np251

Hi guys

Been looking at a clean, 4wd, 4d 2000 sport with 86k. Power everything. Little surface rust. The seller is looking for 4K, but I think I can get him down considering the known issues with the original 0331 head. Guy says he doesn't know if it's been replaced or if it cracked in the past, but it runs fine (10 min test drive- not enough, I know).

Other than the known head issues, the coil rail and plugs and the quad catalytic converters, any other quirks with the 2000 that would make you avoid buying into one?

How much extra hassle are the 4 vs 2 cats? Coil rail have known issues?

Straight off- I hate leather seats, but I can put up with them if it runs well and I don't have to dump money into rebuilding a funky axle or brakes, for example.

Any info gratefully appreciated!!

RubenZ

I bought a similar one. 2000 Sport, 4wd, except i had 87-88k and no rust. Right off the bat, my 0331 head was cracked. replaced it with a clearwater cylinder head (beefier) and it is running great!! Very happy with this jeep. The only other issue I'm currently battling with right now is the Door Locks. They will LOCK with alarm remote, but not Unlock. I'm going to replace the passenger side control module to see if that fixes it.

Other than that, its been great. The only problem I'd check since they are old vehicles is all the bushings. My makes noises because the bushings on all the mounts for Stabilizers are shot etc.


So to go with your questions, the biggest issue really is that 0331 cylinder head. Other than that, you will find you're just going to be replacing little odds and ends that go bad from age.

np251

Thanks for the quick reply- I hadn't even managed to fix my edits yet!

Appreciate the input. Sounds like once the head is sorted, it should be great.

Also, my 1991 lost rear unlock from the remote due to a busted wire in the door jamb. Pulled the panel off and noticed a small nick that was shorting. Fixed it with a piece of electrical tape and it was fine until I sold it a year later.

RubenZ

Ya I'm hoping thats what it is. I had my door panels off when I installed the speakers and should have checked then. It's just where I live we've been battling temps in the 100+ range almost all summer long. Even today High is like 104 so waiting on cooler temps to really do work on my jeep lol.

70hemicuda

I got a 2000 at 110,000. around 157,000 now and running great. original head i assume so i always keep an eye on it. replaced the whole cooling system as preventive measure. no issues that ive dealt with that is 2000 specific, only difference like the 3 cats other stuff that was 2000 2001 only. no issues tho, just quirks.

Turbo X_J

You probably want to look at something entirely different. It's 16 years old, PO doesn't know ____________________________, reads as needs brand new everything.

np251

Nah, it's clean. Looks great- it's from a dealer and the guy I spoke with was like 22 and didn't know much about it.

I was more curious whether or not there are issues with the 2000 other than the 0331 head. About the only thing that comes up on a search for 2000 xj is the head issue and didn't want to later find out there are others, but they are overshadowed by the posts on the 0331

carbuff

My 2000 has 206k on it. It has an 0331 head on it but I dont know if its original. My only problem that would be particular to this year would be heat soak from the cats. I believe the 3 cats tend to boil the gas out of the #3 injector when it sits for a while after shutting it down in the heat. Luckily its a winter vehicle for me so it was not an issue. But when this did happen it would be hard to start, run rough for a bit and throw a code for cyl 3 misfire. Once it cleared up within minutes, I would use my code reader to clear all codes and it would be fine until the next time it happened. Sometimes days, sometimes weeks. But never an issue in the cool weather. I think its fairly common on the 3 cat models.

np251

Thanks for the response. That's some great info. It doesn't sound like much of an issue though. I'll check the forums to see how bad that could get- it's currently 98of where I'm at, so it's something that might crop up here during DD.

np251

For a DD, and occasional weekends on fire-roads, but no real rock crawling- is the LP Dana 30 something to worry about?

extrashaky

That's easy to find out. Just look down through the oil filler cap. All of the replacement 0331s with thicker decks have either a word or numbers cast into the top of the deck right there, whereas the original casting had no casting marks there. If it's "blank," it's an original 0331. If you can see letters or numbers there, it's either a later 0331 or an aftermarket replacement.

At 86K, it probably has not been replaced. They usually get quite a few more miles on them before they crack.

The CA emissions version had three cats (two precats up front, one in the rear) and four O2 sensors. However, have you checked to see if that's actually what this Jeep has? In 2000 there was also an EPA emissions package that only had a single cat like the prior years, with only two O2 sensors. Where the precats are on the CA version, the EPA version just has twin pipes. You can look up under the manifold to see which it is, or you can just look at the sticker on the firewall on the driver's side. It will specify which emissions standard was met.

Obviously the EPA version is more desirable.

Not much, as long as everything is working. However, if the front cats fail, they are rather expensive to replace. A bolt-in OEM-type Walker replacement downpipe with both cats in it is $200 to $250, depending on where you get it. If you want high flow replacements, Magnaflow runs about $750. You can buy generic replacements and have them welded in, but it's a little more involved than welding in a rear because of the way they fit between the exhaust manifolds and the crossover pipe. You have more places it all has to line up.

Also, with four O2 sensors, you have twice as many chances for O2 sensor wiring issues. These things are at an age now where that kind of problem is getting common.

Not that it would make me avoid it, but you should be aware that the '00 and '01 came with a low pinion Dana 30 front axle, whereas '99 and earlier all had high pinion D30s. The LP version is slightly weaker, loses a tiny bit of ground clearance and increases the angle of the drive shaft slightly if you lift it. It's not uncommon for people to swap in a high pinion D30 from an earlier year, but if you swap the axle without a lift, the front drive shaft can potentially bang into the exhaust.

Just something to keep in mind if you're planning a build.

Also, as carbuff noted above, the '00 and '01 had a known issue with heat soak. It will start fine when cold and will run fine as long as liquid fuel is flowing. If you stop somewhere for a few minutes and shut it off, heat soak vaporizes the fuel in the #3 injector. If it sits long enough, the fuel will cool off and turn back to liquid, and you'll have no problem. But if you just run into a store or something and come back within 15-20 minutes, it may resist cranking and run rough until enough liquid fuel runs through the injector to cool it off and clear out the vapor.

There's actually a TSB for it where you put some heat shielding around the #3 injector, and some people have had success shielding the underside of the intake manifold. Installing hood vents can also get rid of it, since then the heat has a chimney and doesn't just sit there under the hood baking the intake.

Again, that's not something I would let prevent me from buying one.

Is it a Limited? Either way, if you don't like the leather, there are plenty of people who would be willing to buy those seats off you or trade you their cloth seats. Every time I see a leather set in a junkyard, it's gone the first weekend the Jeep is on the yard. I wouldn't trade my leather for cloth any day of the week.

The heat soak issue is not limited to the 3-cat version. The single-cat EPA version available in 2000 would also do that.

np251

regarding the heat soak issue, and the seemingly overly complicated EFan timer mods people are doing- why not go thermo based and hook up an Efan controller thermostat? $30. Run a new 12v + to the controller input, output goes into the fan directly - 20 amp rating will handle single fan, but it's easy to figure out the required relay circuit if needed. Stick the probe next to injector 3, and have it set to turn off after a 20-30 degree drop. It'll run maybe 5 mins.

I had to use this fan controller method when I converted my 90 to a 91 cooling system. Upgraded radiator and everything else, hooked up controller as described and it worked awesome. The fan would stay on for 3-4 minutes after ignition off and key out-- just like my wife's Honda.