vtxGump

Looking to add a 6.5 inch lift to my '04 GC. It has the Quadra Drive. Was gonna take it to a friends house about 50 miles away to do the lift. Does anyone know if I can get by with the stock rear shaft (its a conventional double cardan) to drive it home until I can get the measurements to order a new shaft?

I tried doing a search here but Tapatalk isn't giving me any results. Kinda new here so please forgive any forum etiquette missteps.

North_Coast_ZJ

What did the guys that sold you the lift say? ...is there back roads or do you have to 55mph + ??

So are you doing a long arm? Short arm? Short arm with a control arm drop brackets? Are you dropping the transfer case ? (that might help) . Let us know how it goes

vtxGump

Haven't bought the lift yet, just preparing and determining if this is something I can do myself. Everything I am seeing online says there is already enough travel in the slip yoke of the NV247 transfer case to not be a problem. It looks as though my front driveshaft is a double cardan with u-joints on both ends (total of three), which is where people run into problem, but on the rear, it's just a fixed length drive shaft with a single u-joint on both ends.

Yes, the lift I'm looking at is a long arm (Rusty's Offroad 6.5"). There is no tcase drop, but it does have a new cross member with the mounts for the front long arms.

aleet25

Drop t-case isn't needed. It actually makes your angles worse. I just got done putting a 6.5" LA kit on mine and the rear driveshaft only moved out of the transfer case about 11/4". I'd be willing to bet its the same driveshaft considering I've got the 247 also.

North_Coast_ZJ

So i'm a little confused. Is the front drive shaft the one you're worried about or the rear? I guess if you have the Quadra Drive you can't pull the front drive-shaft to get it home with out damaging the transfer case. I know the CV style front drive shaft can be problem, but I thought you were good to go with the Double Cardan. I really don't know much about a long arm kits or when you get up near 6.5" ...(post pics when you do it).

vtxGump

Thanks, I think this is the answer I was looking for. 1.25" seems to be reasonable to be safe. Do you happen to know how much more it slips during full articulation of the rear?

My rear drive shaft doesn't have a double cardan, just one u-joint at each end. Is yours the same? I thought this would be problematic adding lots of vibration at the transfer case since the pinion angle would be set to line up with the length of the shaft. Would be interested to know if you've noticed and vibration.

Not worried about the front yet. I do have double cardan (3 u-joints) up front. The rear was my main concern. Wanted to make sure the rear shaft and slip yoke didn't fall entirely off the rear output shaft with that much lift.

aleet25

This should help in everything that is required and suggested at that height. I haven't had a chance to really flex it out to see what happens to the rear. I don't get to wheel as much anymore with 2 kids so I'm not too worried about it.

vtxGump

It says SYE but I don't believe there is an SYE available for the nv247 tcase. This is good though. I know I can drive it home and take measurements for a new ds if necessary.

North_Coast_ZJ

... it helped on mine with the rear drive-line angle, but now that I think about it you might be right on the front . Another downside is my whole transfer case hangs lower & the engine is pointing uphill now.

vtxGump

Yeah, the long arm kit I'm looking at has a new cross member that the LCA bolts to. Wouldn't want to drop the cross member with all that stress on it.

Tom Woods make a double cardan rear drive shaft that is meant to work well with the nv247. Guess I'll see if there is much vibration with the stock shaft before I pull the trigger on a double cardan rear shaft.