Other Vehicles. Other Jeep models & cars and trucks of other makes Talk any vehicle tech in here other than Cherokees.

Where to get this ignition coil?

Old 03-22-2017, 05:45 PM
  #1  
Seasoned Member
Thread Starter
 
bradleyheathhays's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Lexington, KY
Posts: 310
Received 3 Likes on 2 Posts
Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Default Where to get this ignition coil?

Usually I'm working on the old '96 XJ but right now I'm trying to source an ignition coil for a 2002 volvo s80, and I'm not sure if I should trust the ones available at O'Reilly's. This engine has 6 of these things that sit right on top of the spark plugs. Have I heard the ones from NAPA would be more reliable? Or if not where should I get this part?

Last edited by bradleyheathhays; 03-22-2017 at 06:03 PM.
Old 03-22-2017, 09:41 PM
  #2  
Senior Member
 
XJRed96's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2012
Location: Midwest
Posts: 638
Likes: 0
Received 14 Likes on 14 Posts
Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0L
Default

Napa coils are generally alright. The advanced BWD are so-so.

Amazon Amazon

I believe that is the one you need. verify on your own
Delphi, or bosche are the two we sell at the shop for those volvos. Dont seem to have a problem with either.

Is that a T6 volvo or just the 2.9? The coils are the same for both but if you have the twin turbo it may be worth while replacing all 6 and spark plugs if they haven't been done in the last 100K. Use platinum plugs, Bosche is OE, But we use NGK with good success.... we started as a volvo shop, then spread to the other Euros. then spread to everything and anything.
Old 03-23-2017, 02:07 AM
  #3  
Seasoned Member
Thread Starter
 
bradleyheathhays's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Lexington, KY
Posts: 310
Received 3 Likes on 2 Posts
Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Default

Big thanks red.

Unfortunately it's the T6. Just got into trying to get this badly missing engine running right and lo and behold my reader showed 15 different codes. One saying a general cylinder misfire was going on, plus a code showing each of the cylinders 1-4 mis-firing. Took all the ignition coils down to Oreilly's and they all tested good but one, so that's the one I'm replacing, but leaving in the other 5 for now. I'm also replacing all the boots and plugs w/ the Bosch Platinum OE like you suggest.

Glad I found ya man

Last edited by bradleyheathhays; 03-24-2017 at 04:12 AM.
Old 03-24-2017, 04:11 AM
  #4  
Seasoned Member
Thread Starter
 
bradleyheathhays's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Lexington, KY
Posts: 310
Received 3 Likes on 2 Posts
Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Default

Good news is I replaced all the plugs with bosh platinum and the ignition coil with a bosh and she's running pretty good now. Only thing was one of the plugs had a fair amount of oil in it's threads and another had building white deposits on the top electrode. I forget if either of these was the same cylinder where the coil went bad, but I could get back to the garage and find out.

Here's the codes it was throwing before the tune up..

p 0050 - HO2S Heater Control Circuit (Bank 2 Sensor 1)
p 0101 - Mass or Volume Air Flow "A" Circuit Range / Performance Problem
p 0128 - Coolant Thermostat Coolant Temp Below Thermostat Regulating Temperature
p 0132 - O2 Sensor Circuit High Voltage (Bank 1 Sensor 1)
p 0141 - O2 Sensor Heater Circuit Malfunction (Bank 1 Sensor 2)
p 0236 - Turbo Charger Boost Sensor A Circuit Range Performance
p 0237 - Turbocharger Boost Sensor A Circuit Low

p 0300 - Random / Multiple Cylinder Misfire Detected
p 0301 - Cylinder 1 Misfire Detected
p 0302 - Cylinder 2 Misfire Detected
p 0303 - Cylinder 3 Misfire Detected
p 0304 - Cylinder 4 Misfire Detected

p 0457 - Evaporative Emission Control System Leak Detected
p 2178 - System Too Rich Off Idle (Bank 1)

p 1651 - Manufacturer Specific Code ...
- system = powertrain
- subsystem = computer and auxillary output circuits
- DTC description = data bus powertrain missing messages
- location = powertrain data bus
- analysis = missing message from control / sensor modules

Like was saying, engine seems to be running smooth now. But do any of these codes mean something serious I need to get on ASAP? I'm thinking I should erase everything and see what pops up again.

Last edited by bradleyheathhays; 03-24-2017 at 05:01 PM.
Old 03-24-2017, 10:26 PM
  #5  
Senior Member
 
XJRed96's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2012
Location: Midwest
Posts: 638
Likes: 0
Received 14 Likes on 14 Posts
Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0L
Default

oh wow,. your all over the place. i can help but i'm going to need some time to compute. wouldn't be surprised if all those codes were legit knowing how bad these volvos were.
Old 03-25-2017, 05:12 AM
  #6  
Seasoned Member
Thread Starter
 
bradleyheathhays's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Lexington, KY
Posts: 310
Received 3 Likes on 2 Posts
Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Default

Yeah your right man there's a crap ton of codes there. With my own vehicles I only get one or two at a time b/c I get on it right then. But just met up with this volvo and seems like its a mess. Anything you need me to check on just let me know and I'll get to it.
Old 03-25-2017, 06:44 AM
  #7  
Senior Member
 
XJRed96's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2012
Location: Midwest
Posts: 638
Likes: 0
Received 14 Likes on 14 Posts
Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0L
Default

definetly wait and pursue the faults as they come back, but those are all faults i'm used to seeing on that car, this generation of volvo was a big shock to owners becuase they really went overboard on the luxury and most of the people buying these cars were used to the old-school reliability of the 240s,740s,940s even the 850s.

the turbo boost circuit. mass air flow circuit, and potentionally even the rich fault all generally come on when the throttle is starting to fail. with that being said definetly check and make sure all the vacuum lines are secured there are no leaks after the MAFS.

The oxygen sensors on this car are nearly impossible to do without dropping the exhaust, and i've had to replace all the sensors on multiple cars. they do fail regularly. if you do decide to pursue these faults and replace them, when it comes time just do all 4, problem is they aren't cheap and as mentioned they suck because there really is no good way to get in there with a tool on the car. it can be done but bring you big swear book.

The coolant temp fault is pretty straight forward, make sure the coolant level is full. if it is and the fault returns replace the Thermostat and the ECT sensor. the ECT sensor is on the thermostat housing and replacing is pretty easy, two T40 bolts. but of course volvo placed one of the bolts under the engine cover but you can usually get it by flexing the cover over and not having to remove it.

wait and deal with the misfires if they return on a one on one basis, but if its running smooth now chances are that shouldn't return unless there is another fault.

The evap leak... another poorly placed component. theres generally a "j" shaped hose that sits above the rear subframe that attaches to the canister filter and goes to the shut valve. this hose develops cracks over time and leaks. there are some vapor lines that run under car on the Pass side that i've seen dislodged as well as the occasional purge valve fail, purge valve should be mounted on the cooling fan housing.

Good luck but in my professional opinion on this car, you should try and get out of that car as soon as possible. these cars are notorious money pits. we haven't even started talking about the suspension yet.

Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 

Thread Tools
Search this Thread

All times are GMT -5. The time now is 11:59 AM.