Am not a big boy welder yet, just cutting my teeth. I did go ahead and build my own roof rack and it is done (with the peverbal "for now" qualifier) and mounted.

It consists of 1" galvanized conduit (I know...I got the memo too late) round tube from the He-Man hardware store (Home Depot). I had a few things I wanted to do with this rack wich may differ a little from others. I also just wanted an excuse to make it more complicated than it needed to be. A failed attempt perhaps at making it look cool while following it functional requirement.

First it needed to be sturdy (duh) but unlike many others I just didn't trust the gutter mount route. I decided to utilize the existing roof rail factory bolts, with as straight up and down feet as possible. Originally I wanted more than four feet, but I settled (for now...haha). I also wanted some semblence of aerodynamics. Not so much for MPG savings (the weight would negate that), but for sound/wind noise reduction. I film from the Jeep and keeping as much ambient noise down is important.

Next, I needed a shape that would accommodate a number of the normal things (farm jack, shovel, cargo box storage) but also things like ham radio, cb, cellular antennas. Like most I also want lighting. However, I am not so much in need of tons of trail lights. Just a simple pair will do there. However I do want various lighting to th sides and rear for filming and storm chasing reasons. This means multiple, but lower powered lights and a few red lights. I also need a few spots to put some safety reflectors for road side safety. I don't like the idea of light bars like the cops and firefighters use because they cause more distraction and it messes up my video.

Lastly I needed the roof rack to also work as a filming platform. Mostly just a sturdy spot I can stand on, set up the tripod and film. Granted the ground is always better as there is less camera shack due to the slight vibrations of the Jeep in the wind or with the motor running. But, there are times a lifted Jeep comes in real handy for those certain shots.

OK, so enough with the text, here are pictures. I'll describe some of the details in the pictures as I post them. I probably will have to spell check, add and revise much of this later.

Attachment 146636
Just a quick side shot


Attachment 146638
The front plate shows the up and over angle for air flow.


Attachment 146645
The front sides are angled to help airflow, if later I need to add more sheet metal plates.

Also in this picture you can see that I use a continuous steel metal strip so that four of the five (per side) existing mounting bolts were utilized. This is to distribute the "shearing" motion of the load when the rack is fully loaded. There is no way in hell I would trust only two (one at each corner) connections. It is why I probably will go back and add more feet (legs) and weld to this metal strip.


Attachment 146639
But the rear sides are also angled. The lower bars are to be a platform for the antennas, and the upper bars are bent to stay clear.


Attachment 146640
Another front view. Highlights my super sucky welding.


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Rear view, not originally planned to be pinched at the back...was a result of part of the back getting bent while stored in the side yard, I did my best to keep it straight. I actually like the pinch though in the end, but don't like the miss alignment (made worse by the misalignment of the front portion.


Attachment 146644
This angle however was on purpose, to be as close to the tailgate in the upward position, bit leave a little clearance too.

its different,but it looks good

hit those welds with a flap disc and all will look well.

You talking about those sanding/grinding wheel disks, and doing it before welding to avoid the galvanization? I did use a simple grinder to clear some of the galv. area asI found thewelding went easier also. But that is a nice
Ittle tip. I also forget to buy one.

i really like some of those angles, its cool. i am planning on angling my some like that aswell. but i'll learn from what you have stated and try to keep it even straighter to i dont have the pinch haha;p

but dude, very nice rack(haha) and nice welds!

yeah, those sanding flap discs for your grinder.

this is the simple process i'm talking about.

http://www.mig-welding.co.uk/finishing-welds.htm

In the third pic there is a gusset on the driver side but not the passenger side? Or am I missing something... looks good though! I like the concept, designed with specific intent and functionality. Id love to see it loaded with tools and gear though :P cost and weight? Is that powdercoat or rattlecan?

Everything is symetrical except that one short angle piece on the inside of the basket toward the front (the 3rd pic, at left) and two tube pieces for the later mounting of the farm jack.

Just rattle can for now. It is the rust refinisher type. I don't thing I'd bother with powder coat, but might consider bedliner. Still not sure there, more reading and cost checking.

I forgot to keep track of cost, but figure around $100-$150 for the conduit, sheet metal, other metal, rattle cans. Of course, time was crazy high being my first. Figure 30 hours actual work time. That does include setting up and breaking down ea. day though...since I didn't have a garage. Weight, probably 35 to 50lbs. Seemed more, but I think that was just my weak self lifting it up and down off the roof a number of times.