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Relay going nuts.....need help!

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Old 03-31-2010, 04:26 PM
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Default Relay going nuts.....need help!

I have a relay going nuts in the pass. side interior fuse panel. It is killing my Battery in no time, less than 5 min. I have swapped it out for another relay and the same clicking noise continues. I have supplied a pic showing where the relay goes. Does anyone know what the relay goes to so I can track down the problem or at least try to?

Old 03-31-2010, 04:38 PM
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I found this diagram, but where would I start to figure out what's causing the coutesy lamp relay to go nuts clicking?


Last edited by dude in an xj; 03-31-2010 at 04:40 PM.
Old 03-31-2010, 08:43 PM
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mine was going nut too but thats cause i hade bad connections on my battery and i was loosing power and when i open the door it went crazy..so i guess you could try to clean your battery and check the door switches
Old 03-31-2010, 09:26 PM
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Originally Posted by rickybarth
mine was going nut too but thats cause i hade bad connections on my battery and i was loosing power and when i open the door it went crazy..so i guess you could try to clean your battery and check the door switches
The battery is new, terminals are clean and all cables are tight. I jumped it and it started right up. I pulled the relay and fuse and the battery tested at 12v after sitting for approx. two hours, the same voltage after I immediately shut it off. It tested at 4.2v before I jumped it with the relay and fuse still in. As long as it starts, I'm good for now. I would like to have my interior lights back though.

I'll take a look at the door switches. Thanks.
Old 04-01-2010, 08:59 AM
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check all the door pins for shorts and check all lamps and grounds for all the above even the fuse panel like ricky said.. that way you can work your way to the problem???
Old 04-01-2010, 10:37 AM
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any luck?
Old 04-01-2010, 10:41 AM
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Let us know what you find, I have a similar problem.
Old 04-01-2010, 12:06 PM
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All I know as of know, is that with the relay and fuse pulled, the battery isn't dying off like before. However, I shut it off about 6:30 last night and the battery tested at 12v. It should be 12.7v from my understanding. I checked it again this morning at about 9:45 and it tested at 11.7v, but it started right up. I let it run for 30-35 min. and shut it off. It then tested at 12.4v, but 10 min. later it was at 12v and it's still at 12v right now, only 25% charge. I'm going to have it tested at AutoZone later today.
Old 04-01-2010, 01:24 PM
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For 8 hours I had my back door open while working on my jeep and did not run down my battery. Those lights are not taking that much juice.
Battery my be your problem.
Old 04-01-2010, 02:23 PM
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id just clean the terminals and the clamps then spray the terminals with the protect and spray so they don't get corroded..a load test is good too.mine looked clean but i guess it wasn't a good contact between the battery and the clamps. also check the ground right to the left of the battery.. i know it sounds dumb but i just had the same problem so it only takes 5 minutes and could save you some money
Old 04-01-2010, 02:49 PM
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The battery tested good. I did double check all battery cables and they are tight and not corroded or frayed. All the door switches are working properly too. I put the relay and fuse back in. No clicking. I'm at a loss at what happened. I'm going to keep an eye on it and see what happens.
Old 04-01-2010, 08:48 PM
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That relay is for the interior lamp timer delay, clicking indicates that it either did not enough voltage to remain energized or that it had a poor ground. More than likely the root cause was battery and connections. Take a look at the underhood central junction block and make sure that the battery lead from the alternator is clean and tight.
Old 07-12-2019, 06:27 PM
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Hi Guys - just got a 96 Grand Cherokee with the interior lights staying on. Previous owner eliminated a lot of the problem by removing the bulbs I think .Anyway I've found a few things that may help others: I removed the back door hatch lock and found that there is a micro switch which senses whether the lock is locked. MINE WAS BROKEN OFF THE MOUNT. It had been held in place by a pair of plastic "rivets" which were too weak to handle loads.. I put it back with ABS cement and a homemade steel clamp. My thoughts were/are that this would tell the system hatch is open??and leave the lights on. I still have the problem however. Possibly the relay was harmed.. still checking for that.

I also found a red rotary switch on the shaft of the key cylinder which I think senses if locked.? It was intact until I broke it trying to remove it. I tested what was left and it did indeed function as a rotary "switch" in that it renders continuity when turned. I found they are discontinued but about 6 left in the world at $66 according to the dealer. I did the best I could with glue and an added support to hold it in place. on to Bigger problems.
Old 07-12-2019, 08:59 PM
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oh man ..burned by a 9 year old post..again...

Last edited by 97grand4.0; 07-12-2019 at 10:50 PM.
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Old 08-27-2019, 09:30 AM
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Originally Posted by 97grand4.0
oh man ..burned by a 9 year old post..again...

lol. it always happens to me. We're you having similar issues to this guy and if so how did you fix it?


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