I'd be willing to bet if those 10+ year old owners manuals were re-written today, they would be saying 0WXX or 5WXX motor oil......maybe, maybe not.

 

Hard to say, I have 240xxx on my dd and over 350xxx on my rig, always used 10w40, never had a problem. Im sure others have similar stories with different weights.

 

Purolator Pure 1 and RotellaT 10W30. Just started with Rotella on oil change last night and noticed much better oil pressure over Castrol.

 

OEM Mopar filter and Castrol Syntec 10W30 changed every 5000 or once a year, whatever comes first. I just changed the VC gasket at 88,000 and it was very clean inside.

 

5-10 years from now some drivers will be posting about 300K-400K miles using 0W20 and 5W20.

 

Wankel Engine?

 

fram filter and mobile 5000 10w-30 and throw in a bottle lucus oil sabilizer

 

Just started running a 50w race oil and k & n filter. My gas mileage when up a lot. I was getting about 12 to 15 now about 15 to 17. But i do live in hell i mean phoenix and the oil never gets a chance to cool down. When it does i will switch to a 20 50 or a 10 40 synthetic.

 

Purolator Filter, and Quaker 10w30 high mileage oil with a quart of Marvel Magic Oil

 

On BITOG, people seem to have good things to say about Rotella T6 5w-40, so that's what I'm using along with a Bosch filter. Seems like any HDEO works wonders in the 4.0L.

 

Maybe in those too.

 

They could get 210k outta those on 5w, maybe theyll double that.

 

Mobil 1 10w-30 and Mopar "090" (larger of the standard factory filters) or Bosch filter.
I think lighter synthetics are ok if you're not burnin' any and not pushing the physical limits of performance with your engine.
I think we would all like a little more fuel efficiency out of our 4.0's, right?

 

NAPA Gold filter/WIX (purolatro again next time, better pressure) and 10w30 Valvoline Max Life.

To all using FRAM filters, the only good FRAM filter is the TOugh Gaurd. The rest are made of cardboard inside. You don't want that collapsing and getting in to your engine. Their anti drainback valves suck too. Nothing like the motor not getting oil for 30 seconds every start to kill it.
Stick with Purolators, WIX, NAPA Gold, or if you MUST, only the FRAM Tough Gaurd.

Here's a nice resource:
http://minimopar.knizefamily.net/oilfilters/index.html
Look at the FRAM/Honeywell's filter materials used, filter surface area, drainback valve material etc. then look at WIX, then look at the Purolator Pure One. I use WIX or Pure One for a reason and avoid FRAM, although their TG doesn't totally suck in a pinch..

 

Fram tough with Castrol 10w30