Jeeeeep

http://www.google.com/products/catal...CAcQ8wIwADgA#p



Will this pipe bender style bend 2" pipe past 90 degrees for stinger bumpers? Will it work well for roll cages?
Found one for 500 bucks.


IF not... what are your suggestions for a bender? THANKS!!!

posjeepxj

i think it will kink. dies need mandrels

try trick tools

Jeeeeep

I hate to ask this but,.... What exactly makes a mandrel bender? compared to this?

PingPong

I cant explain how it works.. but that right there will kink DOM or HREW. It might be fine for conduit or pipe, but I have yet to hear of anyone having any luck with that style bender with any tubing

Lightfoot

Check out www.jd2.com

I think this is a good one. When I get the money to buy one this will be it.

offroadnut36

You need a TUBE bender not a PIPE bender I heard the JD2 series are great And the Tube sharks ( I think thats what they're called???)

Jeep450r

Are you installing a sprinkler or sewer system on/in your jeep?

Pipe is for flushing your poop away.
Tube is for bumpers and roll cages.

Check out the ProTools 105 Bender. You can get a killer discount on one through TMR Customs over on Pirate4x4.

nick_n_ii

A "tube" bender, bends a tube by pulling it over a die. Not forcing it into shape.

TrollHammer

I don't know why, but for some reason we ahve one of those around work. I've used it more for straightening stuff then bending, as it's never not kinked anythinng (I even tried thin square off to the side and beat it as I went, still kinked!) Personally, I'll not get one.

My dad had some luck with one he got of a similar type, made handrails and such, but of course, echoing everyone else, that was schedual 80 pipe, not tubing. He was able to do 180 deg somehow. I watched him do it and still don't understand, as the posts on the sides have to have something to push against. A mandrel, as I understand, works from one side of the bend and works through the sweep, and the sweep can be any angle up to however long the mandrel is.

Another thing about that particular pipe bender: The bend radius is strictly dependant on the diameter, and you cannot buy other dies for different sizes, as far as I know. A mandrel, as I understand, can have a variety of bend radiuses for a given size, depending on the type and support from the company. Nothing against Westward (I've never had things break from them at least), but they seem to be more concerned about getting one of every type of tool out, not specializing in any particular one, so there's not much support for that bender. Oh, and if you leave it set up for an extended period of time, the fluid can leak out without letting you know, and you can be halfway through a bend and not have it go any farther. I've not yet found out how to fill it. The parts are also cast cheaply, and as we have others in the work area the pump has been dropped and the release **** broken, leaving sharp edges that blend in. I've cut myself a couple times on it trying to release the ram.

I didn't know what I was doing wrong though, and I thank the others for emphasizing the difference between pipe and tube! I'd seen my dad have no problems with his and had nothing but problems at work. I had thought the only difference between this type and a mandrel bender to be expense and control over the angle of bend, but it makes more sense to me now that there are actual differences between materials! Thanks!

92xjr

I've got the JD2 Model 3 bender and it makes very nice bends, you should check them out. You could probably set one up for around 500 or so. Watch what kind of die you get, some only bend up to 90 degrees.

Gravy

mandrel benders wrap the tube around the die so it doesn't kink like a push bender will

EVcherokee

That bender looks like a harbor freight one, but sideways. I got a 16 ton HF bender for $140 and it works great for occasional use. If any one tells you they don't work they're not using it right, but they willn't to my knowledge bend anything smaller than sch. 40. Don't get me wrong, they are tricky to use, but if you take your time and do some research, you'll be fine. I just didn't see the cost justified when I was going to drop $300 on a tube bender and another $400 or so for dies on something that I was going to use maybe for 15 projects in its life. Plus the material(DOM) was going to be 3 time more expensive and harder to get.

Structural pipe is just fine to use for roll cages and bumpers, just know what your buying. What people refer to as "poop pipe" is usually ASTM 53 grade A(%.25 carbon) or weaker and shouldn't be used. Grade B(%.30 carbon)is fine as long as you don't plan on crashing at 100 mph+. Look at what alloy elements your getting too, like nickel, manganese, and magnesium, which add toughness Structural pipe holds up buildings, so I figure its strong enough for a 3,000lb Jeep! There is a lot of HREW, CREW, and spiral welded pipe that comes close, meets and sometimes exceeds standard DOM strength at a fraction of the price and minimal weight difference. If you don't want a seam inside, there is also electron beam welded pipe, but it isn't perfectly round like DOM.

leecarr

Check out mtechsupply.com, bought one of their inexpensive hand models and converted it to hydro (easy if your a good scrounge and a bit creative). My son bends 2" DOM tubing on it all the time. I'll try to remember how to post pics, last forum i was on was for my shovel head Harley.

leecarr

Check out my photos, all the tubing on the CJ5 is 1.5" & 2" .120 wall DOM and was bent with their bender. $175.00 at the time I think, dies around $200.00 depending on size.