High frequency brake/drivetrain vibration
#1
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Year: 2004
Model: Grand Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
High frequency brake/drivetrain vibration
Only just noticed on the way into work this morning, as I decelerated down a highway offramp from about 60. When I hit the brakes, and only then, I got a vibration, but not what you get from warped rotors-which I have already. I would describe it alittle more as the feeling you get when your brakes are wet-or maybe even the feeling you get when you hit the rumble strips on the edge of certain highways. But they stop as always. ABS operates properly, no lights.
It does happen at lower speeds, but is less noticeable. And is not noticeable with lighter pedal pressure. Reproduced behavior several times since, both in 2WD and 4FT.
It does seem to be coming exclusively from the front, but I could be wrong, it is not noticeable in the steering wheel. I did crawl underneath it this afternoon, checked both driveshafts for loose joints and steering linkage is all tight. I did find the clamp on the tie-rod end of the steering damper loose enough to slide side to side and spin on the tie-rod, and I figured, ah this must be it, with the warped rotors, this thing could shake in a different way! So I tightened it and drove it, no change. Nothing visually seems to be out of place, took the front wheels off. Gonna look into it tomorrow much more, but I get a suspicion this might NOT be a brake issue. Anyone have any thoughts?
It does happen at lower speeds, but is less noticeable. And is not noticeable with lighter pedal pressure. Reproduced behavior several times since, both in 2WD and 4FT.
It does seem to be coming exclusively from the front, but I could be wrong, it is not noticeable in the steering wheel. I did crawl underneath it this afternoon, checked both driveshafts for loose joints and steering linkage is all tight. I did find the clamp on the tie-rod end of the steering damper loose enough to slide side to side and spin on the tie-rod, and I figured, ah this must be it, with the warped rotors, this thing could shake in a different way! So I tightened it and drove it, no change. Nothing visually seems to be out of place, took the front wheels off. Gonna look into it tomorrow much more, but I get a suspicion this might NOT be a brake issue. Anyone have any thoughts?
#2
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Year: 2004
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Nothing else loose or out of place. Cleaned front pads in case they may have been contaminated, but it didn't change anything, which I figured. As I drove it again, and thought about it, I am now pretty confident it's one or both of the front hub bearings. Guess I will keep this thread updated, maybe it will be useful to someone down the line.
#3
Old fart with a wrench
That steering damper thingy did the same thing on my 2000 WJ. Mine got loose enough to slide off the coupling and extend into my right front rim causing a grinding sound on left turns and restricted full lock turns to the right. Tightened 2 bolts, end of story.
IDK if you have the Akabono or Teves calipers, but with the Teves, make sure your pad clips are installed properly.
Some people have a lot of trouble with warped rotors on the WJ and they say the Akabono calipers are better. I've got the Teves on mine and haven't had any brake problems in 140K. My thought, and mine alone, is the Teves are larger and the added mass soaks up more heat from the rotor, thus helping to prevent warping. JMHO.
IDK if you have the Akabono or Teves calipers, but with the Teves, make sure your pad clips are installed properly.
Some people have a lot of trouble with warped rotors on the WJ and they say the Akabono calipers are better. I've got the Teves on mine and haven't had any brake problems in 140K. My thought, and mine alone, is the Teves are larger and the added mass soaks up more heat from the rotor, thus helping to prevent warping. JMHO.
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Fairly certain I have the Akebono; everything that I have read says they are, and the outline diagram of 'Akebono' pads matches what's on the Jeep. Honestly, I've never had a vehicle that hasn't warped rotors at one time or another. Probably got alot to do with the summer afternoon thunderstorms here. Hell, I had a '99 2500 Ram, rebuilt front end, including new brakes and the expensive rotors, and only months later they were waved. Couldn't tell ya when it happened, though.
I am beginning to feel the vibration while slowing down, while NOT on the brakes, so pretty much convinced the front hubs are done. Should have my new hubs, rotors & pads by the weekend.
I am beginning to feel the vibration while slowing down, while NOT on the brakes, so pretty much convinced the front hubs are done. Should have my new hubs, rotors & pads by the weekend.
#5
Old fart with a wrench
In all the years I've owned disc brake cars, I've never had a warped rotor. Grooved, yes. Cracked, yes. Toasted blue, yes. Never warped.
#6
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Replaced both front hubs, plus pads & rotors. No more noise or vibration. Driver's side hub was noticeably loose, passenger's side still seemed ok. It was difficult to tell that it would have been one side or the other. I had the money and time so I did both. Hope this helps someone else down the line.
#7
Old fart with a wrench
It's good practice to ALWAYS do both sides, especially with brakes. I've been known to put used pads on one caliper until I could buy the parts for a complete brake job, but that was a desperation move. I needed the car!
I've seen too many cases of guys replacing one rear wheel bearing only to do the other one a week later. It stands to reason if one side is shot, the other isn't far behind.
When Chrysler used torsion bars, that was a given! BTW, an old torsion bar makes a HELL of a prybar.
I've seen too many cases of guys replacing one rear wheel bearing only to do the other one a week later. It stands to reason if one side is shot, the other isn't far behind.
When Chrysler used torsion bars, that was a given! BTW, an old torsion bar makes a HELL of a prybar.
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