Or just become a vendor :)

I'm down for some if the price is right

Looking to get $90 shipped. (Sounds expensive, i know, but go to page 2 and look at the parts list. It's only like $15 profit)

It's all 1/2". Those 1/2" collars are lock collars so you can lock them onto the bolt to keep the link vertical and stop it from sliding down and clicking around. The top has two collars in it with the heim in the center. No room for them to slide back and forth either up there. It's tight.

Heims are rated for 9,100 pounds. Brackets (that bolt to the swaybar) are 1/4" plate that are bent in a break and not welded. (They look better in my opinion.)

They come with everything you see, except i forgot to put the locknuts on when i took the pictures. There will be two locknuts on the threaded rod to lock the heim in place so it can't spin around.

Do i need to become a vendor to sell stuff? I'd like to avoid another cost if i can, but if i can't avoid that cost i understand.

No you don't need to be a vendor to sell in the other sections (part outs, suspension etc)

Thank you guys for all the support! My for sale thread is up!

https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f69/cu...onnects-167705

I just got my set on Monday and Hudson is a great guy to do business with. Great product well built. You can't beat these things for the price.

Got pics?

IMO, your lower mounting bolts are too long which is going to increase the "bend factor" on the lower mounts. The closer your bottom heim joint is to the lower mount, the less torque you will have on your mount and the less chance of bending/ breaking the mount or your lower bolts.

Those are nice looking disconnects, just need to tweak them a bit!!

Yea I was just about to ask about that, in the first two pictures quick disconnect bolts they are alot shorter. Did that pose a problem being that short?

I'd drop ninety nine ninety nine for a pair of these. I like their design and I don't think you should skimp at all on the bolt grades. My only concern from the pics, and the biggest complaint I have with my current QD links is that there's too much play where the link disconnects. It can produce quite a rattle on dirt road washboards. If there were some sort of bushing or washer sandwiched between the female end of the link, cotter pin, and lower mounting pin I think that'd eliminate the play.

One last thought- where do they go when you disconnect them? I might have missed it in reading through the thread, but provision of some male pins that hold the links out of the way when disconnected would be choice.

Nice fab sir.

Man! First off I just wanted to say awesome idea with puttin these together like you did! They look beefy and solid! I really like this thread because it's a small guy taking his idea and turning it into something he can make a dime off of; which is something I'd really like to do. I want to get into maybe owning my own fab shop as sort of a side gig to add on to my job, but that will have to be a few years from now when I get my own place with a shop.

Once again though, awesome product and awesome communication (being honest with us all about the quality of components and price)!! Keep it going!

Ill update this more when I get home but here are some better pictures of them installed.

Any ideas on how to make the lower bolt shorter? I made it that length to ensure that the rod is totally vertically and not cockeyed.

My first try I used shorter bolts (like someone pointed at) but that led to the disconnects being more horizontal than vertical.

I could bend the brackets differently and have like a side mount on the swaybar but I'm not sure if that would be better.

The 1/2 spacers all have Allen head set screws in them. You lock the bottom heim against the quick disconnect pin then push the 1/2" spacer up against it and lock it in place. No clicking or anything.

I shipped cotter pins with that first order and apologize about that. There are two quick disconnect pins enroute to your house now. Tell me if you have any questions.


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Oh and last night (although its totally unrelated) I managed to come up with a bolt on design for redesigning the np242 linkage. Works flawlessly through all gears and doesn't change the shift pattern.

Think there would be any interest in that?

Answered my question on the bottom bolt, and as for the 242 transfercase setup absolutely been following Lead Foot and PocketsEmpty since page 2 for the simplify linkage.

Do np231 and I would quite possibly be in!

Well, then you're in luck as i got one to work and it works wonders. I'll get a video of it shifting up later, but in the meantime here is what it looks like.

That already exists and Lead Foot on here makes them for like $50.

His doesn't work for the 242 though.


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Any thoughts on storing them out of the way when they're disconnected? I suppose nyties would work...

Move the outside top spacer to the other side so your top heim joint is flush to the inner face of the outside of the top mount. That should move the top of the disconnect 1/2" to the outside. Slide the bottom spacer all the way to the mounting nut on your lower mount, redrill your hole for the disconnect pin and cut off the mounting bolt. Might be a little bit cockeyed but will be a lot easier on the bottom bolt and mount.

That sounds interesting. I might have to try that out and see how it works.

I'll go move the parts around and get a picture just to be sure i know what you mean by that.

In the meantime i got my T-case Linkage in and got my 4lo working again. Crawled up onto something with the disconnects attached to see if i could snap them, but they held up strong. Obviously not intense wheeling, but the purpose of "Quick Disconnects" is to disconnect them when you go wheeling. Haha.

I honestly think they're good for the road and washboard dirt roads, but i'm more than happy to tweak the design if it makes others happy.


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Not trying to be knit picky but to me it looks like the passenger side disco is bending a bit like its bowed inward. Could just be the camera angle not sure.

Probably is. My swaybar slides back and forth in the bushings. Not sure if that's normal or not. Literally like two inches of play in the thing.

Dang sounds like you need new bushings or better yet upgrade to the zj sway bar its beefier

Soon enough. Soon enough. Haha.


Does anyone want my old rough country disconnects? They still work but they're pretty beat. Not sure how much "life" is left in them.

You get everything they came with.

$15 shipped anywhere in the USA.

On the bottom part of the link is that thing to keep it from sliding back & forth?Looks like it has a set screw.

You could use a small piece of tubing for a spacer.

That's correct. You put the heim joint though the bolt, slide it left a little bit, put the quick disconnect pin through the hole i drilled and then push the heim joint tight up against the disconnect pin. You then slide that spacer over tight and lock it in place with a 1/8" allen wrench.

This stops the heim from rattling back and forth and making that "popping/clicking" noise most disconnects make. Same goes for the top of that. The heim is wedged between two 1/2" spacers that are tight against the bracket. No popping/clicking up there either.

The only complaint i'm seeing (and attempting to correct) is making the bottom pin shorter to reduce the leverage/pressure on the mount while keeping the linkage vertical and not horizontal/cockeyed.

As you can see by the pictures i've flexed my suspension a little bit with them on and they hold up fine. The point is to disconnect them when you go wheeling. They will hold up to daily street/dirt roads fine.

A small piece of tubing as a spacer for where?

Looks good man! Like the setup, and your desire to build it right.

However, I have to agree with mastrbastr, I think the length of the lower pin puts too much leverage on the mount. I have ripped the lower mounts off of two D30's, more than once each (does help to remember to actually unhook the discos :brickwall:, but I often don't have time to do that when responding on a call). And that was with a 3/4" lower pin which was just long enough to reach through the lower link. Granted, the SB mounts on the 30's are pretty puny. I have built new, much beefier mounts for the new front axle I'm building which will hopefully survive.

I don't know if the idea he had about taking the spacer out of the upper heim to reduce the angle a shorter pin would create will work though, looks like the body of the heim might hit the bracket, unless you did some serious grinding and radiused the open end of the bracket.

You might be better to use a longer bolt on the upper mount, and actually move the heim out to the outside of the bracket. You wouldn't have the heim in a good double-shear loading like you do now, but if you ran a longer bolt through the heim, and both holes in the bracket would be pretty stiff, and still stiffer than the lower mount. That should fix the lower pin length, and solve the angle problem, or at least reduce it a lot.

One poss problem with that which I can see, is a small chance of tire rubbage, but you are close enough to the axle center line that it should be ok.

Just my thoughts. Good work though, I hope you can sell a bunch of 'em

At the first sentence.But nevermind.


I do agree about offsetting the top to match the bottom.It would lessen the stress.

Well I took your suggestions and made some measurements. If I put the heim on the outside of the bracket I will gain about 1 1/4" or so and put the heim right up against the bottom bolt. Would actually be perfect.

I also took a measurement with the heim still in the bracket just moved over one spot (wedged against the side of the bracket). Think I should put it on the outside or keep it inside?

Ill switch the ones on my jeep to this tomorrow and see how it looks and will post some pictures then.

Thanks for all the support by the way

Here are some pictures of the measurements.

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Well, looks like I was wrong about the body of the heim hitting the bracket, so that is even better. You may still want to consider clearancing the bottom of the bracket if it is close, hard to tell from the pic.

As for which way, I think either would work fine. The heim to the outside is probably slightly less desirable, as it is effectively in single shear that way, as opposed to inside without the spacer being double shear. But, I would say try them both, and see which aligns better.

But, if you do run it outside, you will need to put a sleeve of tubing or shims inside the bracket so it doesn't "squish" when you tighten up the heim on the outside.

What do you mean by, "clearancing the bottom of the bracket if it is close, hard to tell from the pic."?

I didn't even think about needing a sleeve in there to stop the crush. I think ill keep the heim in the bracket to keep it a double shear. I don't like the whole "heim outside the bracket idea".

I'd keep it inside the top mount. Too much strain on the mounting bolt if you move it to the outside. Will still look good slid to the inside of the mount and will give you that added 1/2"ish to the outside.

On a second note, knowing that the bottom arm mount is weak on the D30, maybe come up with a kit to improve the strength and sell it with your disconnects as a complete kit?:dunno: Just thinking outside the box a little!!

Yeah, if you can keep it inside, and still get a decent angle on it, that would be best. But, even if you didn't it would still be more solid than the bottom mount. The bottom is in single-shear, and the upper outside would be stiffened by the bolt going through both holes in the bracket. I guess the other option would be make the bracket wide enough to fit the heim inside, or offset the SB hole in the bracket.

What I meant by clearancing the bracket is, that it looks like the bottom edge of the bracket comes pretty close to contacting the lower threaded body of the heim joint. It may not be an issue, since these really won't have a significant range of motion, but if it looked like it would hit, then you might want to trim/grind off the bottom of the bracket a bit for clearance.

Good luck!

Going to work on them now.

Here is why i want to keep the heim inside the bracket. I think if i put the heim on the outside of the bracket (B) the force is going to be pushed more diagonally and not straight up into the swaybar like (A.).

I originally had it dead smack in the center so the force would go straight up. Just my thinking though and not even sure if it force even works like that. Hahah.

I think (A) is a better option and that is what i'm going to do now on my jeep.

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Well guys you were right.

Seems to have worked perfectly. Took an inch off each bolt and they're still standing up vertical. Not sure how much of a difference this will make, but i feel a lot better with that idea.

Pictures make it look like they're cockeyed, but it's just the the angle of the picture. I think these are good to go now, everyone agree?


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They look cleaner now with out all the extra bolt sticking out there

I agree with you. I think these are now up to par and have all the glitches/worries sorted out.

Anyone see anything else i should address?

Cant wait till I boost my lift and get a set of these from you man

What lift do you currently have? Just let me know when you want a set and i'll get them over to you pronto. Haha.

I'll knock $10 off for you and anyone else who had a direct impact on sorting through all the troubles and improvements on these.

Im sitting at 3" right now. Planning on shackles in the rear poly spacer up front here soon. If I get these from you with my current lift can I just get you to cut a new piece when I go up to 6"? Have you figured out a way to hold the discos and sway bar out of the way when they are disconected?

Sweet. Yeah, that definitely looks better. I think they should work out well. Time will tell how those D30 SB mounts hold up, but they are certainly a known weak point, no matter who's end links are on them.

Thanks for the discount offer, but actually, they wouldn't work with my modified mounts. Plus, I am looking at either swapping in a Rubicon auto-disconnect SB, or building one of my own. But, happy to help, hopefully it was helpful.

I have larger problems to deal with on my rig right now anyway, finally found the reason my handling has gotten so scary lately. Both of my body-side shackle mount holes are elongated to about 2" long, and the pass side is also cracked. Explains why about half the time, going around a corner, it feels like the suspension just collapses. Because it pretty much is. Time to tear it all out, fab some repair mounts, and do some more welding...