jagerauto

So... I was out and about in a local mud hole that I have been to before.. It had been raining a lot and I didn't account for all that. Long story short I flew into a hole a little faster then I should have.. When I came to a rest I was up to the doors in water.

By then it was too late. I got pulled out by two polaris atv's and towed to the road. There I tried to pull the plugs and turn it over, which it did for a few rotations.. But a slight clank made me weary and something about oil pissing out by the starter isn't good. Then it locked up.

The kids who pulled me out videoed it an said they'd put it on YouTube but I can't find it hah.

Low and behold I'm putting a motor in my jeep.

Got a motor, traded two small rifles for it. Supposedly has 90k, it's an early 4.0 carbed which I hear has a better crank. After cracking it open I found a mess. Sludge built up for days. This motor sat clearly.

Put a new rear main seal in, pan gasket, valve cover gasket, water pump, oil pump, new motor mounts and some u joints while I'm at it.




Got the motor out.. Which was fun because the crank was locked up used an air hammer to spin the crank and free the rod that was wedged into the cam. To remove it, and get all the TC bolts.





I ran into only one issue.. New block doesn't have boss' for the coil.. Hmm

jagerauto

I skipped that problem and moved on.

Cleaning and painting everything. Why? Why not? It will look good for a while at least. Hah.





I even got a little fancy.


And putting it back in (tonight) should wrap it up this weekend! Whoop!



Two weeks turn around isn't bad this was my first 4.0 swap out.

Outlaw Star

Not bad. 4.0L were all EFI. The only way a carb was on there was someone bolted a 4.2L manifold adapter (like Cliffords) to it. I've been there on the hydrolocking, it sucks.

NFJ79

Good Luck!

jagerauto

Hmm ok I'm a noob, so I'm not sure. But the block was different for sure, intake and exhaust manis too. The intake had a throttle plate built into it. Now that I think about it it had injectors.. Stupid me

Outlaw Star

Lol. It's good, we all started learning somewhere. As for the coil boss, you can mount it to the fenderwell. Just be sure to ground it good.

jagerauto

Yea I figured. Ask me anything about a vw/Audi that's what I do for a living lol

jagerauto

Can't get the dam thing to run. Seems I can't get the timing good enough for it to idle. I can get it to run but very roughly and only under throttle. I have cut the ear off the dizzy to make it fully adjustable.


Getting a code 54 which is the pickup for the dizzy. But I'm not sure if maybe just the plug is screwed up or the code is in there because I had it unplugged at one time while cranking. But since has been plugged in and I'm not sure if the code would just disappear or not. But the jeep ran fine before with no codes. Maybe the water ruined the dizzy?



Also I have a vacuum line on the intake that I'm not sure where it goes. Also the port on the valve cover is empty.



And I hope my kickdown cable "fix" works

Outlaw Star

"Adjusting" the distributer housing really does nothing for these motors. The distributer is electronic advance type, not mechanical. The sensor in the distributer controls injector timing. It's a camshaft position sensor. And the crank position sensor (on the bellhousing) controls spark timing. The spare port on the intake connects to that spare port on the valve cover. It's your CCV system.

jagerauto

Is there a better way to put the distributer in and have it set right? Seems to be off when I try to put it in.

My only thing was trying to get the rotor right over #1 cylinder. Seems hard. But what your saying is if I have it clocked to make the spark timing correct the fuel timing does not get corrected?

Sounds like I just need to get a new dizzy and put it in the proper way.

So I guess the "swapping wires around to line up with the rotor wouldn't work either huh? Hah.

ej's xj

Put the motor at tdc and check where the distributor fits in at, if the rotor is off of where number one is on the cap then pull the distributor and take a flathead screwdriver and clock the oil pump/distributor drive back a little or forward a little depending in where the rotor is pointed. Could just be a tooth out

jagerauto

Yea what a pita lol

jagerauto

I just ordered a new dizzy and wires. Paid $10 for a set of wires and $44 for the dist. I get pretty good pricing through world PAC. whoop!

jagerauto

Ok so new issue.. Got it running. On the drive home a freeze plug came out and I lost all my coolant. It overheated on the highway and lost power.

Head is off at the machine shop.. Should I have a valve job done? I'm pressed for money at this point.. But I'm worried about the guides possibly being overheated.

I also bought a new kit of freeze plugs the last ones were universal from advance.. See how that worked out...

Also. I'm unsure on what head gasket to order or head bolts for that matter. My jeep is a 95 but I have no idea what year the motor is.

Outlaw Star

A valve job is always a good idea when the head is sent off to be reworked. Most shops down here only charge about 125 for the I6. That's clean, magnaflux,machine and valve job.