Welcome to the 8.8 club, buddy!! Lol, really though looks good man!

Very nice swap, I think your right on the money with your drive shaft angle.

I did my 8.8 swap a couple months back. Used the Rough Stuff kit as well and was also very happy with it. I did have a question about your shocks thought. I angled the tabs like you did and welded to the axle tube. That moved my shock up about 4 inches. Well, with 4.5" lift shocks, needless to say they basically had no up travel after the install. Now they are thoroughly blown out.

I'm sure if you have not had the problem yet any number of speed bumps or light wheeling will leave you in the same boat. Question is, what shock will you planning on moving to or what have others moved to? I was about to buy some stock height shocks the other day but was very hesitant to pull the trigger on 80 dollar Bilstein's and not have them fit right. Are there any other fixes, I was thinking about moving the top mount but not really anywhere to go higher...

A picture of my final product. (this was taken before I put another passenger side brake line on the drivers side like you did)

Attachment 317997

So a couple of weeks before I did my swap I helped a buddy install a lift on his cherokee. I kept his old rear shocks to test fit for when I put the 8.8 in and they seem to work out okay with my RE 3.5 lift. What you need to do it take you shocks off, find a place to flex it around town and measure. Then you can find the shock that will work best now that the shock tabs are so much higher.

I did the same swap a while back. One thing leads to another.

Your brake system is going to need some adjustment. Disc brakes require more psi then front disc and drum. City driving was ok, but highway speeds and shorter stops felt like you had a 30' trailer behind you.

Just be aware of this. I wasn't, I read a article in a 4wheel mag.

What if you replaced the brake booster with a WJ with the proportion valve that is set for rear discs? Maybe that'll help you.

Disc brakes
 

I believe there are two ways to go about getting your proportioning valve to work they way it should. I have seen on a thread that one way is to remove the o-ring on the side that regulates the rear brakes. I think it would be better to just switch out the proportioning valve to one that is already set-up for rear disk breaks like the previous poster mentioned. One thing I am planning on doing so that I could make sure the breaks operate the way I want them to on the trails is to install a secondary valve under my driver side seat so that I can adjust the rear breaks to just the right pressure. This might be unnecessary but since I already have the valve I figure it couldn't hurt.
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/su..._WPhoCb2zw_wcB


I have been studying every 8.8 conversion that anyone shares, so that when the time comes to do mine. I will be well prepared. $$$$ is keeping it on the back burner for probably another year. There are so many up-grades that that I want to do at the same time that I might as well wait until I have the cash to do them all at the same time.

Wjs are all abs, no prop valve for them
The booster and MC are a nice upgrade though .

Then maybe I mean the ZJ?

Swap looks awesome, man. Those are great welds for so little experience. I can't wait to do mine. It's geared 4.88s and sitting in my garage taunting me until I get my hands on a welder (maybe tomorrow).

Question about setting the pinion angle. Did you measure the DRIVESHAFT angle and the pinion angle? Or do you measure it somewhere other than the driveshaft?

Btw, I have an extra ZJ proportioning valve in my garage. PM me if you're interested. Actually I have a brand new ruff stuff diff cover that I might be interested in unloading too. I might end up going with a SOLID instead.

That'll do