dnuccio

im sure im beating a dead horse with this post, but i cant find anything helpful by searching.

whatever i do, i cannot get my jeep to run at a reasonable temperature. the ENTIRE cooling system is brand new. new 3 row all metal radiator, new fan clutch, new 160* thermostat, new water pump, and new hoses. i suspected my factory gauge wasnt reading correctly, so i installed an Equus water temp gauge. normal freeway driving, temps are getting as high as 230. i dont know what to do.
theres nothing that could be blocking airflow to the radiator, except 4 smallish offroad lights on my bumper. but that shouldnt make a difference at freeway speeds.

i have been getting an intermittent CEL, using the key trick i found that its showing code 32, egr system malfunction. could this have something to do with my hot running conditions?

another idea i had was the temp sensor for the PCM. if that sensor is reading incorrectly, it could cause the PCM to adjust the fuel trims too lean, correct? and that would cause a hot running condition.

im open to all suggestions at this point. ive even bought a bottle of that "water wetter" from the auto part store. on the bottle it claims 20* cooler running temps. bull****.

pwb

is it realy that hot? Do you have temp sender in back and a sensor in the front? If you have that, when it shows 230, turn of the engine and measure the ohm on the sensor in the front.

Willys55

the sensor on the rear of the head is for the dash gauge and the front is for the ecm.

pwb

Yes, then he can measure the one in front to see how many ohm that has when the gauge show 230. Mine gauge shows 110-115 celsius, but the one in front shows correct ohm as it is 90 celsius. I have replaced the sender 3 times, measured the gauge and thats correct. It have two times shown correct temperatur for some seconds, that was when i did a hard left turn. I think theres two possible reasons for this, bad design in the head so the temperatur where the sender is is hige or some cable thats bad, but then i should have been able to reproduce the correct temperatur when i try to move on the cables? I have had the head out and checked if there was god flow where the sender is, and it was god flow, i have removed the frost plug on the back of the head to see if there was something to see, but it was ok. The place where the sender is make the sender very close to the exhoust port so maybe that have something to say?

Conclusion:
If he measure correct ohm in front (if he has two sensors/senders), then he can drive without any concern, or?

dnuccio

I have the 5.2 in my ZJ. both temp sensors are on the front of the intake manifold.

dnuccio

heres an idea

a did the 703 injector swap a little while ago. according to a post i read on jeepforum, the 703 injector flows 21.5 lb/hr at 39psi. the stock 1995 5.2 injector flows 24.6lb/hr at 39 psi. so the 703 injectors flow 3.1 lb/hr less than the stockers. i think this is causing a slightly lean running condition, thus causing my warm engine temps. sound about right? im gonna put my stockers back in and see what happens

Bustedback

I understand what you're thinking, but the injectors won't make a difference. The O2 sensors will measure the the exhaust and the PCM will adjust the injector on time to correct the air/fuel ratio. A bigger injector will cause the PCM to shorten the on time in order to maintain the correct ratio. No change to your issue.

dnuccio

hmm didnt think of that.
Do you know the details of this code 32 im getting? Could that cause it to run hot?

Bustedback

If the EGR is not functional the combustion chamber temperatures will be higher.

dnuccio

really? is there really any way to tell if the EGR is working? without the DRBII of course.

Bustedback

Put a vacuum pump on the EGR valve nipple. With the engine running at idle, give the vacuum pump a few squeezes, the engine should stumble and stall. If that checks out, put a vacuum gauge on the EGR vacuum solenoid output nipple and go for a drive . There should be no vacuum at idle or on acceleration, only during cruise.
I'm talking about a Mighty-Vac hand operated pump, not a vacuum pump the is used for A/C work.