Coolchange

The trans in my 93 zj 2wd has finally had enough, or so it seems. Ya I know they're crap and I guess I'd agree with that, as it only has a little over a 1/4 million miles on it.
So heres were I'm at. It went into having to shift it manually mode a while ago.(Stays in 3rd) So I knew I had impending issues. Now it starts and moves but after a little while it quits moving. Sometimes when you shift it, it has a ratcheting sound like its trying to engage. Shut it off and let it cool and you can move it again for a little bit. When it works it seems to go into gear good and doesn't slip. So I'm thinkin solenoids, Thanks to all the threads on here, So I drop the pan and it looks like you have to drop the valve body to get the solenoids out? Is this a can of worms?(pulling the valve body?) I'm trying to fix it with a lick and a promise if I can right now, until I can get a trans for it.
So my main ???s are..
If I pull the body are 73 springs and ***** going to shoot everywhere?..
Is this a reasonable fix to get just another month or 2 out of it until I can step up, or am I dreaming?
What are the interchangabilities with this trans from year to year, or where can I go to find out. (I've already tried)

99 Purple XJ

I dont think you have the 42re if yours is an early 93 GC you could have the AW4 take a look again and confirm its the 42 re not the AW4

Coolchange

42re

ol"blue

All '93's and very early '94 ZJs came with the AW4 trans, then they switched to the 42RE. If yours has the 42RE a PO has converted it over.

Beans

My 93 GC 4.0L also has a a 42RE trans. PO was the OO (orginial Owner) and he says no trans swap.

pwb

From Wikipedia


Models that used the AW4:

• 1987–2001 Jeep Cherokee (XJ) 4.0 L
• 1993–1993.5 Jeep Grand Cherokee (ZJ) 4.0 L

ol"blue

I guess the info I had is wrong then, sorry.

ct67_72

I had a 93 with a 42re.
you need to pull the dipstick and see what the oil looks like.
having to shift it manually should have told you something off the bat, you would think maybe you would have not driven it more after that. but anyway, the problem you describe, at least when it stops moving after its been running, is most likely caused by debris in the pan.
Something has failed and the material from it is being sucked up into the filter plugging it after it has run for long enough to do so.
once it stops, and cools, the material falls from the filter and settles in the pan, so it is able to pump fluid again, and will move until this cycle repeats.
Pulling the valve body is going to do you no good. (which you dont have to do to change solenoids) These transmissions are mainly mechanical. if you put it in manual low, it should move, whether the solenoids are good or bad. they are assisting in controlling pressure, but there is no solenoid that controls clutch apply other than overdrive and lockup.
So it sounds like you have a major trans problem and are looking most likely at a rebuild.
Have you checked codes?
You can drop the pan and see what kind of material is in it, if you do post some pics.

Coolchange

Thanks for the responce. YA there is a lot of crap in the pan. I had the thing serviced a whiile ago, flushed and filter. ( my Father in Laws Idea, He likes to flush them. Me, never done it. He was the OO) Never had a burnt smell. But I knew I was in for a rebuild, just trying to post pone it for maybe a couple of weeks. ( Dont really want to part with the 15- 1700 right now) It just looked like you had to drop the valve body to get the harness out so I could check the solenoids easier. But if they dont completely control it, then I guess it doesn't matter. Like I said, its got 280+ on it so that must be some kind of record for a 42re from what I read, and I not complaining, I just dont want to spend the $ on a $1200 car. Thanks again, you at least saved me the $ on the solenoids even if they tested out bad.