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96 xj 4.0 engine swap in a 90 xj

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Old 04-27-2016, 06:42 AM
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Default 96 xj 4.0 engine swap in a 90 xj

Hello,

New member first post. I have a motor and tranny from a 96 xj and i want to put it in my 90 xj. What must be done to do this?

Thanks
Old 04-28-2016, 08:17 AM
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Do you NEED the tranny? A 90 transfer case won't mate to a 96 trans.

Engine only? Super simple:


Cruiser’s HO into Renix Swap

This swap is easier than some will lead you to believe, generally those who have never done it. Those of us who have done it, like myself, will share with you the things that need to be done for a successful swap. Just think of it as swapping in a long block.

The HO and Renix have some differences but none that can’t be overcome very easily.

Any HO engine from an XJ or ZJ through 1999 can be used. One running change was that the rear of the head was no longer drilled and tapped for the temperature gauge sender beginning in the 96 model year. The sender can be relocated to the threaded hole in the thermostat housing taken from the HO engine. You’ll have to extend the wire to that location. Some brave souls even drill and tap the HO head for the sender.

You will be using the intake and exhaust manifolds from your Renix, along with all your sensors and wiring. Since the intake ports of the HO are slightly different, you use the Renix gasket. Exhaust ports are identical.
You will need to use your Renix distributor as it is different than the HO because they use different fuel management systems. The flywheel or flexplate from the Renix must be used so your CPS gets the correct signals. The valve cover from the Renix allows you to keep your CCV system intact and requires no modifications.

The HO block will have a plug in the coolant galley on the driver’s side of the block, closest to the front, which needs to be removed so your Coolant Temp Sensor can be installed in it’s place just as it is on the Renix. It requires a 5/16” square drive or a modified 3/8” drive that has been ground down to fit. Do this before installing the engine.

As for the knock sensor, which is located just above the oil pan on the driver’s side of the engine about mid way, all the blocks I’ve seen are threaded for it. If not, I’ve heard they may be drilled but not tapped. Tap the hole if that’s the case.


Revised 03/28/13
Old 04-29-2016, 08:43 AM
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Originally Posted by cruiser54
Do you NEED the tranny? A 90 transfer case won't mate to a 96 trans.

Engine only? Super simple:


Cruiser’s HO into Renix Swap

This swap is easier than some will lead you to believe, generally those who have never done it. Those of us who have done it, like myself, will share with you the things that need to be done for a successful swap. Just think of it as swapping in a long block.

The HO and Renix have some differences but none that can’t be overcome very easily.

Any HO engine from an XJ or ZJ through 1999 can be used. One running change was that the rear of the head was no longer drilled and tapped for the temperature gauge sender beginning in the 96 model year. The sender can be relocated to the threaded hole in the thermostat housing taken from the HO engine. You’ll have to extend the wire to that location. Some brave souls even drill and tap the HO head for the sender.

You will be using the intake and exhaust manifolds from your Renix, along with all your sensors and wiring. Since the intake ports of the HO are slightly different, you use the Renix gasket. Exhaust ports are identical.
You will need to use your Renix distributor as it is different than the HO because they use different fuel management systems. The flywheel or flexplate from the Renix must be used so your CPS gets the correct signals. The valve cover from the Renix allows you to keep your CCV system intact and requires no modifications.

The HO block will have a plug in the coolant galley on the driver’s side of the block, closest to the front, which needs to be removed so your Coolant Temp Sensor can be installed in it’s place just as it is on the Renix. It requires a 5/16” square drive or a modified 3/8” drive that has been ground down to fit. Do this before installing the engine.

As for the knock sensor, which is located just above the oil pan on the driver’s side of the engine about mid way, all the blocks I’ve seen are threaded for it. If not, I’ve heard they may be drilled but not tapped. Tap the hole if that’s the case.


Revised 03/28/13
Thank you very much i apprieciate it. Sounds easier than i thought it to be. And as far as the tranny as far as i know mine is in good condition so i dont need it.

Thanks again
Old 04-29-2016, 05:09 PM
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You're welcome. Enjoy your Jeep!!!

And, any questions along the way, ask them in this thread.
Old 04-30-2016, 12:15 AM
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Originally Posted by cruiser54
Do you NEED the tranny? A 90 transfer case won't mate to a 96 trans.

Engine only? Super simple:


Cruiser’s HO into Renix Swap

This swap is easier than some will lead you to believe, generally those who have never done it. Those of us who have done it, like myself, will share with you the things that need to be done for a successful swap. Just think of it as swapping in a long block.

The HO and Renix have some differences but none that can’t be overcome very easily.

Any HO engine from an XJ or ZJ through 1999 can be used. One running change was that the rear of the head was no longer drilled and tapped for the temperature gauge sender beginning in the 96 model year. The sender can be relocated to the threaded hole in the thermostat housing taken from the HO engine. You’ll have to extend the wire to that location. Some brave souls even drill and tap the HO head for the sender.

You will be using the intake and exhaust manifolds from your Renix, along with all your sensors and wiring. Since the intake ports of the HO are slightly different, you use the Renix gasket. Exhaust ports are identical.
You will need to use your Renix distributor as it is different than the HO because they use different fuel management systems. The flywheel or flexplate from the Renix must be used so your CPS gets the correct signals. The valve cover from the Renix allows you to keep your CCV system intact and requires no modifications.

The HO block will have a plug in the coolant galley on the driver’s side of the block, closest to the front, which needs to be removed so your Coolant Temp Sensor can be installed in it’s place just as it is on the Renix. It requires a 5/16” square drive or a modified 3/8” drive that has been ground down to fit. Do this before installing the engine.

As for the knock sensor, which is located just above the oil pan on the driver’s side of the engine about mid way, all the blocks I’ve seen are threaded for it. If not, I’ve heard they may be drilled but not tapped. Tap the hole if that’s the case.


Revised 03/28/13
Dang I didn't realize it was that easy! Thats good to know.
Old 04-30-2016, 07:06 AM
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Originally Posted by Tough Luck off Road
Dang I didn't realize it was that easy! Thats good to know.
It's so easy.....
Old 01-16-2023, 01:04 PM
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Default I know this thread is old but I need help…

I have a 1990 jeep Cherokee that I have done a high output swap from a 96 Cherokee that I rolled I put the 96 throttlebody on there the 96 intake manifold, 96 exhaust manifold, cold air intake, 12 hole injectors, aluminum billet fuel rail, and the fuel pump from the 96 as I deleted the original fuel pressure regulator, and then the 96 the fuel pressure regulator was in the pump my jeep runs like **** and I’m trying to find out how I can fix this issue. It seems like the fuel to air ratio is off. Also I just read on one of the forms that you would need the flex plate so the crank position sensor gets the right reading. Is that possibly causing an issue?
Old 01-16-2023, 02:19 PM
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Originally Posted by TaylorsXJ
I have a 1990 jeep Cherokee that I have done a high output swap from a 96 Cherokee that I rolled I put the 96 throttlebody on there the 96 intake manifold, 96 exhaust manifold, cold air intake, 12 hole injectors, aluminum billet fuel rail, and the fuel pump from the 96 as I deleted the original fuel pressure regulator, and then the 96 the fuel pressure regulator was in the pump my jeep runs like **** and I’m trying to find out how I can fix this issue. It seems like the fuel to air ratio is off. Also I just read on one of the forms that you would need the flex plate so the crank position sensor gets the right reading. Is that possibly causing an issue?

See Post 2.
Old 02-24-2023, 07:03 AM
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I just read on one of the forms that you would need the flex plate so the crank position sensor gets the right reading.

Last edited by mike paner; 02-24-2023 at 09:11 AM.
Old 02-24-2023, 07:14 AM
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Originally Posted by mike paner
I just read on one of the forms that you would need the flex plate so the crank position sensor gets the right reading.

Read Post 2. Everything you need to do. Easy peasy.
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