ablackbear1983

What rear ends can be interchanged, I have a 95 Grand Cherokee w/ a 373 rear. What other rear ends can be used? Any from another kind of vehicle?

jnicewan

Direct swaps are going to be from other ZJ's, you either have a D35 or D44a and they both swap out with each other. Most popular upgrade/swap people do is to get a Ford 8.8 from an Explorer, the best years are 95-01's to get disc brakes and the gurantee of the better axles. The explorer axle is a good choice because they are stronger than the ZJ axles, cheap and easy to get parts for and wheel bolt pattern is the same. They also used the same gear ratios so if you look you can find a match to yours. They do require some fabbing as far as welding brackets up and converting brake lines but there are bracket kits with instructions to make it easy too.

Bustedback

You can swap anything in if you have the skills or a fat wallet, sometimes it requires both.

ablackbear1983

Thank you!!

ok93zj

i was in the same position as you so i went to a pull a part and got a rear end out of a v8 grand cherokee and got a d44a with disc brakes took me and a buddy like 2 hrs to get it out on the wet ground and took me less than a day to clean it up and put it in and put on a budget boost in a garage. just make sure ring and pinion and spider gears are good in the donor.

ablackbear1983

ok now what about the front end? same thing?

Bustedback

You can get a brand new D44 that will bolt right in, but the cost is close to 3000 bucks when it's all said and done.

5-90

NB: The D35 and D44A both have different pinion lengths. While the axle assemblies would be a direct swap one for the other mechanically, you'll need to change the rear driveshaft as well (not difficult, just one little detail a number of people miss.)

The D35 prop shaft is too short for the D44A and won't drive, the D44A shaft is too long for the D35 and will bottom out in the transfer case before the vehicle can come to "ground rest."

But, as mentioned, nearly anything can be swapped in if you have the time, effort, and money. The rear end of the ZJ, WJ, and WK all run about 60-61" from wheel flange to wheel flange. Although most full-size truck axles are going to be wider, it's only a few inches (typical 1/2-ton and 3/4-ton truck axles run 62-66" WMS-WMS,) and can be covered up through extended stone flaps and/or different offset wheels - although changing axles often results in changing lug patterns, and you do want all four wheels to match (else you'll have to carry multiple spare tyres, and have to keep track of which goes where.)

Or, if the final drive ratio is your primary concern, just have the axle re-geared. No need to worry about the swap, and you get to change your gear ratio.

ablackbear1983

ok now what about the front end? same thing?

5-90

If you're going to get an upgrade from the OEM D30, fab work is going to have to happen (unless, say, you get incredibly lucky and find something like a Venezuelan XJ with D44 fore and aft. Don't hold yer breath.)

However, unless you're going to get a rear that has the same lug pattern as the one you're replacing, you'll want to get a set of axles from under a truck and swap wheels to keep on a single lug pattern (or carry two different spare wheels and mark them "front" and "rear." Pain in the ****.)

Getting a set of full-width axles from under a half-ton or three-quarter-ton truck is common. Getting them from a one-ton truck is uncommon, but doable - they're going to be wider with larger centre sections (less relative ground clearance.)

It's also common to grab axles from, say, under an early U100 bronco - should net you a Ford 9" for the rear, a D44 up front (correct drop,) and be within an inch or two of the proper width.

Getting the axles from under an SJ or maybe a J10 usually gets you a D44/D44 combination, about two inches wider than stock, with the correct drop.

(I keep mentioning "correct drop" - the front axle differential needs to be offset to the driver's side. You can't just get the drop on the wrong side and flip it over - the bearings will be starved for oil and turn themselves in steel shavings in fairly short order. Getting a front axle re-tubed to change the drop is difficult.)

I think the later Dodge axles under the Ram trucks have a left front drop, and that can get you combinations like D60/D44, D44/D44, C9.25"/D44, AAM10.5"/D44, D70/D60, and other heavy-duty sets.

However, if the axle didn't come from under an XJ or MJ (or even a ZJ or WJ,) you're going to be grinding and welding bracketry at a minimum (and even the ZJ/WJ axles often need brackets relocated. XJ and MJ fronts are effectively identical - the rears are close, but you'll have to relocate leaf spring pads at a minimum.)

Problem you run into is that the D30 was used under Jeeps from about the CJ-5 forward, even under most later SJs (although the J-series often had the D44 - or maybe larger - under them.) So, pretty much any front axle replacement is going to entail fab work.

EDIT - forgot it was for a ZJ, but most of the information given will still apply.