CADWELL

I've got money saved up and I'm gonna start piecing together my lift. I'm set on going 5.5 to leave room in the future for 35's comfortably.

I've done tons of searching around here and I've read some differences as to the two different types of set-ups. 2 things I like about the Rock Krawler 3 link is ground clearance design and 3 points in which the axle mounts directly to the body. Also, I'm trying to compare the difference between their solid alloy LCA's compared to Chro moly tubes.

The other kit I like is the TnT high clearance radius set-up.

Are there other kits I should consider based upon what I'm looking for?

hankthetank

im in love with the clayton pro series 3-link kit...mmmm

CADWELL

So why are you in love with it?

My rig mainly sees the asphalt and some occasional 70 mph HWY driving, but will regularly see the Sonoran desert on the weekends and I'm trying to find whether a 3 link or radius arm would suit my needs.

Originally I thought I'd go with a straight tube LCA, but I really like the high clearance design that RK and TnT offer along with quality joints. Or will even a straight LCA fit my needs?

Atmos

I've gone back and forth and back and for between radius arms, 3 link, or building my own arms. it's a headache and I'm sick of it. the front axle is only a dana 30 I don't feel like going through the trouble of cutting off old brackets, welding on new mounts/bracket and everything that goes along with 3 links. I say screw it bolt on some radius arms whatever you can find. I think I'll end up with serious long arms or something I find for sale used. if you're gonna go big though, the TnT kit looks pretty damn sweet

hankthetank

i feel the same way! i wanna be a rock star and go 3-link...but then i get real with myself and think '**** it, just radius arms are good for me, i daily drive this hunk of **** anyways AND its a d30'.

Atmos

exactly. I'm tired of over thinking it it's exhausting. I think I'll blow my wad all over the rear instead and get rid of those pesky leaf springs

Lead Foot

We make a nice 3 link and true 4 link kit. Both suspension systems have been proven to be far superior over a radius arm setup. The heavy duty crossmember and skid that comes with our kit has a removable center section as well so you dont have to block the tires and unbolt the control arms just to drop the crossmember and service the transmission.

To run our 3 link kit you only have to cut off the stock passenger axle upper control arm mount and weld on the supplied new one. Worth it even on a dana 30. Our 4 link kit is completely bolt on with no weldind required. even our upper arms have left and right hand threads so you can adjust caster and axle location without unbolting the arms.

If you really dont want to mess with the weld on mount for a 3 link we could equip your kit with the same "female" adjustable end on the upper control arm we use with our 4 link kits. Then it could bolt strait to your existing UCA mount. The reason this isn't usually done is because a heim joint will last alot longer then poly or rubber joints on a 3 link system.

This is a really common misconception that I dont know where it started. There is absolutely NOTHING WRONG WITH RUNNING A 3 LINK ON A DAILY DRIVEN VEHICLE. Many others and I have daily driven our rigs with 3 links and there is no problem with stability, strength, or handling. I have even taken my rig over 95 miles an hour on 35s lifted 6.5 inches.

Atmos

So you don't weld on raised lower brackets?

ktmracer419

I know you know what you are doing, but I have to urge you not to recommend that.

The stock passenger side uca mount is super weak, and known to fold over quite often. A good hit with it being the one upper control arm mounting point could very well destroy it. And a single 10mm bolt is super lame too.

hankthetank

you've misconceived my conception.lol i know a 3 link is fine on the road. for the amount of time i actually get to wheel, and the average cost of both setups, a simple radius arm would probably suit my needs just fine. your 3link upgrade is $900...the serious long arm is under $700. its just cost vs need. I have separation anxiety with the bills in my wallet plus, i'm lazy. i have all the tools and equipment to build my own but...ahh lets not get into that.

Lead Foot

Thank you, and Yea I would have to agree with that. Thats why I said its normally not done. Thinking about it a little more, he would be better off purchasing our 4 link kit, then removing the passenger side arm instead. The cast drivers mount is much stronger. It still uses a rubber bushing so I cant guarantee bushing life. I know of companies that do make solid joint inserts for those stock mounts though...

Thanks for pointing that out KTM. Good info as always.

Lead Foot

Love the word play. lol k, makes more sense now.

I completely understand man, I like to hold on to my money just like you. Serious makes a good radius arm set up, no problem with that if it fits your needs.

Kris Froehlich

Atmos

This was my point also. How much money are you willing to spend vs how much do you really need a 3 link. If I was building a 44 or a 60, yes in a heart beat. But for a Dana 30 on 35's or smaller? Is the added strength really necessary?

hankthetank

sorry for hijack man. hope this discussion helps anyways.

Lead Foot

It's more then just the added strength. It's the proper link seperation and lengths that gives you better link geometry and anti squat numbers. This leads to less unloading on steep climbs equaling a more stable climb and traction. Not to mention the caster and pinion angle staying more consistent throughout travel.