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How long to do a head gasket

Old 12-07-2011, 05:45 PM
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Default How long to do a head gasket

how long would it take to do a head gasket on a 98 cherokee. Any idea on how much it would cost if i did it my self.
Old 12-07-2011, 06:06 PM
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it'll cost you the price of a head gasket set (80 bucks at autozone) and new head bolts (36 bucks at autozone), as well as coolant and oil. it's about a 8-10 hour job for the average joe. Parts will be cheaper at say... rockauto.com, You will be needing a deep well 12 point 1/2 inch socket for the head bolts, a valve spring compressor, and a torque wrench... aside from stuff that you'd usually find in a mechanics tool set.
Old 12-07-2011, 06:07 PM
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I did my 90 MJ in 2006 and took about 4 1/2 hours the bigest pain is the manifolds. The cost wasn't bad $100 or so.
Old 12-07-2011, 06:13 PM
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4.0 in the mj? guess you're not the average joe... lol
Old 12-07-2011, 06:17 PM
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on the manifolds, a 14mm racheting wrench is definately a big help.
Old 12-07-2011, 07:45 PM
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Originally Posted by Donnie_K
it'll cost you the price of a head gasket set (80 bucks at autozone) and new head bolts (36 bucks at autozone), as well as coolant and oil. it's about a 8-10 hour job for the average joe. Parts will be cheaper at say... rockauto.com, You will be needing a deep well 12 point 1/2 inch socket for the head bolts, a valve spring compressor, and a torque wrench... aside from stuff that you'd usually find in a mechanics tool set.
Why a valve spring compressor? I done mine in about 8 hours, couldd have finished it in 6 1/2-7 hourd if i wanted. No need to remove the intake and exhaust manifold if you have a cherry picker or a friend there to help you lift the head off the block. Also remember the back driver side stud needs to be placed in the head before you set it on the block due to firewall clearance. Some all thread studs in the headbolt holes will make it easier to get the head seated on the block evenly , once the head is on replace the studs with the headbolts and torque to secquince and spec. Fyi you can reuse the factory headbolts once without having to buy new ones. Anothe fyi one of the bolts has to have thread sealer on it, not regular loctite but thread sealer as the bolt goes through a water jacket. I believe its the front corner passenger side but dont quote me. A valve spring compressor isnt necessary unles you plan to replace the valve stem seals, if your not burning oil its not totally necessary but you can do it if ya want. Any machine shop will do this for you for around $20

Last edited by knuckleduster271; 12-07-2011 at 07:51 PM.
Old 12-07-2011, 08:47 PM
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I replaced my entire cylinder head earlier this year. Took my time and it was a breeze.No valve spring compressor needed. And yes the manifolds are a PITA.

The one bolt that is mentioned needs a thread sealer. I searched around and found that ACE Hardware sells some stuff called "PIPE THREAD COMPOUND TFE PASTE" its the exact same stuff as the Loctite stuff,and the Loctite stuff is pretty spendy and hard to find(except online)This way you can go to your local ACE and have the stuff the same day. I got a 1 Fl Oz tube for less than $5.00.Why spend all the money on the Loctite stuff when this stuff from ACE is the same stuff,cheaper and available locally?

If I could find a Cheap MJ or XJ or any other Jeep with a 4.0 and all it needed was a head gasket,I wouldnt hesitate purchasing it. It appears to be a huge job,but its REALLY straight forward and simple.

Take your time,take lots of pics for reference,tag and bag bolts/nuts and consult this website with any questions(even the obvious and dumb ones) and youll have zero trouble accomplishing the job. Youll feel much more satisfaction doing it yourself,over having a shop do it for you. And then with the experience,you can help others who are thinking about tackling the job.

The head bolts can be reused once. Its suggested that you put a dab of whit paint on top if you do decide to reuse them,that way in the future for yourself or someone else,this can be reference that the bolts need to be replaced/

If you decide to do the job yourself,pm me anytime you need assistance,and ill attempt to help you out. Keep in mind I can only give you hints and tips on what worked for me,but yours really shouldnt be too much different.If you decide to tackle the job yourself,I wish you luck.

Last edited by 90_cherokee; 12-07-2011 at 08:56 PM.
Old 12-08-2011, 05:54 AM
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Valve spring compresser because the gasket set comes with new valve seals. Why would you have the head off for a gasket and not change those while you're in there? Doesn't make sense to leave yourself open to having to buy another head gasket when you have to pull the head down the road to change valve seals...
Old 12-08-2011, 10:21 AM
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I scanned the other replies and didn't see any advice to rebuild the head while it's off.. That gasket blew for a reason, and even if it didn't overheat and warp, a '98 probably has plenty of miles to warrant a valve grindin' and some new guides. I had mine done (with resurfacing) and using old valves for under $100
Oh yeah.. those manifold bolts are a joy to fiddle with
Old 12-08-2011, 03:38 PM
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Originally Posted by kjc
I scanned the other replies and didn't see any advice to rebuild the head while it's off.. That gasket blew for a reason, and even if it didn't overheat and warp, a '98 probably has plenty of miles to warrant a valve grindin' and some new guides. I had mine done (with resurfacing) and using old valves for under $100
Oh yeah.. those manifold bolts are a joy to fiddle with
Just because you have the head off doesnt mean you have to do valve stem seals, they can be done by simply removing the valve cover without ever removing the head, i also dont understand why everone takes the manifolds off to do the head gasket, its super simple on the bench- pita in the vehicle. I always pull heads off with intake/exhaust manifolds attached.

Last edited by knuckleduster271; 12-08-2011 at 03:41 PM.
Old 12-08-2011, 04:57 PM
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well, to replace valve stem seals without taking the head off, you have to have a different type of valve spring compresser, and an air compressor with a fitting to screw into the spark plug holes to hold the valves closed so they don't drop into the cylinder... but since you're already changing the head gasket... and the seals come with the head gasket set... why would anyone in their right mind not change them while they have the head off anyway? sheesh
Old 12-08-2011, 05:13 PM
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I usually dont lol.. usually if you have a bad seal its due to a bad valve and i dont wanna spend the extra $$ on getting the head redone if its not necessary. Around here most shops charge $2-300 to redo heads. I got better things to spend money on if its not broke.. I guess im cheap lol Half the time i dont even buy a complete head gasket set- just the head gasket itself and whatever i need thats in the way of the headgasket
Old 12-08-2011, 05:18 PM
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Dont forget to use a swivel for the driverside rear head bolt. The way the firewall is it doesnt allow a line drive when setting that bolt (No matter how hard you try.)
Old 07-11-2018, 03:36 AM
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Default Everything you need to know.

Originally Posted by Lostfisher1
how long would it take to do a head gasket on a 98 cherokee. Any idea on how much it would cost if i did it my self.
It is about a 4 hour job if your knowledge of the 4.0 is adequate and you don't stop to eat or take a break. For the average person my guess is about six. Take your grounds off the head, one on the rear driver side headbolt, one on the side of the block, disconnect the throttle body, take off your air filter, and if you have the stock box, take it out, take out the Power steering pump, unbolt the manifolds, take them off, unbolt the ac compressor, unbolt your spark rail, or pull out your distributor wires, Remove thermostat housing, and lower radiator hose from the block, then finally remove the valve cover, the rocker arms and the lifters, and take your head off.

Note: If you have a 2000-2001, I suggest swapping heads and finding a way to keep your coil on plug, I put aluminum brackets off the valve cover bolts to hold the spark rail to the plugs.

Note: The rear right head bolt is a pain in the behind, make sure you put it in when you go to put the head back on.

Note: The front right (drivers side) head bolt goes into the cooling jacket.

Note: Ensure the intake manifold is on the studs before you tighten the bolts, and put them on there pretty tight, if there is an intake leak, your engines vacuum will be virtually non-existent, causing 1. Your engine to run horribly, and 2. Your motor will literally runaway like a runaway diesel, redline itself to death.

Note: Make sure to resurface the head, I suggest using acetone, it really works miracles on engine parts.

Suggestion: Lap your valves while you're at it, it makes the engine breathe a lot better, and your 4.0 will sound so good.

Suggestion: Soak your cylinders in acetone, finish by wiping the head of the piston and the bore and clearing of any carbon buildup.

Suggestion: Port your intake and exhaust holes in the head.
Old 08-24-2022, 12:35 PM
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Default Need help buttoning down head gasket on jeep grand Cherokee lerado 4.

Is there a certain order u use to tighten down bolts..a certain pattern?

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