NattyBoh

I read on both sides of the fence, but havent read anything from anyone reputable on the forums. Reason I went with the 4.56s is because its WAY better than the 3.55s in there now. And it was a balance between 33s and 35s ( incase I want to downgrade ) I also read that 4.88s could break axels/u-joints more frequent. And I also have pretty much no rocks here, we have mostly mud. And the 4.56s will help spin the tires a bit faster to shed the mud. I just bought these, so they are going to be installed shortly.

The question is, are the diff's going to be strong enough? I have a 29 splined Chrysler 8.25 and the HP D30. No rocks really, maybe here and there. But again pretty much no rocks.

What do you think?

phoenix901223

run it until you spit gears out the pumpkin than swap dana 44s

NattyBoh

haha I just bought the gears. so does this mean a definite and immediate death for the diffs?

Also, I can go back to 33's as Im in the market for tires too..

xjmonkey

you will be fine. buy spicer u-joints or better when you have a failure, cuz that where your failure should be with stock drivetrain. ive seen 29 splines hold 35s locked in the rocks.

Char92dj8

you will be fine!

SeriousOffroad

You'll be fine. Just use some common sense with regards to the skinny pedal.

rweaver138

what frank said

NattyBoh

Awesome guys. Question: Wouldnt it be smart to run weaker u-joints. Reason being so THEY break and not anything else?

N20jeep

if you take that route, id run them on the driveshaft and not the axle shafts.

NattyBoh

Does that make sense though? Whats a good universal joint to run in the axles?

Garvin

With stock shafts, I'd just run Spicers.

NattyBoh

I dont have stock drive shafts. They are Quigley's custom driveshafts.

SeriousOffroad

My son's XJ is on the same axles, 4.88's (better option for 35's), Alloy shafts out back with a NoSlip, stock shafts up front and open diff. We've wheeled all over colorado and Moab....no carnage at all.

Alloy's are expensive, but you also get piece of mind...and that my friends is priceless.

Garvin

You asked about the axles so I was referring to them. I was just running TRW u-joints in my Tom Woods drive shaft and never had an issue with them blowing up. I would need to change them out every few months because of the mud though but had no qualms at $7.50 a joint. Stay far away from the Brute Force joints though, they're just garbage.

NattyBoh

True on the 4.88s is better but its only 100 some extra RPM. I dont think its going to be a deal breaker for me... Sure I should have went with 4.88s but Id rather not put THAT much MORE extra stress on the drivetrain.