3" lift with stock drive shaft
Working on my 2000 XJ build.
3-3.5" lift, 8.8 explorer rearend. I do not want to rotate the pinion up on the rear, do to bad experiences with over filling rears in the past. (oil leaking at axle seals.) I am hoping my angles with a 3" lift will allow a conventional drive shaft (not a DC shaft), of course I wont know my final angles until everything is in and the weight of the vehicle is on it. I will be using an AX15 trans and 231 transfer case from a 95 XJ. My thoughts were to retain the stock slip at the transfer case, or install a SYE and have a DS made that retains conventional U joints and a slip in the drive shaft. I really want to stay away from rotating the pinion up. Thoughts? |
As stated you wont know till you have it bolted up then will be able to see the angle.
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Originally Posted by Slackdaddy
(Post 3537000)
Working on my 2000 XJ build.
3-3.5" lift, 8.8 explorer rearend. I do not want to rotate the pinion up on the rear, do to bad experiences with over filling rears in the past. (oil leaking at axle seals.) I am hoping my angles with a 3" lift will allow a conventional drive shaft (not a DC shaft), of course I wont know my final angles until everything is in and the weight of the vehicle is on it. I will be using an AX15 trans and 231 transfer case from a 95 XJ. My thoughts were to retain the stock slip at the transfer case, or install a SYE and have a DS made that retains conventional U joints and a slip in the drive shaft. I really want to stay away from rotating the pinion up. Thoughts? I wonder if this will help: https://www.quadratec.com/jeep_knowl.../article-3.htm Or YouTube video TUFzehQBDPI posted on the Spicer site |
had to extend my driveshaft with a 3" lift.
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What if you:
1) Drop the transfer case? or 2) add a slip yoke eliminator kit? |
You're going through a lot of effort to avoid a problem that can be solved by reading. Look up how much gear oil a ford 8.8 is meant to hold and add that much fluid. Problem solved. Don't re engineer the wheel to get around a simply solved problem. If you can run the factory driveshaft and it doesn't vibrate at those angles, cool. If it does vibrates throw some shims in there and put a SYE and double cardan shaft in there.
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If I am using a standard drive shaft (a U joint on each end), then the 8.8 rear will be somewhat at it's stock angle (near level) and I can fill it to the factory specs.
If I go with a SYE and Double Cardan, then I have to rotate the rear pinion up, then I run it to a situation where I could run the front pinion bearing dry, unless I over fill the rear, then I will have issues at the axle seals. As previously stated, I guess I will not know until I get it all back together and on its own weight (with out welding the perches), then measure all the angles
Originally Posted by SatiricalHen
(Post 3537395)
You're going through a lot of effort to avoid a problem that can be solved by reading. Look up how much gear oil a ford 8.8 is meant to hold and add that much fluid. Problem solved. Don't re engineer the wheel to get around a simply solved problem. If you can run the factory driveshaft and it doesn't vibrate at those angles, cool. If it does vibrates throw some shims in there and put a SYE and double cardan shaft in there.
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Well I've been driving my lifted Cherokee for years without the pinion running dry and I fill it to stock specs. Low pinion axles don't really have a huge lubrication issue when shimmed a couple of degrees. I've also got many friends who fill theirs to factory specs with no issues. I like the fact that with the double cardan rear shaft I only need one spare that fits front and rear. It's not perfect length for them, but it will work for the rest of the ride and get me home. I personally would just do an sye since that's is what I have done and tons of other people have done with no issue at all.
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