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Radiator questions

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Old 07-02-2016, 11:38 AM
  #16  
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Originally Posted by Robotkiller
I run a 98 xj 4.0 and I am in the process of rebuilding it slowly. Right now I am working on the engine cooling system. I will be installing a flowkooler water pump, new heater core and all other hoses and parts. I use my jeep as a daily driver and haul a tool trailer and plan to pull a off road camper for a cross country hot springs trip. My question is 3 row vs 2 row radiator any thoughts would be welcome thanks
Welcome to the Forums.

1st rule... Always read through the thread.

Most of the time, any questions you may have, have already been answered.

In this case, yes they were.
Unless you will be using your Jeep for mostly heavy towing, the modifications it takes for the 3 row, makes it useless overkill.
Old 07-02-2016, 12:40 PM
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What constitutes heavy towing? I pull 1500 to 3000 pounds in the tool trailer 2 to 5 times a week and plan to pull a 4500 pound off road camper around the country from desert to mountains. If there are any threads I would be better of reading can you point me to them.
Old 07-31-2016, 11:07 AM
  #18  
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i picked up a e-fan off a 94 torus 3.0 yesterday for 30 bucks from the Junk Yard. i discovered that the radiator tilts inward at the top and this makes the installation a bit tight for the fan. like posted above, i had to trim around the e-fan shroud to suck it in closer to the radiator. one question, where did you pull power from in order to prevent the fan from running while the jeep is off?
Old 07-31-2016, 11:22 AM
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I used a fan controller that I got from Amazon. It has excellent instructions and has worked flawlessly for two years now. I recommend using a 40 amp circuit breaker to power the fan, not a fuse. My fuse holder melted after a year and failed, that caused my radiator to blow the plastic tank apart when things got too hot.
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Old 08-01-2016, 09:16 PM
  #20  
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Originally Posted by Bustedback
I used a fan controller that I got from Amazon. It has excellent instructions and has worked flawlessly for two years now. I recommend using a 40 amp circuit breaker to power the fan, not a fuse. My fuse holder melted after a year and failed, that caused my radiator to blow the plastic tank apart when things got too hot.
I like your fan mount. i was looking at the photos you had in a previous post trying to figure out what you did and i can see it now. i think we have the same fan, did you leave the bottom open (no shroud) and how did you secure the bottom part of the fan? on your temp switch - did you have to run a separate silonoid or is it self contained?
Old 08-02-2016, 01:29 AM
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Originally Posted by jon-d
I like your fan mount. i was looking at the photos you had in a previous post trying to figure out what you did and i can see it now. i think we have the same fan, did you leave the bottom open (no shroud) and how did you secure the bottom part of the fan? on your temp switch - did you have to run a separate silonoid or is it self contained?
There's about a three inch strip at the bottom of the radiator that isn't covered by the fan shroud, hasn't caused any issues. I used those plastic aux trans cooler mounting things that go through the fins of the radiator to secure the bottom of the fan assembly, not ideal, but it seems to be working ok. The fan control has a temp probe that gets shoved in between a couple of the radiator tubes. The control is all self contained, you need battery hot, switched hot, and ground. It also has an input for A/C to turn the fan on when the A/C clutch engages, and a manual off input if you want to turn the fan off for water crossing. It's really simple to install and is adjustable for the temp switch on. I have mine set at 150 degrees.
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