AdamG8GXP

So I got around to fixing the floors and found someone who would weld them in as a side job for pretty cheap. Now his welder sucks and it very easy to burn right thru new 18 gauge floors and there are gaps. We are putting in the new pans on top of old ones (again, cheap) and they are primed on the bottom.

I was thinking of sealing the gaps and all the way around the pans with black RTV or caulk.

What is good to use for sealing inside a vehicle to stand heat, cold, have no fumes and smell when dried (I know asphalt will melt and smell in the summer)?

Here are pic of the floor in my 1994 Cherokee Sport 4.0L, manual, 4x4

eking81

i would say before just welding new pans on top of all that rust you need to take a closer look at whats rusted

in that second pic the cord is blocking the veiw a bit but it looks like the brace that supports the seat is rusted through if thats the case your seat isnt supported by anything other then the floor pan which isnt good

if your going to do it do it right and fix what needs to be fixed i had the same problems and going cheap is just going to delay major problem for a short time

i would cut otu the rusted area fix the brace paint it all then add in pans if your going about it cheaply and easily without replaceing the entire floor

the brace needs to be fixed however you do it so that the seat is secured properly

AdamG8GXP

I know exactly what you mean about doing it right. The thing is if the OEM floors lasted 17 years, these will last some time too. And it has 256k miles so something might break before that anyway. I want to wheel it but only place is Badlands off road park in IN, which is 5 hours away each way, so not really into wheeling because of that.

But thanks for the seat support tip. I will take a look at it and make sure it is ok.

eking81

where are you located that badlands is 5 hours i might know somewhere closer to you if your in illinois

ol'DixieJeep

cut all the rust out first!!! after you weld the new pan in, use "seamsealer" its what we used when i worked at the body shop. you can find it at most automotive store. its what the factory uses to seal sheet metal parts together.

AdamG8GXP

He can't weld the pan all the way around. It burns thru it. He might spot weld it.
1. With spot welding, is it even worth it? I keep reading about how Cherokee is a unibody and needs its panels to be completely welded for structural integrity, this makes sense to me. If I go with spot welding, I think I might as well go with self with self tapping screws and fire the guy (agreement is $200 but for welding them in completely all the way around). Thoughts?
2. What do I lose by spot welding and using self tapping screws for new pans instead of welding them in completely?

AdamG8GXP

Willowbrook, IL mostly and in Franklin Park, IL sometimes.

AdamG8GXP

THanks for the tip. I rather use this than roofing tar.

ol'DixieJeep

no problem. and yes WELD the whole thing. you have to use spot welds. one every 4in then do it again and again and again until its fully welded.

example
- - - - -
-- -- -- -- --
--- --- --- --- ---
-------------------

milehigh94xj

Cut out rust,spot weld allover new floors then weld some short beads over the spot welds then ryno line or few coats of paint.

AdamG8GXP

Thanks. This is great idea. When doing a bead it would burn the pan.

The Blacksmith

bedliner dosent seal metal, if someone put it over rust or bare metal, it will still rust eventually and force the liner up. There are also better options than rhinoliner.

make sure the 200 bucks also covers welding the new floor pans to the unibody rail. I'd tell you to look at my total floor replacement thread pics, but I exceeded bandwidth again this month so they are down for another week or so

your best bet for sealing the metal is to paint it on both sides with chassis saver after its welded in, perferably 2 - 3 coats. After that the same company makes a bedliner called monstaliner, and its the hands down industry leader in DIY liners, and is still sold by the company who makes it, Magnet Paints, who actually advertise it as a truck bed and jeep liner, and are advid supporters of the jeep world.

AdamG8GXP

@The Blacksmith,

I have read your thread. That looked beautiful. Mine is rushed and cheap. I can't find a place to wheel so its just winter Jeep for now.
I will get a welder when I have my own garage and space for all the tools. And tools to make tools.

I do have small can of Chasis Saver for underbody. Inside I use something cheaper I think, prime, paint, 3m undercoat ro something. Second skin sound deadening, old carpet.

The rail you are talking about, is it below in the middle of the pan, and also on the tunnel, and side by the door?

AdamG8GXP

My guy is scared to death of welding cargo are because of gas tank.

Does welding the cargo area is a fire problem?
Empty or full gas tank?

ol'DixieJeep

drop the tank!!!!!!


and the best rust inhibitor is a paint. its POR-15 i use it all of my mopar muscle cars when stripped and i find pitting. luckily i have had 99% rust free cars.

and remember to use seam sealer after you weld. its a brush on application. It is made specifically to do this.