2001 XJ 3" Lift Help
 

Hey everyone this is my first time posting on here, I have researched the forums and have a pretty good understanding of what I am doing/need to do. I have a 2001 XJ with the Dana 35, I use it for my daily driver mostly but at least half of the year I spend in snow and ice. I live in the country and do some light off road work. Down the road I plan on maybe putting a plow on the front but mostly using it to rescue local cars that get stuck. I would like to put 31s on the car if possible.

On my shopping list thus far I have:
o 2.75" OME Leafs, Medium Load
o OME Bushings
o Dana 35 UBolts
o OME Shocks Heavy, not the Nitro Shocks, or the 5100 Bilsteins
o 1.75" OME Coils (is there a big difference in brands or are they all mostly equal?)

The things I am not sure about:
o To bring the front end what will I need, Just a spacer or bump stop or both?
o Will I need new brake lines? If so anything cheap ways to do so?
o Will I need sway bar disconnects, steering stabilizer, T-Case drop, control arm, or adjustable front track bar?
o I am correct in the assumption that I do not need to mess with gears?

Any advice would be greatly appreciated!!

Edit:
I just saw this which was posted the other day, https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f67/nk...-chart-211878/
That answers most of my questions, still would like to know the following:

o Does the brand of coil really matter, or is the load ratting the biggest factor?
o To bring the front end what will I need, Just a spacer or bump stop or both?
o Does anyone recommend getting a new steering stabilizer with 31s?
o I am correct in the assumption that I do not need to mess with gears?

I have the same setup you're considering in my storage room waiting to get installed. I went with the Bilstein 5100's though and splurged on the JKS ACOS for the front to level it out. I've also read that I will likely have to remove a leaf from the OME medium load leafs because many people who have installed them experienced dramatically more lift than the 2.75" they advertise.

How are you liking your coil spacers? I have also heard that about the rear leafs after talking to jeepinoutfitters. When do you plan on putting all of your stuff together?

I haven't installed any of it yet, so I can't tell you how the coil spacers are from personal experience. The spacers were the last piece I was waiting on to do the install, so it should be happening soon.:thumbup:

Update
 

Update:

I ended up going with:
OME MD leafs and all hardware needed for that
IRO Shocks
IRO 3" Coils
IRO Adjustable Track Bar
IRO Extended Front Sway Bars
IRO Tcase drop kit
31 inch tires from Treadwright
Rear bumper from Affordable Offroad

I am going with a 3 inch lift, I know the rear leafs will probably go higher than that, if it is close to 3.5 after I install the bumper I will just put some spacers in the front. Hopefully I get everything in this week and can get it knocked out early next week.

2001 XJ 3" Lift Help
 

Don't forget that OME adds an extra spring in for heavier loads. If the rear is too stiff pull it out.

No, you don't need to worry about gears with 31s if you're doing daily driving and light off road : )

As for the steering, see how it handles after you do the lift. If it's fine, don't bother. (You shouldn't really have to mess with it. Watch your track bar after lift, friend of mine got death wobble.)

You have several issues with your XJ that mounting a plow and pulling people out could cause problems.


When it comes to mounting plows you want a full frame (very stressful) my wife's and I business has did contract plowing for the last 30 yrs. but that is just one of the problems.


The LPD30 is weaker than the HPD30 and the D35 is a time bomb for what you plan on doing very stressful on both. For pulling people out remember you ARE Liable for any damage done to their car. For those you need a winch for pulling people out not the XJ.


There are quite a few long time members on here running 31" tires and want to change to the proper gear for them a 4.10 but you can get by if careful and don't mind the mpg loss on the highway. You have 3.55 gear now if you have a AW4 trans next gear is a 3.73/4.10/4.56/4.88/5.13's in sequence.

In regards to this section of the above post, Fred is absolutely correct with the axle statements. The Low Pinion Dana 30 front axle is a freaking time bomb. The reason is that in forward driving motion, the pinion is exerting its force on the coast side of the ring gears teeth. The High Pinion Dana 30 corrects that issue and is a better option as well as a direct bolt in replacement and readily available in most junk yards.

The Dana 35 rear axle is also nothing more than a glorified paper weight.
As a matter of fact, I used a Dana 35 differential carrier for a door stop in my shop for the better part of a year because that what I felt it was best suited for. Try to find a Cherokee Chrysler 8.25 rear axle if you can as it is a much stronger axle and will also be a direct bolt on option. A Ford 8.8 is your most popular swaps but will require welding to make it fit the Cherokee.

I also suggest looking for 3.55 gears when you do your axle swap.
Many much better good idea.

Now, as far as the liability part goes, laws differ from state to state as they do province to province here in Canada. Where I live, in Alberta, it is legal to pull someone out of the ditch so long as no money is exchanged. As soon as money is exchanged, it becomes a business transaction and no longer falls under the Good Samaritan Act. Under the Good Samaritan Act, providing aid to a stranded citizen is permitted. The other beautiful part of this act is that the party being recovered assumes all liability for damages to their vehicle or persons as they are the ones requesting assistance. However, you are liable for damages to your own vehicle and persons.

Look up your local laws and see how they articulate road side vehicle recoveries.

Myself, I stop EVERY time I see a vehicle in the ditch through the winter. You never know why they went in; vehicle malfunction or driver malfunction. And if it were myself in the ditch and I was hurt, I would certainly like someone to come help me out if I couldn't help myself. Even if it's just providing a warm place to wait for a tow truck.

Thanks fo all of the info!

I was able to find a 8.25 axle in the junkyard with 3.55, already have it installed. Almost finished the lift in the rear but the very last bolt of the job, front eye leaf spring, busted off the welded nut and just spins now. Tomorrow I have to figure that out. Drilling the bolt out and welding new nut. So two questions.

As I am in the military and really had to blow several people to get the day off to work on this, is it OK to drive around 150 miles with just the rear lifted until incan do the front? Or is that I'll advised?

Secondly IRO did not send all of the parts for the endlinks, same as above, OK to drive around 150 on highway with stock endlinks until IRO sends me the missing hardware?

Whoa... !

:saddam:

Yeah you never put a plow on anything you like or want to keep.Its best to buy a beater pickup if you want to use a plow so if the salt eats it up or you break it your not gonna be mad.

Do yourself a favor and throw that transfer case drop in the trash

Haha I hear ya brother. After the first bolt I tried to take off snapped, ordered the hack N tap from IRO.

Also I finally finished the rear and got that pesky bolt out. The OME springs alone got me over 6 inches! Over stock I am not sure haven't made those measurements yet. So after I finish the front I will add the hack N tap and grap a front axle to put in the rear.

You must post pics