Billy Bee

Build a 1 ton tie rod/drag link setup. How does one ream the spindles properly and I'm assuming the pitman arm needs to be reamed as well? Anyone got a reamer I can borrow? 7 degree/1.5 per foot tapered reamer.

Rogue4x4

Remove the knuckles and pitman and ream on a press. I have seen some vids of people doing it on the vehicle, but I wouldn't recommend that...do it on a press, properly set up, to be sure.

Guywitha92

I drilled mine out for heims while still on my jeep. If I did it again, I would remove them and use a drill press.

Billy Bee

Sounds good! Also what does the top hole have to be at in the end? Ive heard to predrill from the top at 5/8" then ream. So .625 diameter then? If so Ive found a few for about $15-20. Cheap? Yes. Good enough for tapering a few holes? We'll see.

Rogue4x4

Don't know who made your kit, but here's some instructions from JCR that were the best I found out there...

https://www.jcroffroad.com/install_guides/1TON_OTK.pdf

Also, beware of cheap tooling...yes it costs less right now, but wait until you get halfway through reaming a part, and it wears out or breaks...so you order another one, and it happens again...by this point, you have severe frustration, delays on your project, possibly damage to components, and already enough money in to just have bought a good reamer in the first place. Just sayin'.

Buy quality, cry once.

XJlimitedx99

Where have you found them that cheap? All the ones I've seen have been around $70.

Pulling the parts and doing them on a press is definitely preferred but not always an option. I'll most likely be doing mine by hand on the Jeep. It will require some finesse. Definitely cannot just go for it.

Billy Bee

EBay. Listed in millimeters. 16 or 18mm diameter on top. I'll have it tomorrow. Ill let ys know how it works out.

Guywitha92

A buddy of mine reamed his for heim steering and bought the $70 reamer. He ended up breaking it on his pitman arm so instead of buying another reamer, he just bought a pitman arm already done

srb53150

i reamed mine by hand on the jeep, just go slow & easy . keep checking depth w/ tre , its easy to go too far w/ a drill press then you are screwed.

Billy Bee

Well my spindles are off already. anyone know what to drill them out to before tapering? 5/8 if I'm not mistaken.

skife

last time i did them i did it on the vehicle with a hand drill, holes didn't end up perfectly straight and i ended up having to do some grinding on the top of the knuckles so the nut would seat flat.

i'll do them in a drill press next time.

i'll also use offset TREs

Billy Bee

Question - Reading the link for the install procedure it says to take off the stabilizer bracket and some other cutting of the coil spring area is required. Ive never heard this any where else, besides a stabilizer is not needed. Any reasons for these modifications?


The TREs I am using are 2027L, 2026R, 2233L, 2234R. One source says to use 2027L at the pitman another says to use 2026R at the pitman and to ream 2233L so 2027L will fit into it. Need some clarification before I ream. I will continue to search for the answer as well. Another source says to use 2234R twice and not use 2026R. From what Ive found through various sources, obviously, use 2233L at the passenger side and 2026R connects here. Drill and ream 2233L. Ream so that when installed 2026R's nipple will be facing the front of the vehicle. This is for the UTK setup (same as stock), but may differ with OTK.

Ok slowly finding information. For those of you seeking the same answers. Drill your knuckles and pitman arm out to at least 5/8 though this will require more reaming. 11/16 is where its at though. Hard to find an 11/16 bit in stores, and 5/8 is about $20 at the big box stores. Luckily I have an old guy friend who collects "junk".

Remember to drill out parallel or straight down through the current hole - I'm using a drill press. Super easy. Then ream a bit and check the seat of the TRE until it sits flush or you can get a cotter pin on. Haven't done this yet but ill update on the quality of my cheap reamer and the process.

Rogue4x4

Okay, the link I posted was for reference only, but they are the most detailed I was able to find online.

It depends on if you're doing OTK or UTK...those instructions are for OTK. The reason for cutting it is for clearance of the tie rod in an OTK setup.

Got my 11/16 bit on amazon for about $20...

Billy Bee

Gotcha, well no cutting for me then.

Guywitha92

I had to cut my swaybar mount off with my utk setup