dave1123

*

dave1123

I'm telling you that remote starter has a receiver that's active all the time, drawing power. It may not be much, but it could conceivably reduce your parked battery life by 1/2! Mine has 2 10amp fuses under the dash that I pulled out because I'll never use it. When my windshield was replaced, I told them to remove the antenna that was over the mirror. I looked at the unit planning on removing it, but there are about 20 or so wires running everywhere, so I said F-it and left it alone. It was in my way when I replaced the flasher.

I'm thinking you could install a heavy duty battery disconnect switch on the battery cable similar to the ones used on heavy equipment. By disconnecting the battery completely, you'll lose the radio presets and the PCM's learned driving data.

xjthing

I had the battery and alternator checked at advance, everything is good. I just have to figure out where the drain is coming from. Maybe I'll get to that this weekend.

tony270

Then start disconnecting/unplugging components one at a time until you find the failure, it might inside a component or downstream. You can test for the draw at the battery using a volt meter or if the draw is high enough a test light. You can sesrch on "how to test for a parasitic draw at battery".

xjthing

Just when I thought I was out of the clear...I put a brand new battery in 9 months ago and refreshed the grounds under the hood last month...and it's back. So far I'm only having gauge issues now. The vehicle starts and runs fine every time. While I'm driving the gauges sometimes come back on independently and the doors lock. The only lights on are the check engine and the check gauges light, the security key light went out. I read somewhere that it could be a sign of a failing alternator...any ideas??

Cherryokee

Hey xjthing, You are not alone in this. Read my story here...

https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f5/dtc...-p1698-238464/

It's a PITA but can be resolved. Use the FSM. Be patient and methodical. Good luck.

dave1123

You can try removing the gauge cluster and cleaning the harness connector. The cluster comes out very easily, just a spring clip mounted trim plate on the bottom and 4 phillips screws. Also try cleaning the connector on the BCM.

Lots of info on this model at wjjeeps.com

A very good video for a parasitic amp draw test can be found on YouTube at "Bleepin' Jeeps". He goes beyond just checking fuses. A lot of weird things can happen with an aftermarket remote start unit. That's why I disabled mine.

xjthing

Just when I thought I was starting to get it under control...for the last few months it been running good with the occasional gauges shutting off and then coming back on. With the gauges off it doesn't register any miles. I just got it back from the shop (got the rotors cut). So I decided to start troubleshooting the intermittent gauge issue. I messed up, I disconnected a connector while the battery was connected. Now it's in security mode and shuts off after 3 seconds. I tried the key in the door method (turn back and forth 3 times)and the c/t and reset button tricks that youtube said would work...they dont. I unhooked the battery, I connect it in the morning and hope for the best. I'm about ready to turn into the hulk and start smashing.

I need to figure out how to get it out of security mode.

I checked the wires in both the front door jams- nothing broken
gauge cluster connection- no corrosion
I don't see any grounds for the gauges close by.

wires behind the aftermarket radio- no breaks or shorts.
The only thing I didn't get to is taking the PCM mounting bracket off and cleaning it. I cleaned all of the grounds under the hood already.

I used a snap-on scanner to read these codes when the gauges were off.

I read some voltages while it was running. The one I didn't understand was the one that said panel voltage 3.92V

I'm going to spend the rest of the evening reading wiring diagrams.

On another side note I'm thinking the battery terminals may need replaced. Any suggestions?

xjthing

After 5 hours of working on it again I think the PCM crapped out again. I removed it from its mount and found heavy corrosion near the seal on the left side. There is a rubber grommet in the cowl above it that may be leaking water directly on it. I re-cleaned and checked just about every connection from the PCM and BCM and in between. The fuse for the PCM had the most corrosion. I charged up the battery and its still in security mode. It recognizes that the key has a rfid chip in it, but acts like its not programmed. I'm going to look into a key programmer and possibly a refurbished PCM. Last time it forgot the key the dealership replaced the PCM, because it wouldn't hold the key's chip code in memory.
If anyone has bought a key programmer or had any luck with refurbished PCM (hopefully they can shut off the skim module) please let me know.