po0dingles

Hi Guys,

I finally got my 3.5 inch lift installed. I'll be tracking down some driveline vibes later (got noise coming from what sounds like the front cv-style driveshaft and the rear diff). But for now I've got some rubbing when I turn the wheel too tight.

I checked under the Jeep and it looks like the tire is rubbing against the control arms? I can't really tell and I'm sorta new to all of this.

I'm using the stock rims on my 98 5.2L GC. They look like this:



I've got Falken Wildpeak AT's on there now. What size/spacing rim should I be looking for so that my rubbing is minimized as much as possible?

I don't mind trimming plastic. I mind rubbing the rubber on metal parts.

po0dingles

Here's a few pics:

PocketsEmpty

Looks like you need some longer arms in the rear...but anyways, in the front, those rims are the reason your tires are rubbing. They do not have near enough backspacing. Ideally you'd have 4"-3.75" backspaced rims. As an alternative, you could go with wheel spacers..

dave1123

If you lack of turning radius isn't too much, you can try adjusting the steering stops.

po0dingles

It does look a little funny, but I was told when the suspension in the rear compresses, the tire moves backwards. I had a rear trackbar installed but it's my understanding that only helps side to side alignment. Would adjustable control arms help?

Thanks, Dave. I was aware of that but I was hoping to maintain the factory turning radius (or at least bring it back as much as possible).

So I should be looking for rims with 4" back spacing, correct?

jeepheep1

When it compresses the rear might sit slightly better, but what is basically happening now is the rear axle is being "pulled" up and in towards the center of the jeep. Your front CV I'm imagining is a rezeppa style at the t-case? If so, I recommend doing a conversion on that soon to a double cardan, rezeppa style CV's don't hold up well to that angle.

po0dingles

So would the rear arm issue be resolved by buying adjustable control arms?

Yeah I have the np249 tcase and but not sure which front shaft I have. Attached are pictures of the front one (the front of it and the rear of the same shaft).

I have some wah-wah rubbing noise coming from directly under my seat. It was like that before the lift. Minor chirping at times too (like the sound of dry metallic friction) can hear it when I'm at a stoplight. Sometimes it went away when shifted into neutral.

The rear diff was making some rubbing noises too.

I'm already anticipating on doing a vicious coupler replacement, address the leaking rear main seal, and have the transmission and pumpkin inspected and refreshed.

I've read about the tcase swap, I really don't like messing around with **** like that because I can't do the work myself and I don't trust anyone to do it for me. I admit that I don't really know what's involved, don't care how much money it might save, if it doesn't drive like it did off the show room floor and I have to make some kind of sacrifice (be it noise, vibration, knocking, or increased wear and tear) I'm not going to do it.

I'm still reading about it and in the back of my head considering swapping the tcase but I don't want to hunt around a junkyard for the interior pieces.

jeepheep1

The adjustable control arms in the rear will give you the ability to push the axle back under the vehicle as it should be and get it centered. Hopefully eliminating any rubbing or binding.
As for the t-case I wouldn't worry about swapping it out either. You have a (what looked like) double cardan at the t-case, GOOD. And the POS rezeppa CV at the differential. Not as big of a concern, as it being at the t-case, but your jeep is going to eat it alive now that it's lifted. I would do a conversion on that front end, or buy a Tom Woods Driveshaft.

dave1123

IDK if it's just the photo lighting effect or what, but I don't like that red stain on your front CV joint. It looks like rust coming out of the joint, meaning it's dry and wearing metal-on-metal.

Get it out of your head that ANY lift will drive like it did from the showroom. The vehicle was designed for a specific range of motion in the suspension and anything beyond 2" of lift is pushing the boundaries. At 3.5" of lift, you're putting added strain on the driveshafts because of increased angles and slip-joint movement as well as being out or range of caster settings. Lack of proper caster is one of the problems leading to "death wobble". Adjustable control arms will help reset the caster.

I'm not trying to scare you, just make you informed.

po0dingles

ok thank you both. I'll look into adjustable rear uppers and lowers. I'm tight on the budget -- wife and I are saving for a house.

I'll look into that Tom Woods driveshaft as well. Man I'll never be done with this thing lol.

dave1123

There's ALWAYS something to fix on a Jeep! Just about the time you think you've got it nailed, something else pops up. They sure are fun though, aren't they? I used to dread driving in the snow but since I've owned a jeep, I look forward to it. I'm confident I can go anywhere whenever I need to regardless of the weather. I've even left my phone number with the volunteer fire dept. for emergency transport if they ever need me. I can't fit a gurney in the back, but I can take ambulatory patients and being retired, I'm available just about any time.

czettlera

You should also consider that spacers or backspaced wheels, will create an additional torque on the wheel bearings, and maybe shorten their lifetime.

po0dingles

Perhaps I should attend to those and have all four replaced beforehand? I don't believe there's anything wrong with them currently, but it's a 98 with 145k miles on her. I'm sure they're the originals.

dave1123

I've said the same before and most people just blow me off. You also have the added problem with depth of engagement of the studs and having the nuts loosen up. If you go to thick spacers, you'll have to get longer studs or spacers with their own studs. I just think the whole idea is dangerous.

The original backspacing places the tire's load directly over the bearings, If you move the load out away from center, you're adding torque to the axle stub resulting in increased bearing wear. JMHO.

po0dingles

Well I have to do something about the tires rubbing. I guess I see your point regarding having tires that stick out like crazy, but something modest shouldn't be much harm, should it?