jessenator

Took off ALL the interior trim :| (from the White Knight XJ)
But that means I'm selling it! Huzzah, filthy lucre!

The only stupid part were those seatbelt anchor bolts. Stripped my T50, but it was an excuse to get a full set of hardened Torx sockets :3 now the bolts strip...

I guess I should be glad the bolts are so hard to extricate; means the seatbelts won't... Oh well, got 'em all but the middle bench belt.

TimV

Maybe it's not my Cherokee but my vocabulary improved today.

Bugout4x4

I would be very interested in an update how it goes. In my own opinion I think a 12 would actually be plenty. 12 was already the standard for many many years. I'm running a 13 now in the second hottest environment in the US with absolutely no problems. I think this current trend is an exercise in "high pressure sales" (pun intended) so that they can sell more radiators, wouldn't be the first time the industry has done this over the years.

SatiricalHen

I’ve found using an impact is the best way to get torx bolts out. When using a wrench it’s too easy to lean over a bit and twist and strip it out. I stripped one under the backseat one time and just cut two flat spots in it and used an adjustable wrench to take it out.

RocketMouse

I just recently picked up a set of hardened T-bits on a 1/4" socket drive. And glad I did. Came in handy changing out the TPS the other day. With those little screws with a Torques head and soft as... I would've stripped them for sure if it weren't for those.

RocketMouse

Forgot to mention in my post the other day when I replaced the thermostat and housing on my XJ....
It was no wonder my fan had been coming on... I get the housing off and the previous owner had put the damn thing in upside down with the bypass air hole facing down.... and that's right where it had been leaking out of the water housing too. I guess the hole AND the fact that it was printed with an arrow and said the word UP wasn't a big enough clue for him.
I hope that's the only thing he touched on it under the hood. lol.... he shouldn't have been allowed near the business end of a car, that's the most basic replacement part there is.

....sorry just needed to vent. Couldn't believe it when I saw it.

SatiricalHen

Ordered axle sleeves, gussets, and frame stiffeners for it. Just need to find someone to help me put them on since I don’t have a welder strong enough.

cleenrob

started it up after about 4 weeks of sitting, bought a newer car after the trans line exploded on the highway, ad its pretty much just sat since.

trans is about 3 quarts low still after dumping 3 quarts in at a gas station to limp it home. dont have any money to put fluid in it :/ so i wont go on a drive thru the country side like i was going to. so i settled for replacing the broken drivers door window that i broke

SatiricalHen

35� mtrs

Poodle Head Mikey

1998 GC 4.0 w/auto

I don't recall having another thread about cooling.
I can't always remember everything. <g>
Jeep has no cooling issues now or previously.
Engine temps trend at about the thermostat setting.
Two new radiators blew their side tanks off.
18 lb. radiator caps were new and tested OK.
I am trying to accomplish not changing another radiator.
So I reduced the pressure cap to 7 lbs.

If, as you suggest; there is or might be something else wrong with the cooling system - can you tell me what those things might be? I'm open to any suggestion - especially as I can't think of anything except to try reducing the system pressure on the radiator side tank crimps.

PHM
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HappyPappy

Could be a blown head gasket, probably, but not impossible. I would take it to a shop and have them put a pressure test on it. Head gaskets don't always blow between cylinders. Could also get a brass radiator, they are made!

Poodle Head Mikey

A gasoline engine gets rid of the heat energy of the fuel pretty equally between exhaust, cooling system, and mechanical work - about 1/3 each. This is first semester thermodynamics stuff - so Chrysler is well aware of how things work.

Chrysler's cooling system for my GC requires 3500+ CFM across the radiator for adequate cooling. That is a huge number as compared to other vehicles.

Which means that Chrysler deliberately cheated us on the radiator sizing. <g>

When I think back to earlier cars with inline 6 gasoline engines I recall the radiators being much larger; 150% or more of this Jeep's radiator. And those vehicles had no AC condenser heat loading.

I'm not sure how mine will all end up but right now I'm going to try a 7 lb. cap and maybe eventually a 180º thermostat if it comes to that. It's winter now, even in Florida, so it's almost never over an 80º ambient now, and so the engine temp trends with the present thermostat rating. But when it's hot weather again I'll see if the coolant stays in place. <g>

Which reminds me: I think I'll direct the radiator overflow into some kind of container so I can easily monitor that.

One of my vague concerns is if the PCM monitors engine temperature and makes adjustments based on that data. And so: can 180º possibly upset something in the PCM function?

PHM
--------

Tbone289

Just have a ratchet strap handy for the trackbar. If it become mis-aligned, the strap will be enough to line it back up again.

It doesn't really matter on the order of the TRE replacements...

Bugout4x4

Something often forgotten in your calculations here is that there is actually quite a bit of additional air cooling in the mix, especially on the oil through the pan surface. More than one would think.

Tbone289

+1. Check system pressures and test for combustion gasses.

There's plenty of cooling available in an XJ, especially at 80 degrees ambient--if all cooling system components are working properly. What do you think you'll accomplish with a 180 degree thermostat? A cooler thermostat will have ZERO impact on the operating temperature of the coolant in your radiator, and you've drastically lowered the boiling point with the 7 lb cap. If the radiator is blowing tanks at 16 PSI, then it's the radiator's fault, plain and simple. There are plenty of us driving around in 100+ temps with stock and/or stock replacement cooling components with no issues. You should fix the system, rather than trying to re-engineer it.