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replaced metal break line now i have no rear breaks??

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Old 08-21-2013, 01:40 AM
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Default replaced metal break line now i have no rear breaks??

i replaced rear metal brake line it was rusted and blown. i have bled the system and have not brakes at all.so i replace the power booster and master cylinder and bled the lines again to no avail still have no brakes what am i doing wrong
Old 08-21-2013, 01:51 AM
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Originally Posted by sammyjeep
i replaced rear metal brake line it was rusted and blown. i have bled the system and have not brakes at all.so i replace the power booster and master cylinder and bled the lines again to no avail still have no brakes what am i doing wrong
I know you said you already bleed the system but did you bleed in the proper order? RR first, RL than FR and FL last.

I've heard of people having to prime the Master cylinder. I've never had to do that but its something to look up if you did the bleeding properly.
Old 08-21-2013, 08:46 AM
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Leave your wrench alone and have a shop fix it for you before you start throwing more unneeded parts at it.
Old 08-21-2013, 10:03 AM
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When you bleed, how much do you bleed and how do you bleed? Bleed 2-3DL (0,2-0,3 quarts?) from RR, then 2-3DL from LR, then 1-2DL from RF, then 1-2DL from LF. You maybe have to do this 2-3 times to get all the air out. But how do you bleed? You can have a problem if you replaced the master cylinder and didnt prime it, then there is air in the ABS pump and thats hard to get out.
Old 08-21-2013, 12:34 PM
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Originally Posted by Bustedback
Leave your wrench alone and have a shop fix it for you before you start throwing more unneeded parts at it.
Just follow this advice and call it a day.

When you bleed you need to do it until only clear fluid comes out. Can take 2-5 attempts per side.

Op may not have and since he didn't mention it.

Op, did you have brakes before the line change. If yes your issue was air in the lines
Old 08-21-2013, 12:46 PM
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Originally Posted by sycoglitch
Just follow this advice and call it a day.

When you bleed you need to do it until only clear fluid comes out. Can take 2-5 attempts per side.
I replaced my lines last week. It took 1 liter with new fluid to get all the air out, but i didnt have empty Master Cylinder. With speedbleeders it was a easy job. The hardest part of the job was to remove the steering column to get access to the line that goes to the rear.
Old 08-21-2013, 06:01 PM
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I think you've gone too far throwing parts at it. I lost the rear brake line on my 97 ZJ. After replacing the line, I had no fluid coming to the rear axle, even after pumping the brakes. There is an isolator shuttle valve that has to be manually reset before the rear brakes will work again. It's near the master cylinder with a wire plug on it. You have to remove the rubber cover from the end of it and press the plunger with a small probe to reset the valve. This action turns off the brake light on the dash and allows fluid to fill the rear lines.

After doing this, all I had to do was wait until fluid started running out of the rear line where it screws into the hose at the rear axle, and then tightening it up.

If you've already replaced the master cylinder, You probably need professional help. As stated, air in the ABS unit is a PIA to get out.

Last edited by dave1123; 08-21-2013 at 06:03 PM.
Old 08-21-2013, 06:04 PM
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Originally Posted by pwb
I replaced my lines last week. It took 1 liter with new fluid to get all the air out, but i didnt have empty Master Cylinder. With speedbleeders it was a easy job. The hardest part of the job was to remove the steering column to get access to the line that goes to the rear.
Remove steering coloumn ...
Old 08-21-2013, 11:37 PM
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Originally Posted by freegdr
Remove steering coloumn ...
In the engine. Cant get a new line in (to the rear) without taking it out.
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