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Washed it. Clayed it. Started polishing out the paint, then my mom called and I had to run two errands for her and a bird already **** on my XJ
Anyway, you can see the front fender and front door are finished. The rear door and aft are un-touched
50/50 shot, but before any polish or sealant. Just M105 + a Griots 5" Microfiber cutting pad. Lots of scratches that are too deep to remove. I already have clearcoat failure on my hood, so trying to keep as much on the rest of the XJ as I can.
Will finish the exterior with M105 and a MF pad, move to M205 and a white foam pad, then seal with Collinite 845
Looks great man. Amazing what a difference it makes just stripping back a bit of the dead top layer.
If the basecoat isnt completely baked on the hood, you can carefully sand down all the old clear. Then have hood, cowl, and the top of the fenders recleared down to the first bodyline. She'll be looking spiffy again.
Full brakes on the ZJ, flex lines, rotors, pads, callipers, on all four corners. Pedal is rock solid again. No significant frustrations, all fasteners broke loose with standard wrenching and no rounded corners. Anti seize is the favour you do for yourself! I do also remove the banjo, bleeders and hard line fittings, then apply ultra copper to the threads. No stuck bleeders in years to come. Calliper bolts break free easily and unscrew by hand. However use only silicone based brake lube on your sliders if servicing.
Also did the pipe, muffler, and tail pipe as the winter had rotted the last system into swiss cheese. Back to a relatively, with just a little ZJ Jeep throatyness, quiet ride. Sawzall is your friend for quick removal of the old system.
Remember to check your wheel nut torque before and after the test ride.
I do all at 90 and then again at 100 ft lb. The recheck after short test at 100 ft lb.
Then check again after couple of days. Always check wheel nut torque before and after offroading.
Today oil and summer tires for both the WJ, and yes the Hyundai. The back to the WJ for a replacement rad.
The perhaps the XJ can have some attention on the holiday monday? If the kids don't come over demanding laundry service and bbq. Poor XJ, no love for you.
Will put the kids to work cleaning up the XJ interior! Dog will supervise.
We have a plan!
I finally got my driver's side floor and seat bracket welded in after 1.5 years of sitting. The outer rocker panel and B pillar still need welded up. I'm hoping to have it done by the end of the month. I went to put my driver's side front door back on and it doesn't seem to fit just right when I put the OEM shims back in. It seem to be spring loaded when you go to open it up and the bottom seems kicked out 1/8 inch any ideas?
Bought a new header… apparently, my being able to 360º inspect it didn't find out there is quite a crack, and not at the collector where it usually is—probably why I didn't see it—wasn't looking for it.
Dropped the driveshafts off at the rebuilder’s last thursday, picked up and installed today. Parts alone to rebuild the front is in the $150 range, rebuilder charged me $200 and I get the confidence in a professional job. Next I look at the tcases on the ‘91 & ‘96, and swap if the part numbers are the same. The ‘96 has a SYE that I want on the ‘91. Either I sell the ‘96 or I keep it as a winter beater. Runs great, but I dislike the 2-door and the front floor pans need work. Otherwise relatively rust free.
05-19-2018, 05:10 PM
