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yeah. But that’s with the switches in them. I guess that’s not too bad?
No not at all. At least IMO. Somebody on Ebay was selling those. Wanted $150 for all 4, with free shipping, and it was missing one of the map pockets. And I think no switches but can't remember for sure. The were open to offers. Probably should have offered $100 cause I could have cared less that it was missing one map pocket.
As far as getting them off I am not really sure how to go about that. Know how they have that melted plastic behind them. There was probably studs on the inset that fit through holes in the door panel, for position, then they melted the plastic to secure it to the door panel. Now I Dremeled off the map pockets but that was not big deal. Thing is I am thinking door and lock rods need to be somewhat in position. Not perfect but close. So taking off the inset and then putting it on another panel would require some accuracy. I have the Camel panels I stole the map pockets from. Would play with those first to try and figure out the best way to do this. Then if I can figure out a good way to do it use the other Camel panels I have to make what I want. There is no way I am playing with the panels I have in the Jeep now to try to do this. My point is I appreciate your offer but have know idea how to tell you what would be the best way to tackle this. I am sure it is not that big a deal but.............
Happened yesterday but whatever. After driving the trail rig from Knoxville, TN to Chapel Hill, NC and then to Rochester, NY, I decided to take my stocker to work (it's a much nicer city car). Truck was running fine until I went to shift into 2nd and the clutch bound up and got stuck. It stayed in 2nd and drove fine (no noises or grinding) but I couldn't shift and the pedal would not depress.
Managed to throw it in neutral so it would at least roll, called the GF, went to go pick up the rig and then towed the 2dr home with the rig. I'm heartbroken about the 2dr, but towing a Cherokee with a Cherokee was pretty cool!
Now to figure out what's wrong with the 2dr. I had to go to work, so I haven't looked at the Jeep, but given the pedal will not depress AT ALL and the trans was shifting like butter up to this point, I'm hoping it's the master or slave cylinder and not the throwout bearing or clutch itself.
Happened yesterday but whatever. After driving the trail rig from Knoxville, TN to Chapel Hill, NC and then to Rochester, NY, I decided to take my stocker to work (it's a much nicer city car). Truck was running fine until I went to shift into 2nd and the clutch bound up and got stuck. It stayed in 2nd and drove fine (no noises or grinding) but I couldn't shift and the pedal would not depress.
Managed to throw it in neutral so it would at least roll, called the GF, went to go pick up the rig and then towed the 2dr home with the rig. I'm heartbroken about the 2dr, but towing a Cherokee with a Cherokee was pretty cool!
Now to figure out what's wrong with the 2dr. I had to go to work, so I haven't looked at the Jeep, but given the pedal will not depress AT ALL and the trans was shifting like butter up to this point, I'm hoping it's the master or slave cylinder and not the throwout bearing or clutch itself.
Should be an external slave if it's the 97 in your profile so that's an easy swap. Just run to autozone and get the one with a lifetime warranty. Swap it out and worst case scenario you have a lifetime warranty slave/master and a spare that's still good. Dropping these trans for a clutch is pretty easy compared to other vehicles.
So I rigged up around like the oil pressure sender like I wanted to and checked it with my OTC tester.
So with both the cluster and the mechanical gauge hooked up on start up the mechanical jumped to 70 but settled down to 60 pretty quick. Cluster went to 60 but settled at 52 pretty quick.
For awhile the mechanical was reading a little higher then the cluster gauge. But as the Jeep got hotter then it started reading a lower.
The sensor in there now has been in there for about 3 years. It is the Echlin one at Napa. For the longest time it would read 22ish at a very hot idle. But in the last 6 months I noticed it reading just a little higher.
Anyway to bottom line it. I let the Jeep idle for about an 75 minutes in the driveway. Pressure on the mechanical gauge read about 22. I am OK with that.
Finding the fittings I use for the set up proved to be a little harder then I thought it would be. I figured we would have them at the store but no. Struck out at an Auto Zone and Advance too. Even Home Depot did not have what I wanted. Ended up finding them at O'reilly's.
Man you know, YouTube videos are awesome for learning what you need to do with your Jeep. With that said, it's not always as easy!
I just replaced the door checks in my Jeep Cherokee 1998 Sport. And no it wasn't easy as the YouTube videos I watched. My problem was getting the door check past the wiring harness in the door, through the speaker hole. All I can offer as a tip is to be VERY patient, and keep at it. I had to maneuver the damn thing with my finger tips until the tongue finally found the slot. What a nightmare!
Now that I know how to weed it through the clutter though, I can do it in a snap. First time though? About 2 more hours than expected. Sigh.
They are in, and doors stay open again. WOW!
Another annoyance was pulling the doors closed enough to get the pins in. I was parked face down in my driveway which has a small incline. I had to pull the doors in slightly to get the pin hole to line up. Hard to do with just one person.
Driver side window regulator is in too. Thank goodness I had the nuts from the old one in my garage. The new kit did not have those on the motor mount (3 bolts, no nuts). Thank you Dorman!!
Tomorrow... speakers, power steering pump and lines, rear window wiper arm, new electric fan, new radiator hoses, licence plate light cover, and new 1 din stereo.
Jessenator, I have a similar sticker on my 98...but mine is just a jeep running over a family
HopWorks, good luck to you sir. On my rig all the little things are telling me that they need to be replaced too. Over the weekend I changed the brake pads, painted the calipers red, and rotated the tires. Today I decided that I was going to tap my stripped out oil pan threads. For never having used a tap kit before, I found it remarkably easy to cut through the relatively soft aluminum pan. The inserts went in without issues and I even used Mopar oil pan bolts for the repair. Probably my most professional looking repair on this Jeep IMO. You can't even tell it's tapped once the bolt is on there. I'm impressed. I bought an Amazon kit (Horusdy I think) for $39 instead of the Helicoils or Time Serts or whatever.
Anyways, good luck with your 98. If I can ever figure out how to upload pics to this site I will begin doing that. I know this isn't the place but can someone point me in the right direction, like is there a sticky on uploading pics that I missed or something?
Man you know, YouTube videos are awesome for learning what you need to do with your Jeep. With that said, it's not always as easy!
I just replaced the door checks in my Jeep Cherokee 1998 Sport. And no it wasn't easy as the YouTube videos I watched. My problem was getting the door check past the wiring harness in the door, through the speaker hole. All I can offer as a tip is to be VERY patient, and keep at it. I had to maneuver the damn thing with my finger tips until the tongue finally found the slot. What a nightmare!
Now that I know how to weed it through the clutter though, I can do it in a snap. First time though? About 2 more hours than expected. Sigh.
They are in, and doors stay open again. WOW!
Another annoyance was pulling the doors closed enough to get the pins in. I was parked face down in my driveway which has a small incline. I had to pull the doors in slightly to get the pin hole to line up. Hard to do with just one person.
Driver side window regulator is in too. Thank goodness I had the nuts from the old one in my garage. The new kit did not have those on the motor mount (3 bolts, no nuts). Thank you Dorman!!
Tomorrow... speakers, power steering pump and lines, rear window wiper arm, new electric fan, new radiator hoses, licence plate light cover, and new 1 din stereo.
Surprised it fought you that much. I did both my front doors and it was a breeze. OK I could have used a third hand to hold the door to get the hole on the arm to line up with the bracket to install the pin but even that was not a big deal. Did you find any plastic washers in yours?
My driver's side front door was really bad. Thought the passenger side front was fine. Until I put in the driver's side and realized how smooth they should move. When I did the passenger side I found a washer in there. Then I looked at my back doors and saw them too. Somehow I must have lost a couple. Hardware store solved that. The factory one is the top one in the picture and the bottom was the hardware store replacement.
10-14-2018, 01:27 PM
