When I installed my Rough Country 3" leaf packs, the rear went up about five inches at first. After I lifted the front and drove it around for a few days, it settled to its resting place of just over 3". Yours should settle some.

 

Here are some pictures of only the rear lifted. From center of wheel to bottom of the fender I am sitting at just over 22 inches. My rear shocks are 21 inches from eye to eye. So the leafs I got from ARB actually went up to 4.5 inches of lift (7 inches over saggy rear end). And yes, I know that if you want less you need to remove a leaf from the pack. But call me crazy, if I am paying for a 4.5 inch leaf pack, I am keeping all of the lift I paid for haha.
Anyways, I was worried about the shocks being too far extended so I called IRO and they still have 4 inches of play left..not great but they will do until I save up for Billsteins.
To make up for the front I purchased a spacer from IRO to put the front right around 5 inches. That means I will also have to return the sway bar end links and get slightly longer ones. Not a big deal since I am moving my family back to Indiana next week.

 

 

You did make sure to tighten all bolts when the jeep was on the ground and not in the air right. Plus you can remove the overload spring on the OME pack. They make mention in the instructions to remove a leaf to drop in lift height

 

Indeed I did, I am also due to retighten everything else down later this week. Like I said earlier, if I pay for all of those springs I am keeping them all. Too lazy to pay for all of that and then remove one on top of that. Its like paying for two hookers but only banging one.

 

Oh well ok. Either throw a bunch of sand bags in there or convert to a 5" lift with longer shocks, brake lines and sye etc. I don't have that chart handy in front me

 

I know of the chart you speak of actually. I had actually purchased everything in case this did happen so thankfully the extra lift isn't worrying me.

 

Well hot damn, you mean to tell me you actually are a prepared keeper and not just gonna ***** and moan about the lift kit...

There's a bunch of quality leafs that wont settle too fast like RC. Rustys is apparently decent. RE leafs will raise you up good. I'm happy I'm ready when I redo my rear end as I may go with a 3.5" RE lift.

 

I *****ed and moaned the entire day it took me to get those saggy leafs off!

These OME leafs have been great so far and from what I have been reading they wont sag much at all. Have you looked into IRO? Their products have been awesome and their customer service is on point, unlike ****ty *** rockyroad.

 

I have a bunch of IRO parts on my jeep including their hack and tap SYE. They have been good to me so far customer service wise. Don't have much complaints on their parts. It's rare for someone to post up and it be mostly positive and not ***** about their jeeps too high. They wanted to be cheap about it. They're gonna sell their jeep now and drive a Prius, etc

 

Haha amen brother. I didn't know there was such a thing as too high haha.

Awesome, how did your hack and tap go? I am waiting for mine to come in the mail and was going to grab a front shaft from the yard. I have heard SEVERAL things about what lenght to cut. I heard their insturctions are pretty much garbabe so I was just going to leave 1.75 inches and go from there. Thoughts?

 

Mines went flawless and I didn't have to run the jeep in reverse, good with a grinder from work. I just laid on my back and went to work. Slow without force let the grinder to the work. Even only had to use one disc. As for length. Yea, their instructions aren't right. I don't even remember what I did. Iirc I left 1 1/4" of spline left or only 1". Test fit everything with a shack and yoke in place. I did cut back the actual IRO yoke to the point where the splines start so it would sit more flush. Iirc because I went less than the instructions, the yoke was a little too long.

Now the hardest part was drilling. Def need good drilling oil, and 2 good drill bits. Just take your time. I did use their drill jig and it helped big time. Then sold it because its no longer needed.

 

That sounds like everything else I have been hearing. I also bought their jig, again I'd rather pay more and be prepared than get pissed off.

The only thing I don't quite understand is cutting the IRO yoke. Most people say they had to do. Could you explain that further, I'm sure I'll understand more once I get down there but until then I am sort of lost on that.

 

You'll def have your light bulb turn on once you see it. Inside the yoke, its, iirc, slightly more than half spline and the other part smooth, no spline. So I cut just after the splines so it wouldn't stick out so far. Just used a grinder for that and a rats tail to smooth out. Of course the splined part is closer to the front yoke part of the piece.

 

Ahhh I see now. Yeah sounds like I'll get it figured out.