Had an Cheap Idea But
 

Hopefully you can see the pic
You can see from the quick paint job the general idea. I would cut the sway bar in the middle and install a thick tube over it, drill 4 holes thru were clevis (i think thats the name) can be installedwhen on the road, When you take them out it would allow the ends of the sway bar to move oppisite of each other, which ever way the axle is moving.
Here i think is the issue. When disco's and under full flex, it might mess up your bushing where the links attach to the solid sway bar. Does anyone think the same thing?
Also hopefully when pins are installed you wont be able to tell a diffrence in the sway bar on the road

ohh. i get what your trying to do.

im no engineer (although im studying to be one)
my first thought is, that's going to stiffen up the sway bar a bunch.
which isn't a bad thing, it might handle better.
but i think when trying to flex with the pins pulled, it will bind inside the tube.

your best bet would be to just remove the sway bar completely. it really doesn't make that much of a difference on the road. but does help a ton off road!

i drive my 3.5 lifted jeep w/o a swaybar. Its only a little sketchy when im pulling a trailer or when its really windy. otherwise you just gotta be careful.

I have the RE 3.5 with AAL and no rear sway and no problems

this is what i would do ! i just thought of this

cut a chink out of the sway bar then do as you were gona do but with a pipe that could slide to one side and then there would be no binding inside the tube!

https://www.cherokeeforum.com/member...8-sway-mod.jpg

I have removed my rear sb also. This is an idea for the front. I could see where it might bind up a little. Maybe throw some grease fitting in there somewhere to get it lubed on the inside.

I understand what you are trying to do. But I can see a couple of problems with it.

First, you are restricting the torsional area to the end. This will have the effect of stiffening the bar a lot. The shorter the torsion bar, the higher the rate. Same goes for coil springs. That is why chopping a coil spring stiffens them.

Second, you will be drilling through the bar, remember this is spring steel and as hard as a drill bit. Where you drill through will be a weak spot and with the added torsional forces will probably break it there.

Third, the pipe will not flex and the bar is bent, so it will assume different shapes and bind in the tube anyway.

I would like to give yo an alternate suggestion that I think is doable with a little ingenuity. Check this link:

http://www.teraflex.biz/products/jk-s-t-swaybar-4.html

This could be duplicated with a torsion bar out of anything that is the proper length and the end fittings and some welding.

not running any SB 's 4.5 lift drives just fine ..

5 lift and no sway bar and no problem at all

Are yall talking about the front sway bar? I have heard some bad stories about running a dd with no front sway bar

4.5" lift w/ 33's, no front or rear sway bars... not much of a difference when you drive carefully... I personally drive pretty slow and I don't take turns quick at all so I never noticed a difference between sway bar/ no sway bar... from reading tons of posts the biggest concern seems to be the "highway emergency evasive maneuver" issue... I'm thinking that if I have to make an evasive maneuver at 60-65 in a Jeep w/ a 4.5" lift and 33's the sway bar won't do much... with that much tire and the high center of gravity my Jeep will have a hard time staying upright either way... I do drive cautiously on the highway and I give myself plenty of room behind the vehicle in front of me so I can try to avoid those "evasive maneuvers"... just remember that it is your choice and this is just my preference, you still need to be comfortable behind the wheel of the vehicle you're driving...

Thanks for the reply,
I drive with my daugher a lot and her safety is my main concern so i want to keep my front sway bar connected for a while, Plus these northwest florida drivers are crazy
I also have a 4.5" of lift. Have you fully flexed out your jeep? My question is with that is did you extend your front brake lines? I am afraid if i disco mine and flex out i will rip one off, I have the brake line extensions and have also straightened out the brake line and used a self tapping screw to resecure that extension as low as it will go

Just a word of caution for those who have a DD without a rear sway bar. If you get in a accident it can be pointed to your removal of that swaybar.

So, what happens in an older model vehicle that didn't come with them?? Will they blame it on that as well?? Just curious, I know a ton of older vehicles had nothing back in the day!!

i saw your post and read what everyone has put and i think your idea is good the only thing is the bar would bind inside the tube inless if you could some how make hyme joints on both ends of the tube (check local hard ware store) i to have a 4.5 kit that measures 5 and fully flexed with 33's takes some doing and i have stock brake lines i removed to bolt that holds the break line to the uni-frame and i have had no problems after the past 2 years of wheeling when ever i can where ever i can so you should be fine there i think you have a great idea i run with my sway bar on the road but i vip tie mine on the passenger side after unbolting from the top of the sway bar end links i rub the tops of the end links while flexing but make sure u put the nut back on top of the bolt so it don't mess up the threads