpstopping to prevent it from rubbing front and rear.
Old 02-07-2012, 11:10 AM
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Originally Posted by mr white
8.25 which is why I'm more concerned with the front axle lol
8.25 might be ok with the 35's although thats a big chance you're taking. D30 may hold them for a month if you're lucky, but even with chromo shafts you're pushing it.

D44 front and 8.8 rear, very cheap and easy to do.

3.07 gearing with 35's will be horrid no matter where you are.
Old 02-07-2012, 11:19 AM
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with a tire that wide I would be concerned with hubs. lots of weight with a 14.5 tire
Old 02-07-2012, 11:22 AM
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I'd say go for it if they weren't 15" wide lol. A lot of extra weight on your corners..
Old 02-07-2012, 11:24 AM
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Originally Posted by Diesel
8.25 might be ok with the 35's although thats a big chance you're taking. D30 may hold them for a month if you're lucky, but even with chromo shafts you're pushing it.

D44 front and 8.8 rear, very cheap and easy to do.

3.07 gearing with 35's will be horrid no matter where you are.
no way in hell its cheap and easy to do. most here dont know how to weld so they have to pay someone. if you are going to keep the stock d44 shafts you might as well keep the d30. real non imported shafts and a good ujoint your are into it for 1K thats not counting gears, locker, hubs, brackets.

can you please explain how you can build a d44 front cheap? not bashing you just curious why to think that
Old 02-07-2012, 11:33 AM
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Originally Posted by xjbeadlocks
no way in hell its cheap and easy to do. most here dont know how to weld so they have to pay someone. if you are going to keep the stock d44 shafts you might as well keep the d30. real non imported shafts and a good ujoint your are into it for 1K thats not counting gears, locker, hubs, brackets.

can you please explain how you can build a d44 front cheap? not bashing you just curious why to think that
X2. The truss with brackets is 600 bucks alone.
Old 02-07-2012, 11:33 AM
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Originally Posted by xjbeadlocks
no way in hell its cheap and easy to do. most here dont know how to weld so they have to pay someone. if you are going to keep the stock d44 shafts you might as well keep the d30. real non imported shafts and a good ujoint your are into it for 1K thats not counting gears, locker, hubs, brackets.

can you please explain how you can build a d44 front cheap? not bashing you just curious why to think that
Cause I did it for under $500 in a weekend with a Waggy 44. Ford HP44 is a cheap JY grab(add some $$ for parts) and doesnt take much time IF you have all the tools.

There is no such thing as a "easy" swap that is both cheap AND worth the effort.
Old 02-07-2012, 11:36 AM
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Originally Posted by Diesel
Cause I did it for under $500 in a weekend with a Waggy 44. Ford HP44 is a cheap JY grab and doesnt take much time IF you have all the tools.

There is no such thing as a "easy" swap that is both cheap AND worth the effort.
Did you cut out all your own brackets? Still using the stock shafts and u joints? Truss? Locker? Gears?
Old 02-07-2012, 11:39 AM
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Originally Posted by Diesel
Cause I did it for under $500 in a weekend with a Waggy 44. Ford HP44 is a cheap JY grab(add some $$ for parts) and doesnt take much time IF you have all the tools.

There is no such thing as a "easy" swap that is both cheap AND worth the effort.
please explain what you used for brackets, gears, lockers?

yes I can find a hp44 for cheap but needs to be cut down unless you run full width but then you suggested a 8.8 and that's narrower the stock. i weld so brackets dont scare me but you have to purchase those or run the stock thin crappy brackets.
Old 02-07-2012, 11:43 AM
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Originally Posted by Diesel
Cause I did it for under $500 in a weekend with a Waggy 44. Ford HP44 is a cheap JY grab(add some $$ for parts) and doesnt take much time IF you have all the tools.

There is no such thing as a "easy" swap that is both cheap AND worth the effort.
Originally Posted by brookhart63
Did you cut out all your own brackets? Still using the stock shafts and u joints? Truss? Locker? Gears?
Made my own brackets, had shafts modified at The Axle Exchange(around $70 for both), had the uni's, bought a truss for $120 off pirate, LS from a guy in NJJC for $120, geared it to 4.88 which was another $120 from russ at ECG.
Old 02-07-2012, 11:43 AM
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Anyways.. I think as long as you're easy on it you'll be OK. I know freegdr on here is running 37's on D30 and 8.25, and has for a while now
Old 02-07-2012, 11:53 AM
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Without breaking it down I have about 1300 bucks in my Wagoneer 44. That included making all my own brackets and truss.

OP, out of curiosity, why do you prefer such a wide tire?


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