Hatsuwr

Yup, had the same reasoning. I think the clamp I used was 15 mm tall and seemed to fit alright.

Read this a while back, which notes that multiple barbs actually can sometimes reduce sealing/holding ability since they don't always allow the hose to relax all the way down on both sides of the ridge, and there often isn't space for the clamp to be properly placed behind the barb.

Ralph77

I could see that. I used some of those barb inline hose connectors, barbs on both sides, but just for extending my TC and tranny diff breathers. So no worries there. LOL

Noah911

That's the bent pipe I was talking about.. Mine's fine after looking closer at it to keep in-use.

The Jeep dealer where I am located at now doesn't even stock the oem mopar thermostats anymore for the older Cherokees. They said they now only use the Stant Super stats for our application. The Stant looks well made, and it is more heavy duty better built looking. According to the research.. they also perform better than equivalent to oem.

Muddz

I have an XJ and a ZJ and wondering about their aftermarket radiators. Most appear to use plastic tanks with aluminum core. A few such as CSF as described as all metal which must mean use metal tanks with alum. core?

What's with these plastic radiators are they any good for off-road and more extreme use such as towing? Or is better to find an all metal?

Are the plastic radiator susceptible to cracking?

I think I would more likely go with a CSF all metal or a non plastic Mopar? or an all aluminum? I've seen a few all aluminum between $150 and $200.

Noah911

My radiator is the stock Heavy Duty Tow-Prep package version and it has plastic sides. So, towing obviously in mind. It is 15 years old now. They do crack at the plastic. 3 years ago a pinhole crack on the passenger side upper plastic portion was sanded down and repaired with jb plastiweld. Its held for the past 3 years. The radiator still performs excellent though.. Its a 15 plus year radiator in my case.

When replacing. The aftermarket less expensive plastic side radiators run around $100, and I think would easily perform excellent for at least 10 plus years. Unless wanting the best stuff, then by all means spend $500 to apparently $750 for an all metal top of the line. $300 for an all metal Mopar. Or even around $200 for an all metal aftermarket version with a good reputation and build quality are available. That may be worth it for $200, but it's still more than twice the price of the $100 versions that can be found.

I know for me, if I get 13 or so years from a $125 good quality plastic sided radiator that performs excellent the whole time, then thats what I should do. For me, if at 13 years from now that radiator needs replaced again, I am fine then to put another new one in. At that time probably all hoses, belt, h20 pump, etc could use it again probably too.

If for $175 to $200 there are good quality proven metal sideed 2 to 3 core radiators to choose from, then thats probably a good 'cool' thing to do!

Muddz

I guess they've improved the plastic radiators and apparently at least some areas aren't very difficult to repair.

They certainly have taken over the market. Perhaps do ok for towing I am not aware they're preferred for off-road and extreme environments over all metal?

The market and manufacturing has changed so much where I think most are manufactured overseas.

I can remember years ago in my youth most radiators were copper brass where if your radiator was in need of repair due to leaks, clogging up, etc. you just took down to the local radiator shop and they would fix you up in around ~30 mins and ~$30.00. It's was so easy some could be repaired in 15 mins. They removed the core and either flushed it out with special machine bath equipment or they just simply soldered in a new or refurbished core. If you have the right equipment the metal copper brass cores are quickly removed and installed.

More than 10 years ago I installed CSF copper/brass heavy duty 3 row radiator ($200.00 delivered) in my XJ 4.0L and it's worked without any leaks or problems. I also installed Wix coolant filter on one of the heater hoses. Takes an $8.00 spin on filter that filters down to around 25 microns. Cleans up most of the dirt, debri and metal particles in the coolant keeping the cooling system in better shape and allows to get the maximum life out of the coolant. I'm running the Zerex G0-5.

The ZJ I've only had a short time and haven't looked closely at the radiator, but I think it may have Mopar OEM aluminum core with metal sides. I don't remember seeing any plastic when I was replacing a starter.

If I needed to replace either radiator I would probably get an all aluminum or a Mopar OEM preferably with metal and not plastic tanks.

I'm also going install a Wix coolant filter on ZJ. People say you really don't need a coolant filter on a passenger vehicle but I think in the long run a coolant filter helps preserve a radiator and cooling system, plus helps to extend the life of the coolant.

Noah911

What do you think?

Does this one look from what you see in the pictures as being able to serve the part of being a high-end all metal radiator to use for extreme applications, and excellent cooling protection? Longevity-wise looking?

Its a personally fabricated version designed for use in wj..xj.. for instead of buying one of the other available branded radiators for sale.

It is beautiful! A well designed looking radiator to me.

Hatsuwr

Looks nice than stock for sure! Don't know a whole lot about welding, but it seems like they did at least a solidly constructed job.

I'm not sure how much increased performance you will see if it's the same flow pattern and tube/fin material though. Do you know what this is and what stock is?

One nice thing about more popular stuff is the input of hundreds of people's experience with it. But if whoever built that has a good reputation and you are willing to pay the price for it, I'd say go for it.

Noah911

Right, if it performs equal to the stock version I've been used to in my wj throughout the past three years, then it would be an excellent performer... Really, as I do not see how to see improved performance because the one in there now as a stock unit couldn't performe any better! You know...

Those welds are fantastic looking too aren't they! I would think that excellent welding here would be an absolute most important aspect for a radiator.

Muddz

I MIG weld some on lighter metals and have stick welding on heavier. And can tell you even with perfect looking welds all it takes is a very small pin hole (or microcrack) to create a leak. Most of the time welding is ok on all aluminum radiators but once in a while individual radiators develop leaks.

Champion Radiators was have problems but eventually upgraded it's quality control.

In order to achieve good welds requires all of the welds be xrayed or a test similar to an xray. Welds can develop microcracks that aren't visible with the naked eye. Or a weak spot inside the weld, then over time, even it the weld appears to be good, it can develop leaks. Then to repair you may need to go over and test and inspect all of the welds, which would add to the repair costs.

I've looked at several all aluminum in the $200.00 range. Some are manufactured in China.

There's Champion:

Cherokee: 72-'79 Jeep Cherokee, 1984-1990 Jeep Cherokee - 1991-2001 Jeep Cherokee
https://www.championradiators.com/Je...okee/radiators

Grand Cherokee: 99-04 https://www.championradiators.com/Je...ator-1999-2004

But nothing for a Grand Cherokee ZJ 93 - 98

RockAuto has an all aluminum radiator for a Grand Cherokee 1993 - 1997 (listed under "Premium Quality")
LILAND GLOBAL 1396AA All Aluminum w/o Engine Oil Cooler - $124.79
https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/...,radiator,2172

KKS MOTORSPORTS is another manufacture I think with similar quality to a Champion.

Grand Cherokee 93-97
4.0L http://www.kksmotorsports.com/show.asp?id=694
5.2L http://www.kksmotorsports.com/show.asp?id=695

Plus other Jeeps http://www.kksmotorsports.com/products.asp
(radiator selector by model and year, if you don't enter a year it lists a radiator for the selected model)

I've come across others, I can remember a person that made aluminum radiators from a small shop and would sell them to individuals. some of which he would custom design. Quoted me under $200.00 for a Cherokee XJ radiator.

One difference with all aluminum radiator is that if they need repair usually require a good aluminum welder, which may charge higher rates to weld aluminum.
So some types of repairs potentially can become more costly than repairing a copper brass and plastic radiators.

Depends on what sort of a repair a radiator requires.

I think I would go with an all aluminum for around $200.00 vs an OEM Mopar plastic and a probably a two row vs a one row.

However if I could find a good price on a used or new OEM Mopar with metal sides (in good condition) I would go OEM as their built to last and considered to be better made than at least some of the all alums.

Noah911

I think the all aluminum Champion 2 or even 3 row at $200 looks to be the best option for the price. I guess the quality is good too?

Muddz

I've read good review lately about Champion, however a few years ago there were people complaining and returning while still under warranty due to leaks.

I seem to remember Champion then upgraded their quality control and no more or fewer complaints about leaking radiators.

e.g. Here's a post from 2014 about a leaking Champion
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...e-leaking.html

Video -
Complaints about Champion from several years ago

Reviews from Amazon

_____________________________

Even the more expensive all aluminum radiators ~$500 - $750 have been known to develop leaks. However often the more expensive rads such as from Griffin are often used used in more extreme conditions such as racing, off-road environments, etc. They also can be made wider such as e.g. 2, 2.5, 3 inches for additional cooling. I remember a Griffin for the Cherokee XJ that was 2 to 2.5 inches wide, might have required some modifications to the front end that secures the XJ's radiator.

I think some people don't prefer all alums as they can become more expensive to repair compared to a copper brass and plastic radiators.

Noah911

It looks like to me the welds on the fabricated one that I posted prior were the better welds. They were along more of the radiator edges and surface with what looks like better designed structural integrity to the weld and whole piece.

I don't really know though I think the Champion appears to be made good.

Noah911

There was a good quality amount of talk on this post. I wanted to update what I did.

In the end.. Not much. I just did the h2o pump.

After looking closer at the rest of it. I thought it all looks better than good enough. I see three more years probably before I should have anything to possibly worry about at least. It does feel good to have it fixed a major coolant leak being from my jeeps thermostat & h2o pump though. I ended up with a thoroughly increased knowledge of my jeeps entire cooling system. Also, a close look and inspection of it all too. That all feels good!

I hope you found it interesting to know what I decided to do for my wj in this case... Thanks for all of the help, knowledge, and guidance. I appreciate the contributions from you all! I'll keep you updated when and during my trip coast to coast when I start the drive. Thanks

Muddz

I discovered on my 95 ZJ someone replaced the mopar oem radiator with another oem mopar radiator with same OEM part number, two row aluminum, well built however the tanks appear to be made from thick sturdy plastic. thicker than metal tanks.

If I were looking for another radiator I might look at a Mopar OEM with plastic tanks