trailshredder

A week ago my daughter put her window down and it wouldn't go back up. When I tried it I heard the relay clicking when I moved the switch so I assumed it was the motor on the regulator. I ordered a new regulator with motor and put it in. It worked for a few days but now it is down and wont go back up again. any thoughts?

trailshredder

Checked it out when I got home last night and when I hit the switch, I can still hear the relay clicking. I would assume this means the switch is good? Maybe I got a bad regulator/motor?

GitRDunn

I couldn't tell by the description which window and/or if the master window switch was being used or the isolated window switch attached to the actual door. I have seen cases where the passenger window will not go up and it was actually the master windows switch on the driver's side that had to be replaced. I would suggest digging the manual out and your tester and check voltages to try and determine where the short is. Or in other words which switch, connection or part is failing. the manual should provide what the voltage range should be.

trailshredder

Sorry about that. This is the drivers side front. I'll be tearing into it this weekend.

andrewjohnson24

look at the door hinge you will see a black ribbed rubber sheathing, peel it back and look for broken or corroded wires because they stuffed a ton of wires in there the amount of stress on those wires is a lot and opening the door and closing it will cause them to break, so take a look be fore you dig into it but if you want the window up take a 12v battery and take the panel off the door locate the two wire plug in behind the speaker and hook the battery up to it to bring it up or down.

muskrat

Drivers side door wires,had panel off 10 times
The wires looked OK

I bought a used master switch
Should have looked in the rubber boot, what a mess.

andrewjohnson24

tell me out it in that rubber boot is one hell of a mess I had 5 broken wires in mine a about 9 that were cracked and shorting out on each other. Fun Fun Fun let us know if you fixed it.

basegrinder

Is the window exposed at all? I've had a window go off track in the winter because of snow/ice. Just pulled up on it and it went back into place, no issues with it over the last year. Hopefully thats all it is

trailshredder

Pretty sure it is fixed, been working for a couple weeks now anyway. When Iwas beginning to pull the panel away from the door, I heard the motor kick in,so I suspected a short or loose connection. After pulling a ton of tape off thewire harnesses, checking behind the rubber boot, couldn't find any bad wires.Plugged the wire harness back into the switch cluster and found with the plugpartially inserted, it worked great, with the plug all the way in it would onlywork with the panel pulled away from the door. Ended up Soldering "Fatteningup" every pin in the switch cluster, put it back together and seems tostill be working (Knock on wood). One of the pins was rather blackened like ithad been partially making contact. I cleaned it up to shiny silver beforehitting with the solder iron.

dave1123

IDK what the jeep switches look like inside, but I had a problem with a Dodge Caravan. The switches were down inside the body and were actuated by small aluminum pins. These pins got wet and corroded and swelled up enough to stick so when you ran the window down, the switch wouldn't release and allow you to activate the "up" part of the switch. I replaced the pins with 12 ga. copper wire and ended the corrosion problem. I imagined that if left long enough, they would burn out the motor, unless there is a limit switch on it. I don't think there is.