big95xj

I would really appreciate it if some one could do a write up or something on how to fab long arms. Im no dummy but i dont know anything about the proper angles or anything like that. But if someone could post something that gives everything like like how long, what material to use, where the best place to get the ends are and what not. I want to do a Y link i guess its called but would it be possible to use my current adjustable uppers? Info like that would be great.

Thanks Bryant

Rob92XJ

Sounds like your wanting to do a radius arm, not that hard but getting the right angles is the hard part there is a link calculator on pirate4x4 as well as some extensive write up's. A word of advice is to search first before creating a new post and be ready to be flamed don't let it get to you.

Here is a link to the thread with the link calculator
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=204893

Me I'm going to do a 3 link front 2 lower arms and a single upper arm but the upper will be mounted to my frame rather then the lower control arm like a radius arm where the uppers are mounted to the lowers.

89eliminator

for materials i used 2" DOM 1/4" wall. got that from a local steel yard. i got my johnny joints, limiting straps, and inserts from polyperformance.com. for my mounts i just used a bunch of different angle iron, and plate.

EndlessMtnFab

Keep your eyes open on my build thread, might give you some info.


Mine is going to be a 3 link ( like Rob is doing ). Slightly more complicated, but I think the results are worth it in the end.


Search pirate ... but ask the questions here if you want to keep your skin. There are enough people here who understand suspensions enough to get you out of a jam.


And when/if you're ready ... give me a shout backchannel. I can help you with some great prices on joints/bushings/tubing inserts/etc.



Joe

Rob92XJ

When I start to build mine in the next few weeks I'm going to be plating my frame rails with some 3/16 3x3 angle using frame mounts from Ballistic fabrication there dual frame mount for the upper and lower on the drivers side and there standard HD frame mount on the passenger side. I'll probably end up getting everything from them they are not the cheapest but the quality is top notch.
http://www.ballisticfabrication.com/

For the arms I will be using 2.25 .375 wall DOM for the lowers and 1.75 .250 wall DOM for the upper link.
Flex style joints at the frame ends and bushings at the axle end but for the upper at the axle end I'll order the JJ that goes in the axle end from Currie
http://www.currieenterprises.com/ces...t.aspx?id=3151
Again not the cheapest but I think it will offer the best longevity of what is available in kit form.

EndlessMtnFab

Rob,


I'm not sure how you will fit an arm of that diameter onto a bushing end (unless you are using a stud like the joint end). 2 inch DOM is even technically too big -- but still very workable.



Sounds beefy for sure. I "only" went with 2 x .250 for my arms. But strength/stiffness is also a function of how long the arm is. My front lowers are about 31.5 inches long.



Joe

Rob92XJ

The only way to make it work is with a bushing on a threaded stud, all my arms are going to be fully adjustable without removing them. I had bent a aftermarket 2" .250 wall short arm which is my reasoning for the 2.25 .375 wall lowers. I was also toying with the idea of using a 3" joint and link mount at the axle end since mine are bent anyway. But think I'm just going to replace them with a HD link mount for the same size for clearance issues.

I wound like to get my front tires forward about 3" if I can figure out the steering and track bar relocations. There are not many feasable ways to move the steering box that far forward and I'm not willing to go full hydro since I do drive it on the street still.

SeriousOffroad

Gotta ask. Why do want to do that?

It's not just the steering. The coil mounts/bumpstops, shock mounts, frame side trackbar mount....

That's a huge can-o-worms there friend.



FWIW,
My LA's are 2"x.25" wall and I've come down them....HARD. Never bent one.

EndlessMtnFab

You bent a .250 wall short arm ?


Impressive !! Got pics of what you were doing?


I pushed mine forward about 1.25-1.5 inches. That seems to be the reasonable max without major mods.



Joe

EndlessMtnFab

Hey Frank ..... get out of here ... I was trying to answer him first.



Otherwise ... Frank is right.



Joe

Rob92XJ

Joe at Paragon Park many years ago I slammed a rock really hard and bent my lower arm, luckily I had my old OE arms under the rear seat, since then I have been straightening my axle and frame mounts, but now I'm at a point where I need to bite the bullet and 3 link the front.

As for why I want to push my front axle that far forward is to make my wheel base alot longer eventually I will be 4 linking the rear, comp cutting the rear quarters and going front and rear coilovers, just not yet. It is not practical at this time as there are alot of issues that need to be figured out but just will move it up about 1-1.5" so my front tires are centered in the wheelwells at ride height.

Besides I really don't want to spend anymore money on my current axles looking for a Ford Dana 60 and Dana 70 from a Dodge.

XJSETH

X2 i got the same arms and ive landed real hard and barely a scratch.

big95xj

Very good info guys. I havent looked at the link Rob posted yet but i guess where you mount your arms on the frame has to do with getting the correct angles? Also how long they are also? Joe i will definatley contact you about that stuff, but it may be a few weeks im gonna do quite a bit of research on this before i do it. How are the road manners with long arms?

Rob92XJ

I have been researching what I'm going to be doing for about two years now, I just want to do it once. I have went from going to do a 4 link(stock Jeep style), to a radius arm and after talking to a bunch of other people decided I will do a 3 link.
There are 2 types of radius arms used on Jeep the factory Ford ones most common when swapping a set of Ford axles under.
The other is what alot of people call the y-style(not T&T's Y-link) where you have 2 links joined together then connecting to a single location on the frame.
I have a few friends who have them and they are happy with there road manners. Many people on various forums will argue about upper control arm bolts breaking or bushings wearing out too fast, hell as it is right now my uppers bushings only last a season of wheeling.
One of my friends only have a drivers side upper link he copied the Claytons Hardarm kit, but used crossmembers and belly pans from another company he has a ZJ, by the way my other friend also has a ZJ and is alot more modified and he has both upper arms on his Claytons Kit, they both ride good and they both work well off road, my friend with the drivers side only upper flexs alittle more.

My desicion to go with a 3 link is because of space and future modifications I'm planning. I also like the fact that there will be 3 seperate mounts on the frame as well as the axle.

I was going to quote a few people from a thread on Pirate I started last year(this is how long I have been debating over what I'm doing) It would be alot easier to just post the link so here it is
http://pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=650794

Enjoy the reading there have been a few other threads on there as well just click my name and search for threads started by me.

After much back and forth and talking to others I feel 100% in my decision to go with a 3 link front. Right now I'm in the process of buying raw materials to build it with, buying what I can when I can so it is just a matter of gather the parts till I do it.

4.3L XJ

I will be pushing mine forward a good 1.5" also when I put my new axles in.