Scott M

Get to work there my friend

Scott M

UPDATE...UPDATE...UPDATE...

Things that were done this weekend 2/07/15 - 2/08/15
SAT
-Checked all fluids....easy enough
-Ran hose & Connected PCV and other vacuum lines...easy enough
-Cleaned KNN air filter via a pool of simple green and water
-Charged KNN air filter
-Ran wire for electric choke confirmed power
-Ran all wires for tach
-Checked tightness of header bolts
-Connected my bolt up exhaust kit (not my perfered exhaust set up will be next thing on the list to fix, going to go ahead and weld up the whole kit but got it on to fire it up with just the bolt on
-Checked ground and power wires from battery ended up running new wires for this including a new ground wire from engine to frame ended up using welding leads
-tied back all wires around the motor

SUN
-Pulled dist reprimed oil pump with the priming tool (worked much better than the cut screw driver lol
-Put the dist back in and tried best to get it in right position (pretty sure we got it right)
-Reran all the spark plug wires and checked position on cap
-The center little metal thing with the spring broke on the brand new cap(fml) had to go get another cap stalled starting it up lol
-Proceeded to bolt up the torque converter only to find the bolts I thought I could use off of a th350 torque converter were wrong thread pitch so went and bought new bolts(I lost the originals in the year its taken to get this thing going)
-Got torque converter bolted up

Started cranking over 5-10 second intervals every 30 seconds to minute to try and avoid burning up the starter. I have a fuel pressure gauge so after about 5 sessions of cranking I pulled hose back towards fuel pump to verify that gas was being pumped and gas did come out, so then I checked to make sure It was connected to fuel pump in (because my original fuel pump was a 3 hose (one for return line) I checked it was hooked up right so after about 5 more sessions we started getting fuel to carb and about 2 more sessions it FIRED UP!

We ran it for only a min however because we decided to shut it down cause we did not believe the oil pressure gauge is working properly. To be on the safe side I am going to buy aftermarket gauge just for a piece of mind. I believe I have oil pressure cause priming the pump pulled valve cover and was getting plenty of oil to the top end but just going to make sure.

Overall pretty successful weekend I would say Im pumped about getting this thing back on the road in the next month however there is still alot to be done in order to get it inspected and back on the road bunch of little things.

Things left to do besides finishing breaking in the motor
-All wiring to front lights and tail lights needs to be connected need new plastic for the marker lens in front new bulbs everywhere around except for the headlights
-Fix tailgate issue
-Emergency cable is cut need to fix that (I want to do rear disk conversion but might just redo cables for now) to get it going
-Weld up exhaust
-dont have to but need to put on bumpers (want to make bumpers)
-Need to try and align front fenders better
-Fix front fan shroud and radiator set up

Not awhole lot left light is at the end of the tunnel lol

forgot to mention I wouldnt have been possible without my two buddys on sat helping out and then sunday a whole possy of friends and cousins to help get it going a few showed up just cause they wanted to see and hear it run cause theyve been on me for months about getting it ready lol

zebvance

:headb ang:

Scott M

Alright Back to working on my truck this coming up weekend, took a break last weekend and will be back in town and working on this sat morning. Ive been thinking about the game plan for this weekend and my thoughts are as follows...need to finish breaking in motor and need to start gearing up for passing state inspection..

Buy 3 gauge cluster from oriellys or autozone and hook that up (will be able to start it up again and complete break in once I 100% know i have good oil pressure and the stock gauge isnt working right. Will go ahead and hook up a battery gauge and temp guage while im in there and running wires and buying the cluster.)

Will start wiring reconnecting wiring harness to all lights, signals and horns ect..

need to figure out why wipers dont work

install new front parking lamp lens I bought off ebay last week (hard to find the factory lens) lmc had an option and kind of wish I would have went that route but oh well

take a look at what brackets ima need to make to install bumpers(2"body isnt gonna look good at factory location and body lift didnt come with relocation brackets) should be easy just cut plate steel

Need to figure out why on intial start up truck was running at 3000 rpm maybe linkage issue carb adjustment pedal sticking not sure, ive had pedal stick before just need to lube it all up

Need to fine tune motor after break in (help from cousin who know about that stuff)

recheck tranny fluid level after its warmed up

disconnect rear drive shaft and take it to local shop to see if there is anything that can be done to fix it

look at rear brakes and attemp to reconnect parking brakes I cut the wire might see about welding a splice in just to get it inspected lol

ummm thats all i can think of off the top of my head this weekend lots of little stuff i suppose

cant wait to crank it back up and do some tuning on it and try and get it running real good!

aero3685

Good work, its looking great

Scott M

Update! 2-24-15

Wanted to just post what I got accomplished during this past weekend. It was a very busy weekend to say the least. and not so much working on the truck

I got all the wires for the front lights working, had bad grounds and needed new bulbs but managed to get the front all working

Tail lights needed all new light bulbs, had a bad ground as well, ended up getting that all taken care of and working had the tail light socket and the reverse light socket switched (guy who had the bed before must have done this

I got the horns mounted and confirmed it worked...this was tough suprisingly, I spent at least 30 min trying to figure out where they went lol could not remember

I installed the 3 gauge cluster I bought and ran the line for oil pressure, i did not install the the other 2 gauges at the moment. I did confirm that the stock oil pressure gauge is not working. I did not remove the oil pressure sensor I used the port above the oil filter to measure oil pressure.

I started the motor again quickly built up oil pressure to 70 or so and a few minutes later dropped to about 50 or so. From what I have been told I must have a vacuum leak or something cause even with linkage for throttle disconnected I have to push down on the throttle bracket pretty darn hard to get it to idle around the 800 rpm zone. Im going to do some tests to see if I do have a leak.

I installed a new throttle cable (mine was well beyond gone pretty much)

found out I have a small nail in front right tire so Ima have to pull it off and take it to the tire shop to get a plug.

I guess thats pretty much it but I do have a game plan for this weekend which is as follows:

1.) Hook up other 2 gauges
2.) Disconnect clamp exhaust and get reducers welded to the pipe (clamp kit is not very good)
3.) Disconnect both drive shafts and take rear drive shaft into the shop get an estimate on it
4.)Drop the tranny cross member going to do some modifications to it, little grinding to help allow more tolerance for the front drive shaft hits every once in awhile.
5)reconnect strut bars from engine to tranny
6.) reinstall the torque converter cover
7.) cut brackets to mount bumpers
8.) look at wiper motor

ahh just remembered I need to see about finding rear emergency cable brackets and order them. Anybody know if you can install the cable to the back drum without actually pulling the drum? Just unbolt the cover?

Scott M

So I have a question for anybody that might have expierence with lifted chevy/gmc trucks (my style)

If I have decided to keep my drum brakes on my 14FF axle and I cut my emergency brake cable between the drum and the bracket, what do people do to reconnect the emergency cable or buy to replace the one they cut, auto parts store brought up the part i needed to get a stock length cable said it was special order i said fine they went to order and said they cant even special order....said to look online. now my question is i dont think the stock e-cable length for this section is even long enough

I am clueless!!!! Please help! one of the final pieces to the puzzle for getting it to pass inspection!

Scott M

Well this weekend I decided it was time to find a way to bring the truck to the rv park im living at so i can work on it not only on the weekends but also afterwork during the week, wouldnt fit on my dads trailer so I bought a tow bar put it on in a couple hours on sunday and towed it the 72 mile trip to where I currently stay

monday after work decided I would mess around with it and did, ended up figuring out a couple things and made its maiden voyage!! haha i did a lap around the rv park just idling around, first time it has moved on its own power in over a year!!!

I have things I am going to do after work for the remainder of this week and hopefully work towards getting the tags updated soon. must figure out emergency cable first lol and other odds and ends that just need to be done

zebvance

Did you put those mickeys up against the groundhawgs to see how they looked?

Scott M

Nope but I might just get them installed this weekend or sooner maybe after work, Im just curious if the hawgs really do have that bad of flat spot, you were there when i blew up the motor and i know they werent that rough before driving on them, plus i figured that the 72 mile tow in 80 degree weather would have rounded them back out, only thing i havnt done that ive seen mentioned is to lower tire pressure to about 20 psi and drive on them about 5 to 10 miles see if that works, if it doesnt then they are coming off i guess to at least help pass inspection so i dont get hell when they do the brake test.

anybody else have knowledge on this situation?

zebvance

does it feel like the the "flat spot is consistent to the tire rotating, I or is it more rapid, like a drive shaft vibration...

Scott M

I dont know if it is just my mind but it feels like the right front and yea its like a tire, i know how the driveshaft felt and the DS only vibrated before at 45+ mph this is like 10-15 mph starts bouncing and i suspect it is that right front because it had a leak and was low for months before i saw it and got air in it

I am going to solve the problem by putting the other tires on it and see if that makes a difference, If it does i guess ill just sale the hawgs for what i can and advertise they had a flat spot on them and see if anybody wants them for a little bit of nothing i guess

zebvance

sounds like you just answered your own question...

Scott M

hopefully hate to get rid of them but not much you can do about it if that is the case...

XJNVA

Hopefully they're fine. Hawgs are a rare commodity these days. Even with the flat spot, someone would be more than willing to buy them. Hell, IIRC, my dad just sold 3 38" hawgs that were dry-rotted but held air for $500