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How to get the most life out of my high mileage 4.0
Hi i have a 1996 jeep cherokee country it has 225k miles on the engine, what steps should i take to get the most life out of the engine i can squeeze out. I am already looking to put in some synthetic oil but what else can i do?
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ditch the synthetic and go shell rotella t5 or t6. its good stuff
seafoam the engine, oil, and gas tank (bg44k is some good stuff too) stick to the facrory service schedule and youll be good, and use quality stuff |
Originally Posted by cleenrob
(Post 3011649)
ditch the synthetic and go shell rotella t5 or t6. its good stuff
seafoam the engine, oil, and gas tank (bg44k is some good stuff too) stick to the facrory service schedule and youll be good, and use quality stuff I'd avoid the seafoam in the oil (it can clean too fast breaking gunk loose that clogs oil passages or the pick up screen, Rotella has enough detergent it will do a pretty good job of cleaning up the engine itself, but more slowly and safely than dumping in a solvent), though it or bg44k (bg44k is the better option if you can get it) for the fuel tank is a good idea, make sure to change the fuel filter as well. Above all else make sure to use a good filter (avoid Fram like the plague, they are crap), Wix/Napa, Purolator/Bosch, Baldwin, Hastings, Mobil1/K&N, and Motorcraft are all good options. You can run a filter for an "old" Ford 302/351 (Motorcraft FL-1A, Purolator L/PL30001, Wix 51515/Napa 1515, etc.) for additional filter area and oil capacity (about twice the size of the OE Mopar filter). Like cleenrob said keep up on the Maintenance (especially the cooling system) and if you don't know when the fluids were last changed change them all. Likewise if you don't know when the last tune-up (plugs, wires, cap & rotor) was done go ahead and do one, note: the 4.0L I6 likes cheap copper plugs (Champion RC12LYC/RC12ECC or NGK ZFR5N are usually recommended) and tends to run better on them than platinums. 4.0L I6s easily go 300k mi+ with proper maintenance. |
Originally Posted by dmill89
(Post 3011684)
T6 is synthetic (and T5 is a synthetic-blend) but I'll second the recommendation it is good oil and very reasonably priced.
I'd avoid the seafoam in the oil (it can clean too fast breaking gunk loose that clogs oil passages or the pick up screen, Rotella has enough detergent it will do a pretty good job of cleaning up the engine itself, but more slowly and safely than dumping in a solvent), though it or bg44k (bg44k is the better option if you can get it) for the fuel tank is a good idea, make sure to change the fuel filter as well. Above all else make sure to use a good filter (avoid Fram like the plague, they are crap), Wix/Napa, Purolator/Bosch, Baldwin, Hastings, Mobil1/K&N, and Motorcraft are all good options. You can run a filter for an "old" Ford 302/351 (Motorcraft FL-1A, Purolator L/PL30001, Wix 51515/Napa 1515, etc.) for additional filter area and oil capacity (about twice the size of the OE Mopar filter). Like cleenrob said keep up on the Maintenance (especially the cooling system) and if you don't know when the fluids were last changed change them all. Likewise if you don't know when the last tune-up (plugs, wires, cap & rotor) was done go ahead and do one, note: the 4.0L I6 likes cheap copper plugs (Champion RC12LYC/RC12ECC or NGK ZFR5N are usually recommended) and tends to run better on them than platinums. 4.0L I6s easily go 300k mi+ with proper maintenance. |
Changing your oil every 3k miles is about one of the most important things you can do for your 4 liter.
Like others are recommending, Shell Rotella is great. That's all I use now. I also run a NAPA gold oil filter, also the best. |
yup, i run T5 in mine, i felt the t6 (5w40) was to thick, but i love the T5 (10w30)
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