Joecam18

I do have pre cats! and ralph idk where i got the idea that I needed these but it turns out I dont lmao! Bolted it all up without any gaskets and man does it sound like 100x better. Doesnt sound like open headers anymore lol



And jesse i never ran into any issues after posting about the thickness! everything runs great!

Ralph77

Was going to say because I replaced my entire exhaust from the dual cat back in my '00 and there was no mention of any gasket looking like that in any of the exhaust diagrams. Just the triangle ones. You got me all worried for a second that I screwed up. LOL.

SatiricalHen

I need to get a new exhaust manifold for the Comanche. I tried to go cheap and use a used one, but I can hear the leak. It's a lot louder than my Cherokee.

downs

Pulled the front end down for a full front brake over haul. Went ahead and pulled the front diff for a NoSlip install.

Was going to replace be axleshaft ujoints but they feel really good so I'm going to leave them for now.

Everything is prepped for install/replacement tomorrow.

third coast

Son acquired a 1997 from a volunteer fire department that had been used as a first responder vehicle. It has the light bar, strobes, Cherokee branded siren under front bumper, etc. Too cool. Dad can't wait to borrow this one.

Remo73

Finally got the drums off so that I can paint them. It doesn't look like the brake drums have been serviced in a decade. I sprayed them out with some brake cleaner but I just didn't have the funds to do the shoes today. It'll have to wait a week or two. I'm not convinced that 100% of all drum parts are even present after watching some UTube vids on replacement. That brake cylinder is pretty gnarly! Probably OEM, and it is about to turn 21...

Anyways, I'm liking the small splash of color on the wheel. Now the front calipers and the rear drums match, and pretty much the rest of the truck is subdued.

RockinRonnie

Looking at the pick the rear brakes look really good but noticed the self adjust cable is gone. That maybe why they look so good they are not adjusted correctly and are not working? The drums came off fairly easy I'm thinking. the way everything else looks I would get adjuster kit check the self adjuster make sure it is free and leave the rest alone from the looks of things! Save the funds for a more needed repair.

SatiricalHen

Did you actually set up the pattern with the new carrier or just slap it together and throw it in? I didn't see any gear paint or tools around is why I ask.

downs

no slip is a lunch box locker. On the D30 you have to drop the ring gear to get it in because the cross pin wont clear the ring gear

nothing else is being replaced so everything is just going back together the exact same way it came out, no reset required

SatiricalHen

Ah, I thought for some reason you were calling a limited slip a no slip. It's still early in the morning. I actually have a no slip in the rear so I should've recognized the name.

Remo73

Thank you for the input. When I pull the parking brake, It seems like it engages but I can definitely move the wheels with it on so I figured something like this was afoot. I can't see the self adjust cable either. Are there supposed to be one on each brake? Never done drum brakes before. I am specifically worried about the cylinder. I found a lot of brake fluid in the actual drum so I think it's probably leaking. Looks fairly straight forward to replace it.

downs

very easy to replace and also dirt cheap. I think I paid 12 dollars q piece for Raybestos ones from Rock Auto. dont bother doing anything else if itsleaking in there until you replace it. Brake fluid will ruin a new set of brake shoes.

if it was me I'd just bite the bullet and buy all new hardware kits, new adjuster kits and shoes. Also I'd take the drums and have them turned

It's not that expensive overall drum brake parts are cheap

Remo73

Yeah, I've looked up the parts that I need to replace and the hardware kit seems the way to go. I'll make it a Sunday afternoon project I think, because if I am left to my own devices I'd just sit and watch football all day anyways and this gets me outside and wrenching, which is about 1000% more productive of my time.

RockinRonnie

the pic you posted shows no sign of the wheel cyl. leaking I see that maybe you sprayed something on wheel studs. the springs and all look dry and in real good shape here is a pic of what things should look pic is pass side the other will be just flip everything My recommendation would be to get self adjuster kit check adjusters make sure they are free and put it together adjust them up and be good for awhile. A picture of the drum would help but with the picture you posted everything inside is dry and nice only wet I see is on the axle flange and not from wheel cylinder or did you clean everything up and let it dry before pic?

Remo73

Thanks Ronnie. I know absolutely nothing about drum brakes so this is all very new to me. So question: is the cylinder still good even if it's covered in rust? I would think it's rusting on the inside as well, but I'm likely wrong.

The wetness on the lugs is PB Blaster. I was having issues getting the drum off. Now that I am thinking about it, I suppose what I thought was brake fluid could be excess PB? Either way, I sprayed everything out and wiped it out as best as I could.

I don't think the rear brakes have been working for some time. I've owned this Jeep for almost 3 years and I haven't ever done them, although I have done the disc brakes twice.

As a visual learner, I will have to do it once and I'll understand more I think. I appreciate the recommendation.