codykrr

ok so I do not own a zj, I have an 01 xj which is the only reason I am asking. because I am not familiar.

What tools should I take with me and what should I expect when removing an entire rear end from a 97 grand?

Found a complete rear end, for 50 bucks, and will be using the rear disc for my xj. but I gotta drive 35 miles, and wont have electricity. never been under a zj, so not sure what to expect or if its going to be a mother to get out.

dave1123

First of all, your XJ uses rear leaf springs and the ZJ uses coils. You'll have to change the spring seats to your leaf brackets and remove the brackets for the control arms. This is not a bolt in swap. Also, you have to make sure the gear ratio is the same as yours. IMHO, you'd be farther ahead by rebuilding your XJ axle or finding another XJ axle.

If you're still going to do this, the hardest part is getting the control arm bolts out because they are often rust-welded to their bushings. The control arms and track bar, shocks and sway bar are about all that's holding the axle in. A "fire wrench" works very well, but if it's in a yard they won't let you use one. BTW, the '97 ZJ uses rear disc brakes as well.

The '97 ZJ uses (as a general rule) a 3.55 axle ratio on standard models and a 3.73 ratio on tow package models. If you're not sure, the tow package models have an aux trans cooler in front of the radiator, a trailer hitch, and a lighting module with trailer wiring. The diff covers have tags on them, but may not be there. Check for a tag on the front axle as a clue. You probably already know this from your XJ. The ZJ is also a D35c (with c-clips). I'm not sure what your XJ is.

By the way, are they still using the AW4 in the '01 XJ and not the 42re? Never mind, I just checked and they were used until '01

codykrr

yup...planned on keeping my stock d35 rear end in the xj. I just want the disc brake system off this zj rear end. nothing more. but for 50 bucks I can get the entire rear end so figured might as well. hell it would scrap out for more than 50 bucks... I was just wanting to get an idea of what tools I should snag to get the job done. I will have limited time, and wanted to be out of these peoples hair as fast as possible.

dave1123

As I said, those control arm bolts can be a PITA. I know one guy that used a sawzall to cut thru the control arms because that was the easiest way to get it out. I don't remember if they have weldnuts on the brackets or not. If not, you can drive out the bolts with a punch and a BMFH. If it has welded nuts, it gets dicey. In that case, you have to cut the bolt on both sides of each bushing with a hack saw. If there is any such thing as a battery powered sawzall, that would be the way to go. Just bring more than one battery.

If you're just going to take the brakes, remember the ABS sensors and tone rings. Also, the parking brake is inside the rear rotor and you'll need the hardware.

codykrr

my xj is non abs. so no worries there. thanks.

Bustedback

You can have that axle out in no time if you use a sawzall, just cut the control arms and sway bar links,unhook the parking brake cables, and snip the brake hose.

andrewmp6

Yeah if you can cut everything out it won't take no time to get out.I would unhook the e brake cable but cut everything else in my way.

dave1123

He already said he has no power at the site. Is there such a thing as a battery powered sawzall and where can he rent one?

codykrr

Yeah dewalt and various other companies make battery operated sawzals. There expensive. Ill figure it out tomorrow in the am when I get to where it is at. Hopefully it wont be to bad. Thanks

codykrr

just an update:

had that rear end out in an hour and a half, that included clean up loading and making sure I didnt forget any tools. wasnt bad at all. ended up taking the lower control arms too and just removed them from the frame, and took the trac bar off the frame as well. I was expecting a bunch of rust seized nuts and bolts, but to my surprize everthing came out almost too easy!

thanks for the help.