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Originally Posted by DenimDean
(Post 2995985)
I wouldn't, but it's up to you. It's a downgraded version of the ones they have online. It has a plastic wire feed, smaller/less beefy ground clamp, and less wire speed settings if I remember right. Edit: I do know, for a fact, that does apply to the Lincoln welders. The ones they sell at Lowe's are garbage. |
Originally Posted by BNJeepsta
(Post 2996100)
That must only apply to the 110v welders because my Handler 190 has the exact same internals as my 210MVP Miller, aside from the multi-voltage plug. And I bought my 190 from my local tractor supply. Edit: I do know, for a fact, that does apply to the Lincoln welders. The ones they sell at Lowe's are garbage. |
i have a lincoln 140c and it's all metal internals and non potted control dials.
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Originally Posted by caged
(Post 2996105)
i have a lincoln 140c and it's all metal internals and non potted control dials.
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it is. it's only a 110v but great little machine on gas.
i do have a 220v mig as well, but it's a thermal arc. |
I used a 110v Miller for years until I upgraded to my 220v Hobart. The only reason I went bigger was because, even though the manufacturer says the 110's will weld 1/4", that doesn't mean you're getting good penetration (that's what she said). With the 220, I know that it's gonna burn in deep enough. I personally, wouldn't buy or make anything structural that was 1/4" thick and welded with a 110v welder.
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Truuu.
My longevity 140 is a 110 unit and can throw down, but like you said it's not burning as hot as a 220 can on 1/4". I've got a 220 to use, but most of the time my 110 stays plugged in. I'll get a shot of the beads tomorrow. Here are my weld on rock rings: Attachment 261198 |
Originally Posted by 94XjSport94
(Post 2996242)
Truuu.
My longevity 140 is a 110 unit and can throw down, but like you said it's not burning as hot as a 220 can on 1/4". I've got a 220 to use, but most of the time my 110 stays plugged in. I'll get a shot of the beads tomorrow. Here are my weld on rock rings: |
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Today's project, putting the bumper back on this trailer..
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Hello, is there any one here in this thread work in a shop or know of a shop in the skagit, island county area that welds aluminum and would be willing to help a guy with a wheel experiment? Here is my idea, I buy myself a 5th turbine stile stock Cherokee wheel and a different Cherokee aluminum wheel that I plan to cut a 2" wide band out of the middle of. Then cut the turbine in half and weld the band from the other one to the turbine thusly in theory making a wider stock wheel that I can run my 33x12.5 on. I really like the turbine wheel. Any constructive thoughts?
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My opinion... Don't do it, its not worth the chance of wheel failure...
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Originally Posted by wiggles
(Post 2999595)
My opinion... Don't do it, its not worth the chance of wheel failure...
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used to be a crankcase welder for electromotive diesel welding on these blocks, whole motor got assembled at that location, now Im doing food grade stainless steel, lots of tig
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Food grade quality is a PITA.
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Just some of the beads I've been running at work lately...1/8" plate to .120 wall square tube
Attachment 261942 Attachment 261943 ...run on panels like these...22' long. Several start/stops in there, LMAO Attachment 261944 |
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