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new mc still no pedal

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Old 10-15-2012, 05:31 AM
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Default new mc still no pedal

thanks in advance for all the info given here--changed the mc on my 94 gcl--bench bled before install-bled the lines entering the prop. valve--bled each wheel in correct order--still cant get any pedal or good braking--after bleeding the wheels -when i checked the fluid level it felt like a vacuum release at the cap--can i still have a lot of air in the system?-i dont get any air at the wheels--also it seems the front wheels release much less fluid than the rears-any ideas thank you
Old 10-15-2012, 06:23 AM
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Need more info here. Does the 94 have rear drums or discs? Does it have ABS? There is a shuttle valve that shuts off part of the system in case of brake failure in either the front or rear system. This valve may be not allowing you to bleed the front brakes. Try leaving all 4 bleeders open and pumping the brakes a couple of times. Then close them and bleed the fronts first.
Old 10-15-2012, 06:50 AM
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What do you mean by "No Pedal"?

Is it not moving?
Does it go straight to the floor?
Old 10-15-2012, 04:25 PM
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more info--rear drums and abs--pedal travels all the way to the floor-jeep will stop if i hold them all the way down but will feel like it will stall--thanks for the follow up
Old 10-15-2012, 04:31 PM
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Rears adjusted properly?
Old 10-15-2012, 05:46 PM
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i will double check the rears when i can --i did change them a few months ago
Old 10-15-2012, 05:50 PM
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when you say "stall", are you talking about the engine? if so, have you
checked the brake booster?
Old 10-15-2012, 07:22 PM
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yes the engine wants to stall--searching past posts about brake problems- i came across a test for the booster which was to remove the vacuum line from the booster and plug it--with the jeep running i still had no pedal so i went with the mc--but it hasn't helped ---thanks for all the replies- i want to try to fix this problem without going to the mechanic--also when i removed the mc i saw fluid between it and the booster and saw some fluid inside the booster itself--so i thought the seals were bad
Old 10-16-2012, 05:12 AM
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did u bench bleed the master?
Old 10-16-2012, 05:20 AM
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Fluid in master meant rear seal on master was leaking needed to be changed . To test booster you pump pedal until pedal gets hard usually 3 to 4 pumps will do then start pedal shoul drop a little . Confirm this yet ?
Old 10-16-2012, 05:24 AM
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Read.....http://www.piratejack.net/index.php/...er-diagnostics
Old 10-16-2012, 05:26 AM
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and this.....http://www.dummies.com/how-to/conten...-problems.html
Old 10-16-2012, 06:57 PM
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latest update --removed rear drums to inspect brakes --found rears did need adjusting--wondering if self adjusters are doing their job--adjusted brakes and tested--pedal did improve slightly --but abs light still on and doesn't feel like brakes are correct--did bleed the mc before install--checked the links from post above--every info i have seen for the booster says the pedal will be harder to push if its bad --mine is very easy to push down--any more questions-- please ask--i appreciate the help
Old 10-16-2012, 08:45 PM
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Originally Posted by freegdr
Fluid in Brake Booster means rear seal on master was leaking needed to be changed .
Fixed it.
Old 11-20-2012, 08:35 PM
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Default back up and running

i started on this problem so long ago i had to do a search on myself just to find the thread--well between only being able to work on the jeep on weekends --hurricanes and lack of jeep repair funds i finally have an update--new mc --new booster--abs light still on but not an issue with brake performance--found out BRAKE light is for brake problems --anyway its stopping as good as it ever did --with no stalling --just wanted to say thanks for the help along the way
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