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Oil Change!
I want to find out what oil seems to keep the 242 running longer/better! Just answer some quick questions and lets find out what works best!
1: What brand do you run? 2: What weight do you run? 3: What filter do you run? 4: Any additives? 5: How often are your change intervals? 6: Do you believe in the 3,000 mile rule? 7: What is your current mileage? 8: What is your driving style? 9: What are your average driving conditions? 10: Do you run conventional or synthetic? Here are my Results 1) Valvoline 2) 10w30 for summer, fall and spring, winter is 5w30 3) K&N Wrench Off 4) Seafoam 5) Every 5,000 on average 6) Not at all. Take a look at how dirty your oil is and base it off of that 7) 70,130 8) I step on it every once in a while but mostly i keep it under 3000rpm 9) Streets and Snow, not a lot of dirt 10) Synthetic all the way! |
1: Whatevers on sale, right now it has Kendall Liquid Titanium in it (semi synth) Usually MC5000
2: 10w30, but I used 4 qts 530 and 2 10w30 last time. All they had in stock 3: Mopar m-090, Napa silver usually. Theyre the same filter, made by wix. (Bosch filter on it now, all they had in stock) 4: NO 5: Usually around 3500mi by the time I get the oil/filters 6: I still follow it, but know its not neccessary. 7: 237,000 8: I drive it hard, I like the skinny pedal 9: mostly highway 10: Usually conv. or semi synth. |
1: Castrol GTX (the frequency my oil gets changed im not paying for amazing oil)
2: 5w30 3: WIX 4: none 5: every 5000km if no wheeling is being done(only winter basically) if not every 3rd wheeling trip. 6: Within reason yes 7: 306 000km 8: I beat on it 9: Winter = Snow Summer = offroad every weekend and potholes like you wouldnt believe during the week. 10: Conventional, if it was a STRAIGHT DD and didnt get wheeled I'd run Synthetic. I'm thinking about running synthetic in the winter and conventional in the summer for my frequent changes. |
Originally Posted by OttawaXJ
(Post 779583)
1: Castrol GTX (the frequency my oil gets changed im not paying for amazing oil)
2: 5w30 3: WIX 4: none 5: every 5000km if no wheeling is being done(only winter basically) if not every 3rd wheeling trip. 6: Within reason yes 7: 306 000km 8: I beat on it 9: Winter = Snow Summer = offroad every weekend and potholes like you wouldnt believe during the week. 10: Conventional, if it was a STRAIGHT DD and didnt get wheeled I'd run Synthetic. I'm thinking about running synthetic in the winter and conventional in the summer for my frequent changes. |
1: Whatever is on sale.
2: 10w 30 and the occasional 10w 40 3: Fram 4: None 5: Between 3500-4500 6: Not really 7: 221,xxx 8: Depends on my mood. Most of the time normal but I am heavy on the gas every now and then 9: Streets on weekdays, mud on weekends, a little snow during the winter. 10:Conventional, I dont believe in the synthetic crap. |
Originally Posted by 1996XJSport
(Post 779595)
Not too bad. I run synthetic and I wheel every once in a while. Somehow my oil doesn't get that dirty. I'm starting to think the K&N filter is worth the extra money.
check out www.bobistheoilguy.com and decide what you like best. Personally I dont think K&N is worth it but thats a personal choice right. Theres some things I'll spend the extra moola on but when I'm changing my oil and filter as often as I do I dont see 20$ a filter making sense. Also keep in mind im the guy who buys WIX filters in packs of 50 and Oil in 20L pales. lol
Originally Posted by jmm0122
(Post 779599)
1: Whatever is on sale.
2: 10w 30 and the occasional 10w 40 3: Fram 4: None 5: Between 3500-4500 6: Not really 7: 221,xxx 8: Depends on my mood. Most of the time normal but I am heavy on the gas every now and then 9: Streets on weekdays, mud on weekends, a little snow during the winter. 10:Conventional, I dont believe in the synthetic crap. |
1. Mobil 1 full synthetic light truck
2. 5w-30 in winter 3. Fram tough guard 4. none 5. always 3,000 6. Hell yes 7. 101,000 miles 8. pretty aggressive 9. mostly street 10.Always full synthetic |
Originally Posted by OttawaXJ
(Post 779600)
May want to check out that link, you'll be ditching that fram as soon as you read a couple articles. lol. When I went on there the first thing I did was got in my truck and went to the store and bought 3 WIX filters and replaced the frams that were in my Ranger, Focus and XJ.
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Originally Posted by jmm0122
(Post 779620)
I have had enough xj's to know that they will pretty much run with sand in them. Haha. And of the 4 that I have owned I have put fram filters on them with no ill effects. My 87 had 340,000 miles on it when I sold her, my 95 had 240,000 when I totaled it, my 97 had 230,000 on it(sold to my dad) and as stated my 99 has 221,000 on it. All have had fram filters, with cheap oil. I dont think bob the oil guy has ever owned an xj.
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Originally Posted by jmm0122
(Post 779620)
I have had enough xj's to know that they will pretty much run with sand in them. Haha. And of the 4 that I have owned I have put fram filters on them with no ill effects. My 87 had 340,000 miles on it when I sold her, my 95 had 240,000 when I totaled it, my 97 had 230,000 on it(sold to my dad) and as stated my 99 has 221,000 on it. All have had fram filters, with cheap oil. I dont think bob the oil guy has ever owned an xj.
Personal preference again but for me, the WIX filters cost a little less than fram and are better so I see no reason to pay more for less right? My oil changes are a little over the top for most people but I like to stay on the safe side since a lot of the stuff I do is water crossings, fine dirt or really dirty stagnant water. |
I am using Mobil 1 synthetic EP,10W-30W, which they claim is good for 15,000 miles between changes. However, I am changing the filter, Wix, every 5000 to help keep the oil clean. At the end at 15K, the oil is brown, and not black. The oil is expensive at Walmart, but I think it is worth the money. The car has 141K miles, and does not burn any oil between filter changes. It is driven in the N GA mountians under varying conditions and the 4.0 is as good as new.
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As much as I loathe oil threads, here are my answers.
1: Amsoil - every fluid in every vehicle I own 2: MFG recommendation - for the 4.0L - 10W30 3: Amsoil Ea 4: Never 5: When the oil test results say it needs to be changed. Usually 20k or so. 6: Hell no. See #5. 7: 179,xxx 8: Fairly easy. I usually get about 22mpg. 9: 95% highway 10: Synthetic everywhere. Now a couple comments from a 15 year mechanical reliability engineer responsible for my site's tribology program. First: If you insist on changing your oil every 3000, or even every 5000 miles, you're wasting lots of money if you use synthetic oil. Buy the cheapest bobo brand dyno and you'll still be fine with those short intervals. Second: Synthetics are great. They offer better physical properties and wider operating extremes. But in general, unless you are going to push the mileage limits or temperature extremes, they will not be worth what you pay for them. and Third: I grew up with AMC straight sixes. I had Gremlins with 232's and 258's when I was first driving. My dad would run the used oil from our other cars in the gremlins. Those engines lasted for 237k and 324k respectively and they were still running when we junked the cars so worrying too much about the quality of your oil is probably not warranted with this motor. |
Originally Posted by 2Evil4U
(Post 780275)
As much as I loathe oil threads, here are my answers.
1: Amsoil - every fluid in every vehicle I own 2: MFG recommendation - for the 4.0L - 10W30 3: Amsoil Ea 4: Never 5: When the oil test results say it needs to be changed. Usually 20k or so. 6: Hell no. See #5. 7: 179,xxx 8: Fairly easy. I usually get about 22mpg. 9: 95% highway 10: Synthetic everywhere. Now a couple comments from a 15 year mechanical reliability engineer responsible for my site's tribology program. First: If you insist on changing your oil every 3000, or even every 5000 miles, you're wasting lots of money if you use synthetic oil. Buy the cheapest bobo brand dyno and you'll still be fine with those short intervals. Second: Synthetics are great. They offer better physical properties and wider operating extremes. But in general, unless you are going to push the mileage limits or temperature extremes, they will not be worth what you pay for them. and Third: I grew up with AMC straight sixes. I had Gremlins with 232's and 258's when I was first driving. My dad would run the used oil from our other cars in the gremlins. Those engines lasted for 237k and 324k respectively and they were still running when we junked the cars so worrying too much about the quality of your oil is probably not warranted with this motor. |
1. valvoline or rotella-t
2. 10w40 in the winter 15w40 in the summer 3. k&n 4. nope 5. usually about 3 or 4k 6. im sort of on the fence about that one 7. 130,000 8. im a little heavy footed, its a family trait :) 9. mix of street, mud, and trails 10. conventional |
1: Rotella (shell)
2: 5-40 3: Mopar or Baldwin or whatevers good and on sale.... 4: why? oil aint good enough? 5: once or twice a year. 6: no 7: about 132,000. just gettin broke in...... ;-) 8: easy. street use mild trail use. 9: usually warm days cold nights. high desert area. mountains in colorado. 10: synthetic. RTS |
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