XJwonders

My girlfriend just traded her 98 xj for a 00 WJ.
Specs on it, 4.0 engine with 242 transfer case. Not sure on the transmission though. 30/35 axles

There's a few problems with it.
The heat only works in defrost, I read that it's a common problem with the WJs. There's a kit that u can purchase to repair the blend door, have anyone done that? Which kit is best to buy? Is it easy to do?

The 4L is very noisy and feel clunking when engaged. 4H full time and part time feel fine. I don't know anything about this, I'm usually used with my 231 on the XJ.

The engine runs rough. The PO replaced the camshaft sensor, crankshaft sensor, all new plugs and coil packs. He also bought two brand new injectors and 4 used injectors (68k miles on it).
It runs much better when in drive. I'm sure the throttle body needs some serious cleaning. I don't know if the sensors on the throttle body is same as those on XJ's? What else could be the problem affecting rough performance?

Just here to say hi!

dave1123

The tranny is the 42re. My WJ does the clunk when shifting from reverse to drive also, but I haven't been able to find anything wrong yet and I've put about 25K on it myself. It's got 150K on it total.

The blend door is a problem, although mine still works. My problem is the air intake door. It leaks air when turned off so it get the interior hot in the summer. My A/C has a coolant leak so that doesn't work either. If I charge it, it works for about 3 days. I haven't had the time to investigate yet. The kits for the blend door involve cutting into the air box under the glove box and then replacing the piece with glue or RTV.

The 4.0 is a normally noisy engine. Nobody seems to be able the tell me what makes the rattle, but they seem to last forever despite it. Your rough idle may be the IAC motor or a vacuum leak in the MAP sensor hose or CCV valve.
Mine tends to idle a little rough when the engine is warm and the 02 sensor is cold.

My major complaint with the WJ is it's more of a CUV that an SUV. It's more car than truck. For off-road, I liked my ZJ better.

The 242 uses a differential in the t/c when in full-time 4WD and bypasses that in part-time so both axles drive equally. Part-time should NOT be used on dry pavement. Even in snow, you can feel it binding up on hard cornering in part-time.

XJwonders

I am aware of the full time feature on the select-trac transfer case. I don't use part time often, I only noticed the clunking when I was testing the 4x4 in straight driving before doing the trade. The PO says that it has been like that for a while, but never gotten around to having it checked and fixed.

I will check the o2 sensors and the idle control on the TB. I plan to clean entire TB and the butterfly with some TB cleaner. Hopefully that would help.

I ll describe how it runs now. It ALWAYS take two turns of the key to get it started, and it would idle rough until I put it in either drive or reverse then it ll be running a lot more smoother. While driving, it run smooth but there's a little more on the rpms than what I would think it needs.

The transmission was rebuilt at 110k miles, which is a good thing, considering how people think it's a weak transmission compared to the AW4 on the cherokees.

Do you haves recommendation on the blend door kits?

dave1123

Some people have told me the 42re was descended from the old Torqueflite used in the 60's. I don't believe it because the Torqueflite was just about bulletproof. I had a 62 Chrysler 300 with the first aluminum-case Torqueflite, I put a Hemi in front of it and beat the living crap out of it with no problems.

It seems to me Jeeps (ZJ's and WJ's) are built light, by that I mean the power trains don't seem to be built for abuse. The ring gears on the D30 and D35 seem small compared to GM trucks and HP cars I've owned. It seems the D35 is more of a problem on jeeps with the 242 t/c because it gets more usage in 2WD.

My WJ is my DD and used in my business of newspaper delivery. What I've been doing lately, especially in the cold, is shifting to neutral after starting to allow the trans pump to pressurize the system and circulate the fluid thru the radiator during warm-up. Apparently, the clutch seals are getting hard so if I don't do this, it shifts reluctantly until it warms up. Also, I've been told not to kill a rearward roll by shifting to drive because it puts too much stress on the forward clutches. The only problem I have with it now is the lock-up solenoid. I'll change it in the spring when I do a filter change. It had a T-Tech flush at 120K just before I bought it. They also tell me the 46re used behind the V8's is more robust, but takes a lot of changes to mate it with the 4.0.

That clunk doesn't seem to be there when it's on the lift, and I haven't been able to locate it by walking around it while someone shifts it so what it is IDK.

A couple of weeks ago, I had a rear axle seal leak, so I replaced both bearings and seals and inspected the diff. There was no spauling on the gears and the contact pattern seemed perfect.

Welcome to the world of the Grand.

XJwonders

Ok, so I just took the throttle body out and removed all sensors on it, then cleaned it real good with throttle body cleaner, even inside the nooks and crannies. Cleaned the tip on the idle control sensor.

Put everything back on, and started up, still idling little rough. Is the idle air control sensor the same as those on XJs?

How come there's a big bulky plastic thingy over the throttle body that connects to the air filter box. What is it for? There's none on the XJs.

dave1123

Again, I've been told it's a resonance chamber to silence the intake sound or make it more "pleasant?" I know that Toyota spent millions trying to figure out why Honda was selling better. The research determined the sound of the engine had something to do with it, so they added resonance chambers to the intake system and their sales doubled! Fact or fiction, IDK. BTW, don't ever tell a Lexus owner that he's actually driving a high priced Toyota. It could come to blows!

Yes, electronic traction control is great, but it's just something more to fix. I'm old school and would rather know the limits of my vehicle and work with it rather then rely on electronics. My Jeep I can fix. Your Subaru probably will need dealer service if the traction control fails.

I've also heard the FED wants all vehicles produced after 2015 to come equipped with automatic braking systems. What happens when this forward looking sensor becomes covered with dirt or ice? They also want all vehicles by 2040 to be self driving or not be allowed on the interstates. Just more government control of your life.

Now I getting into politics so I'd better shut up!